Zedrally

Huh! I knew you couldn't let that one pass....... Further proof of the RHD Theory..... MOM

Don't want to be a wet blanket Ash, but you've got buckleys chance of convincing the Historic Commission . Save youre money as many have thrown a lot away trying or if you really want to run triples in competition legally, then come over to Historic Rallying and run PRC. Cheers MOM [knighted iIke of the Mire, after the last bogging]!

Better still, get him to join this group!

Interesting that they would crash test a shell only? I would have thought a complete car [motor, gearbox etc] in the front end would give a better indication of how the unibody withstands a headon? Wonder at what speed the front folded in this pic?

I remember reading that the oil pump should be primed before fitting.

Double Blah from me as well. How the ZX can be equated to the 240/260/280 has me lost!

Under hard acceleration? Sounds more like pinging? Check timing or use a higher octane fuel.

Bet the shell has just been sand blasted!

Absolutely not available as an option.

POwer windows became available in ZX models. It is possible that the 73 has been modified, I remember a thread about power mirrors from ZX posted a while back [may have been on the mail list].

Dizzy caps are different, Had problems with Electronic Dizzies, so I chucked it out and went back to points.

HAve you checked for spark?

Gav, Have you been following the Alternator, Condenser, Ideas thread? You both appear to have similar problems, perhaps all is in the capacitor. I had a similar experiance, possibily worse as the engine idled OK but cut out under load. All was traced back to the cap. IN this case it had a break in the little wire and would be intermitent in use. MOM

MY guess is that it's in the bolt you found. In other words that conector to the plastic is/should be insulated from the dizzy body. Somehow you've created a short and that explains why no activity at the coil side. IMHO you may be better raiding another nissan for a replacement dizzy or send out yours for a re-build. MOM

Not surprisingly my 260 is difficult to start as well. I've still got the original flat tops and found it easier to start after the fuel pump has filled the carbie bowls. Turn the ignition on and listen to the pump, it will start clicking. When the bowls are full it changes sound. At this point I consider the carbie's full and use the choke to prime the engine. Hope this helps. MOM

AZ, if you need an accurate gauge then you will need to ditch the Factory Gauge. Whilst all the theory is spot on, what most people forget is the actual construction of the gauge itself. It is not direct reading nor does it fuction as a normal meter. The needle indications are processed [if thats the correct word] bu the heating of a bi-metal metal strip via a heating coil. The fluctuation of the strip then moves the needle. Consequently an in-accurate reading of coolent temp is obtained in hot climates due to the ambient temp inside the car. Most Zed owners will attest to the in-accuracy of the factory gauge and take any reasonable reading around the centre as "normal". Why not just add a digital gauge. There are many kits out in the market that offer an accurate gauge at a reasonable price. HIH MOM

Yep, thats the one! Snake Oil that actually worked [for a few years]!

Strange you haven't lost all water if the heads cracked? All indicators are pointing to it unfortunately. There is a possible solution, however, there is a propriety head repair can of hope available. The name escapes me at present [i have no doubt someone on this board will remember the name], but in retrospect your problem was my problem a couple of years ago. My 240 occaisionally dropped all it's water, usually [always] leaving a big white cloud in it's wake, [very odd as when filled it could run for days or weeks without any indication of trouble, probably indicating a hair line crack] in desperation I tried the can of hope and you could have knocked me over with a feather as it worked for 2 years until another fateful day and it gave a slight lurch coupled with strange engine events [can't remember exactly what but it was weird] signalled the end of the can of hope. Inspection of the head showed that it was a basket case and it was a cheaper option to re-build a good used head. If you do use the can of hope, make sure you follow the instructions, as it DOES NOT work with any coolent in the system. Good luck.

Valves broken in cylinder sounds more like a tat tat tat until no more tat! Trust me you'll know immediately this has happened, the sound once heard is unmistakable. As you've been able to re-start the engine and I gather you're not hearing a tat tat tat then I would doubt a broken valve and I would doubt the gasket theory. Pull the plugs and let us know what condition the're in. Perhaps it's all in the timing ,have you recently checked it?

Blue smoke? Not wanting to be a wet blanket, but it doesn't sound like a head gasket. White smoke is associated with a blown head or gasket. The bang worries me also? Was it more like a backfire? Have you pulled the plugs? THis will give a better indication of the condition of the head/gasket.

Mike, I write this as we both head for cover. MOMLOL Sometimes I think that it would be more appropriately named the L series engine and subsequent derivites"club". But who really cares, this is one friendly, harmonious group of like minded fanatics with very similar thoughts, be it a zed or any derivitive of the L series. Life's to short to be arguing over trivialities! MOM

Alan, the Aussie market had no other choice, zeds came as a 5 speed only with the only option being the Sports boxes. So it might be confusing to say that all other markets got the choice as there was no choice! MOM

LRP for me, OPtimax when I want to fang about!

Steve, Keep the list of write-offs. You can never have "too much" data on RHD zeds, whether they're drivable or not. How many do you have on the registar up to date?

Bikini Site? Where?????