Zedrally

Looking at it now it doesn't really seem to be that interesting, although I'll hold out on the crusher for a little while yet. I guess one need to do a little bit more digging to get the correct answer. The compliance plate was a 1976 plate, the rereg refered to occured sometime in 91/92. Whats confusing as to the whereabouts of the car in between production [73/74] to compliance [76]. If it was a '73-build it would have to have been in the last days of late December, I reckon. And its definitely an Export model GRS30 isn't it? Not a 2-litre Japanese-market model with an L26 installed later on in its life? Model is a GRS 30 so it definately was export, i expect domestic models would have been RS30 [am I right there]. As you've previously said, strange things happened on the production line this would hav eto be one of the strangest! [wonder if it spent 2 years in a crate being shipped around awaiting a home]?

To change the distributor is a bit of an overkill at this point. Depending on model the capacitor maybe on the outside of the disrtibutor. Look for a half thumb size thing with 1 wire attached or lift off the distributor cap, the capacitor is opposite the points. Change either one and cross fingers.

I should have added, any other 73 HS30's around on this board? Just reply to this with your details.

Just for info. GRS 30 - 016122 L26 168542 Reg as a 77 260z 2+2

Hi Ben, These are mine HS30-103305 [pretty close to yours] L24 083870 same colour originally, manual.

HI, as some you may be aware i was given a 260Z 2+2 as a parts car last week. After we picked it up we discovered it was a 1973 260Z 2+2. Now, it's generally thought that this can't be as production wasn't started on 2+2's until later. Having asked around I have now been forwarded this answer.

Gee & Ben, I also have a 73 240 [not this thing we're discussing], I'll post the numbers tomorrow and I'll split the thread as I didn't mean to contaminate your original.

Alfa, as I wrote in the earlier post, I have requested more info. I'm really kicking myself now for not taking more notice yesterday, but after moving it and all the other bit's that came with it it was the last thing on my mind. I know what I saw and this was witnessed by another knowledgable zed head. In fact I kept saying to him, this can't be, but it is. I have asked him to scan the reg paper and send down. Don't know when he'll get the message, so we need be patiant. Certainly will open up a can of worms won't it!

Hows this for a can of worms. I think I'll rename it to a 1973 2+2 with a 260 engine!! I'll await the info from the farm. [have sent carrier pigeon]!

We had a few ales over this late yesterday. It is a 73 and the numbers do match. I've asked Jim to take a walk down to the bottom paddock and double check just in case! Like you I'm baffled as to how or why this occured, one possible scerario is that they ran one assemby line for 2+2's and stopped when they had enough. [thats a 3 year supply, if one accepts this argument, the other may be colour, who knows]? This would explain why it sat in Japan for 3 years before being sold. Any one for any more?

Just remembered that the Numbers did match.

Never wrote them down! We pulled the car out of one paddock, floated in a southerly direction for 2 hours and 4 pub stops yesterday and where to buggered to write down all the numbers at the end of the day. I really wasn't that interested as I only picked it up fro parts, but now I'm starting to think otherewise. Unfortunately, the paddocks 3hrs form where I live so I''ll try to get the numbers by mental telepathy.

Alfa, We changed to the metric system around 72~73. Thats why you have some speedos in mph and kph. My 240 was mph while the 260 came in kph. Simple swap from a donor and it helps if you have small hands! Now something that I think is interesting. I was given a 260 2+2 on the weekend, not the best but ceratainly great as a donor/parts car. What is interesting is its a 73 model # 10833 first registered in 76! Would this be one of the first 2+2 made? Hope Alan has his radar turned on! MN

Book value is actually much higher than asking price. Immaculate ones do & have changed hands often around 10~12k. Don't underestimate the value of outstanding 240/60's even 2+2's

Try replacing the capacitor in the distributor.

Just as an aside, is it possible to have a universal time [GMT] displayed somewhere on the front. May be on top of the shout box? I've noticed a few times times appearing in the shout box and have no idea as to the time zone they may be in?

Starnge as it may seem, 25 was the right amount for the day. ie The tread the was at the top when I left work, was usually the last when I started FRED up the next day!

Nice clean up Mike, Could you restore action in the forums to where it was....please Otherwise I'll spend more time doing thge last 100 search more than reading threads!

As we have started this topic, does anyone know who made them, were they every fitted as standard, and does anyone have any photo's? Also we're aware of the front plugs, but exactly where are the switch terminators, I know they must be somewhere posibily in the consul loam, but I've never come across them?

George, If your only doing 8k km a year & its a club car check out Classic Car Insurance, it's owned by the RACV & NMRA. [not sure if that's the right name, might be Vintage & Vetren] You'll be blown out by the quote.

Great walk thru ED, I would just add one more thing. Before doing anything, first set the engine so #1 cylinder is at Top Dead Centre. This will make it so much easier in setting the point gap later and remember the firing order on the distributer is anticlockwise.

sorry, when I wrote "cap" I meant capacitor, not distributor cap.

Just on a related point. Another Zed owner friend of mine commented that when he changed his points he ALWAYS changed the cap. I guess they can deteriorate over time and fail because of this.

any auto parts store will have one. But.....before you do, remove the cap and check the wire. They are prone to breaking near the top and leaving the insulation intact. If this is the case you can save yourself money by soldering the wire back to the top of the cap, finish off by securing the wire back around the body of the cap with electrical tape [this will prevent the wire from fatigue failure as happened], a drop of silicon sealant over your solder join and that's that. Lots of luck, and keep us posted on your progress.

Good question. Without it you have little or no spark, so my guess is that it act as a charge to boast the coil? Seeking help from another member with the theorical answer!