Zedrally

Yep, same problem occured when I changed over to IR, Just to make sure, pull the reg plug and see what happens!

Sounds all to familiar, doesn't it 2many! Point gap at .5mm is OK, check the firing order remembering it's anticlockwise on the distributor. If you don't want to go loopy search for treads on Firing Order. :stupid:

Sounds like you need 2 cars Alan. One in and 1 out!!! Nothing like a stroll between.

I just had a phone call from a guy who wants to sell a 260z 2+2. Was asking $1500, but said he would seriously look at $1k just to free up the yard! Let me know and I'll pass on the details.

Silly question, but where are the reverse lights?

Well I finally succeded in solving the mysterious problem of not being able to start my 260Z. For those of you who hadn't followed the tread a couple of months ago, it was traced done to a broken wire in the capacitor, the insulating plastic hadn't broken but the wire inside had and was causing a mysterious miss which culminated in a final cestation of engin e noise. Non the less after changing the points, rotor, plugs and leads, it was the only part that hadn't been changed and was identified as the guitly component. But a strange thing occurred, [sorry if this is becoming a saga], when I plugged in the ignition leads I followed the firing order as given in Haynes. Yes you may have guessed, I didn't fire so I left the beast for a few weeks and yesterday decided to have another look. This time taking the easy way by cross referencing with my 240, I was amazed to find the firing order as 1,4,2,5,3,6 Of course being very secptical about this, I checked and cross checked and eventually copied this to the 260 and wonder of wonders it worked. Now, I went and checked the firing order as given in the 260 factory manual and of course it's given as 1,5,etc. What gives, am I going loopy! has anyone else been faced with this, or can offer an explanation as to how it's occured? :stupid:

Come on Alan, expand our knowledge. What market were these cars destined for?

This just goes to show that there is something new to learn about zed's every day. I remember the use of parking lights in the 60's, however by the 70's most streets where sufficiently illuminated and today I guess there really a relic left over or more correctly they have evolved to be hazard lights. I would hazard a guess that this would be a home market [Japan] delivery as I've never seen on in Aus, nor on the UK delivery zeds that found there way into Aus. Maybe Alan T can enlighten us on this subject.

I'm looking for a pair of 260 struts? LH 240 guard & Extractors.

Bad Luck, Looks like you'll need to unscrew the bolts holding the bonnet down at the front hinge. Incidently, Zeds have rockers, not tappets, these are for pushrod engines! Have no idea about the gearbox, last time I had one make funny noises [260Z, late 70's], I was advised to put a bannana into it and sell the car. This I did and brought a RX7, it was the biggest mistake I ever made.

That begs the question, what's original. On my 240 there metal, I guess Stainless or a variation while on the 260 there black?

Is that bright after the steel wool treatment? What sort of metal finish are you exactly wanting to reproduce?

Run some steel wool over them.

Spray can.

Fwwww, that's a relief, for one moment I had thought you had gone over to the "dark side" and started to pronounce zee!

TRy Galmet Rustpaint Epoxy finish I've used the Silver & it came out OK.

Hey Alfa, That's a LHD, in Australia? What's up or is your location Austria?

Before you go pulling anything apart, firstly get a can of CRC or RP7. Undo the covers protecting the combination switch, then spray the contacts with CRC, work the switch(s) and hopefully your problem will be solved without pulling to much apart!

Well I finally solved it. It was so fustrating that I'm posting the solution that in the unlikely event it may happen to any other poor unfortunate member. It was all caused by the vacuum advance. Just to clarify the situation as all zeds are different, my 260 came with a 280z/x hitachi distributer, so this may not apply to 240's or other 260's with similar symptoms. The wire at the top of the capacitor had actually broken, even though the insulation was intact and a visible inspection showing all to be OK. The cause of this was the vacuum advance, which, when advanced moved the capacitor against the distributor case. This over time caused stress fatigue and eventual breaking of the wire. Very fustrating as a check for spark indicated all to be well [admitadly, the spark was weak] when cranking over but no spark when the engine starts. MN:devious:

Did you solve the problem? My 260's is showing similar problems. Was country driving when it just died. Has spark, flows fuel and I'm bugggered as to why it has just stopped! Replaced filter, new dist cap & rotor, still no go. MN:ermm:

For what it's worth, forget sending e-mails. These guys are all to busy to sit around hitting keys on the keyboard. Jump on the phone and I'm sure you'll get an immediate reply! Just let us all know the result.

Pretty neat! Now that you've started with the pic's, how about the rest. Does the setup still exist? Was it succesfull? What else can you tell us about it?

Sure, Go to post reply and scroll down. Use the attach file feature. MN

Yes, I've replaced it. Now before anyone asks, I'm not exactly what it came out of as I simply asked my mecanic if it could be done, to wit he answered yes and handed me the speedo. Now I also have a 260 and they appear the same [from memory]. I'll take a photo tonight of both and post it tomorrow.

Cuong, Could you upload these photo's to this thread?