Zedrally

Depending on year, there are 3 differnt starting methods. 1. Models not equiped with electric pump. Pull Choke and crank. 2. Models equiped with pump. Turn ignition listen to pump, when the fuel bowls are full the sound of the pump changes. Then pull choke and crank. 3. EFI...Don't know as I don't have????? The 240[No pump] takes a few turns to start. I reason that this is due to fuel evaporation in the bowls after the last journey. It can be tempermental on cold mornings. The 260[Electric Pump], generally fires first time, I guess this is the best reason for adding an Electric Pump. No point pumping the accelerator as other have noted there is no accelerator pump! Hope it helps.

Does anyone have a collection of photos of ALL the different Spoiler Types used on the S30 series and derivites up to 78? MOM & Bar

That's one close shave, how did the rest of the rally go?

From your reply it's obvious that the choke is your problem. Whilst you can still drive without it being attached, I strongly advise you to either re-attach them or replace them if they are missing. This will also increase your fuel economy!

That's my next question. I must be a dinosaur as I have no knowledge on where to find these or create them?

Oh OZLIME, that Avtar:love:

Sorry to hear about your problem, especially if you had an un-cracked dash. The news that you don't want to hear is that there is no solution to your problem except to have the dash re-covered. One of the club sponsors offers an excellent service, click on the sponsors forum for more details. Good Luck

Might be the Uni's on the half shaft's.

Have you checked your chokes linkages?

Common problem, I've got the same on the 260. Reason being the manifold developes a warp [very slight] but enough to cause a leak. The solution is to use silicone gasket stuff [it's orange, can't remember the name]. This should be applied on the gasket faces. You could try applying it around the offending area without undoing the manifold. Let me know how you go as it might be an easy fix for a problem that I have.

Any suggestions as to which inserts would be better suited to mild dirt work. Forget about spending 6k, I could have brought a complete setup for 12K, logbooked complete with an impressive rally history if I wanted to spend that amount of money. MOM & Bar

Depending on what you want to polish, I suggest you try any Electroplaters in your local area or if you feel adventurious grab a angle grinder buy a mop and some tripoli and save some money. [Mop is a cloth wheel made togo on a tapered spindle]. [Tripoli is a cutting compound available in a bars]. MOM & Bar

Don't forget the Gold Gear knobs from Kal........

Try Hollywood.

There has been much speculation on this for quite a long period now. Everone has assumed it has been sold, perhaps it hasn't as there was never any pressure on the owners to sell. Consider the possibility that it's just been withdrawn from public view by the Corbett's to end any speculation on it's possible future. My informed bet is that it's still sitting in a garage somewhere in the Dandenongs whatching time go by!

Absolutely agree with you on the Oil filled damper. Can you reccomend a air one? MOM & Bar

No.

There is nothing wrong with a 2+2. I've got 2 and my partner loves driving the going one. Realisticly, the're great to get out for a weekend, plenty luggage space, auto/air etc makes a great weekend touring car. If you have a couple of kids then they won't be left out either. On the other hand if you want a fang either on a circuit or in the dirt then nothing can beat a 2 seater. Happy family, happy car. Get it MOM

No.

Sort of the opposite of my carbs, come to a stop and the revs go high (1100). I thought that was because of high float level?

My guess it's electrical. You don't exactly make it clear whether you did all these changes before the problem or whether the problem "just" appeared and you've started with the fuel filter [good idea]. My bet at this stage is points/capacitor. HIH

Can't recommend Koni's. Got them set up in my car and it's a total disarster. Each visit to the forest has cost me a re-build! They can be set up but I don't have the money to spend [blow] until someone gets it right. It's been suggested that 260z Struts are far superior to the standard 240 strut. I intend to try this setup next. Regretting doing the changeover in the first place as I'm over 2k out of pocket on this so called upgrade. If anyone has any further advice on how to set Koni's up for Dirt rallying, I'm all ears. HIH

Kyle, I 've got a feeling that this nut is meant to be staked once torqued up. I had a problem with my g/box in the late 70's with a similar problem, turned out that the stake had either worked loose or was never fitted! Cost me a new gearbox......bugger.....

Sorry, this doesn't come out on a cut & paste. If anyone wants the file e-mail me with your address.