Zedrally

So in your opinion, OEM-replacement Kayaba's which you mention would be OK for moderate dirt work?

If the engine ran before you adjusted it, I would suggest that you adjust the cam sproket back to where you had it and see if the engine fires. If it does then adjust the sproket in the opposite direction to what you originally did. THis 15 degree adjustment is obsolutly critical. Good luck

Probably because there are better conversions around?

Similar price wise to Koni's, if there an air shock then it would be a better investment. You mention the production run requirement [20], aren't they available individually from the distributer?

Are these gas shocks? Are the springs usable with stock 240 struts or do you require a modified strut for the extra clearence?

Absolutely critical. Do yourself a favour and get a Factory Service Manual. It will pay back it's purchase price many times over in the future.

U Joints will clunk. Wheel bearings sound like a rrrrrrr and will change pitch with speed. My bet is wheel bearings.

The Factory Manual states no sealer is necessary. Although, in actual practice I would recommend using high temp sealer on the exhaust. The exhaust manifold is prone to developing a "slight"warp and sealer is cheap insurance against that posssible and very annoying exhaust leak that hampers the z series. [sometimes]!

Fantastic, the power of the club has been proven again. Not only have we started a thread and condensed an amazing amount of information on 1 piece of equipement, I've also been able to locate the supplier. aRCH-Z, many thanks again, I'll head past Zworx tomorrow for a price. PS. I had thought of spraying it black this time!

Sound's like a belly flop to me. There was never any attempt to change anyone's opinion on this, merely to highlight the differences between HS & HLS models, rather than to paint all S deriviates into one bundle. MOM

Gav, I think you have a couple of seperate problems which have occured at the same time. To solve you no click, no nothing, my best advice is to check your baterry terminals. I had a similar problem last night when I left work, although now I know what the "problem "is as it's happened many times to me. I have fitted a screw time battery cuttoff switch and every time it's been the contact. All I need to do is unscrew the switch nut, clean[sand] both sides and replace. Solve this problem first, then look at you next problem. Unfortunatly, I have no experiance with electronic ignition, but a educated guess is a problem with the module?

Back in'79 I was faced with exactly the same problem. After much head scratching I rang the Service department of the largest Nissan dealer I could find and asked whether there was a special tool for this. There reply was to use a ring spanner, this I had tried but was unable to get the head over the nut. [sidchrome has a good 45degree bend and will not reach]. When asked how they managed it they replied that they used a Stahl Willy [not sure if the willy is spelled correct]. So off I went and brought one, which I still have to this day, reserved especially for uses in which a very slender ring spenner is required. It has the slightest bend which is all that is required for easy dismantling of the T/S. Oh and no bloody knuckles from using this...... HIH

I'll have to chime in here and ruffle some feather of the Left Hookers. There is no Series 1 or 2. Just early and late model 240's. As noted there is no cut off date as the S30 series and derivitaives was in a constant state of modification. Possibly one could concede that the last of the first 500 LHD was the end of a "series", that however would only be true for the LHD market as the RHD market was different again! There is a wealth of knowledge in a thread started by KATS early this year and hopefully it may dispel this series 1 or 2 myth once read.

Last One. Does it help anyone?

From a differnt side.

Thanks everyone for all your help. I never realised that there where so many devoloped over the years. I went digging for photo's of the zed last night and found these 3. This is what I need to replace!

God that took hours to downlod..... No, that's notthe one either. Front extends to far and sides are straight. Anyway at least where getting all the spoilers into one thread! [all except the one I need]........

Hi halz, It's pretty close, then again without seeing it front on it's difficult to see if it has the dimple? Any idea as to it's name?

Hi C, Sorry no photo and nothing left of the original. The best I can describe is it's very similar to the on 26th posted less the dimple in the nose and bolt to the apron rather than replacing it. MOM

Has to be an earth problem. Check the earth strap from the body to the battery. You didn't mention if the light circuit has been upgraded? If your running relays and have taken the positive directly from the altenator then you will experiance dimming lights. HIH

Can't see why not, might decrease you're capacity somewhat but I guess you're circuit racing anyway. Wouldn't reccommend it for Rally purpose or general driving. Best use would be motorkhana that I can see. If capacity is a problem look at modiying the fuel outlet to multi pickup, it is infinately easier to do than to baffle.

You would need to modify the tank outlet. Possiblly by adding a multi point pickup to the fuel outlet or baffle the tank or use a collapsable fuel cell.

Thanks for the link, I had a pretty thorough look thru it with no luck. The spoiler that 26th spotted is the closest I've seen. After a bit of thought I'm pretty convinced it would be a Ozzie AM spoiler produced by a company called Alpha Fibreglass. With the attachment to the front apron being more in the style of a BodyKit rather than a replacement for the apron, it suggests AM. Any one down here that has any more details, last I heard was that 1 owner got locked up and the other headed north!

This is close , the difference is there is no holding clips, the fibreglass just continues [flows] back alond the front apron so the spoiler when looked at from below is "V "shaped, one vee being the mount to the apron. Second difference is the dimple in the nose. The one I'm trying to replace has no dimple. Thanks a lot for your help, any idea of it's actual name? Maybe someone else can chime in here with further info as we are getting very...close.

Unfortunatley, doesn't show the type I'm trying to replace. Someone mentioned the name stone guard, anyone with any further info?