Zedrally

I've had the unfortunate (unheard of, according to everyone I've spoken to) experiance of having the rear stub axle snap on the 240. It snapped just below the retaining nut, directly between the washer and campanion flange. The FSM recommends removal using a slide hammer and special holding tool, is there another method of removal? How have other members removed the stub axle when replacing wheel bearings?

Ah, the cause of the stumble finally revelled.... Must replace the ATF with 20W and see the difference! MOM

Just an update and then time to close the thread. Close inspection after removal of the driveshaft revelled the stub axle shaft had actually broken (snapped) off due to fatigue. I'm off hunting around for a rear left strut assembly now......

Whether to chain or not is entirely up to the individial. One important fact that has been overlooked is that the chain must be of non-ferrious material. The original was brass.

An Update.... I had a sleepless night thinking about the root cause of this and after a daylight inspection, it appears that the stub axle retaining nut has worked its way loose and disappeared off the threaded axle allowing the half shaft to slide off the spline. A quick lookup in the parts catelogue and a phone call confirmed availability of the nut and retaining washer which will be picked up this PM. I had decided to fit the nut with the rear suspension still in place, does anyone know any reason why I shouldn't? MOM

Last night on my way home from work, I pulled up at the last set of lights before the short cruise home, lights to green, clutch out and nothing, except a rattle from the rear right. No prizes for guessing that the one of the uni joints had sheared, come loose or something similar, what I hadn't expected was to see the drive shaft had actually popped out from the stut side! In the many years I've been reading messages on this site of knowledge, I have never read of this happening. Have ordered 2 uni's today and will proceed with a re-build over the next day or 2.

I'm with Kyle on this. EFI is my preferred option, although I hadn't considered XKE SU's, I would suspect that there would be few sets of these on the market.

I don't think this is the same car that was featured, I'm sure it was more rounded and was in production.

The Russians have produced a Sports Coupe, saw it on Top Gear last Monday night, wouldn't be it, could it?

I know this may sound stupid, but what exactly do you mean by tuning them? If you have re-built them according to instructions. There is no adjustment that you can make other than idle adjustment. Other adjustments would include balancing, instructions of which are contained in the FSM.

Thanks for the info, I have a back up set of kits, just in case I ever needed them. These I purchased 15 years ago and was interested if they where still available. Obviously, the OEM parts are. Have you re-built your carbs yet?

nup, not possible in my opinion. (that's probably why it was listed)! Turbo with side draft webber is the usual working solution to the turbo problem, the best being FI!

Hi all, I've been following this thread with interest, everyone appears to have similar ideas, not all the same but similar, however no-one has given the factory break-in procedure, does anyone know what or how the engines where run in fresh from the factory?

Maestro, I sure it's an oversight, even the 69 model is missing!

Hi, if your replacing them, do so with round top SU's.....webbers while OK are not ideal for use with zeds unless you go with triples...

It's production release was actually in 1967. RHD versions where available for sale and were brought in Australia in 1967.

Good idea, but won't work if you base it on TSD, (Time, Speed, Distance). Without a fixed reference(s) along the route all that will be achieved is utter confusion and many pissed off drivers. Might I suggest you consider instructions such as drive along this road until you see such & such, then turn left/right/SO etc. The such & such is a fixed reference easy spotted by any driver keepuing his eyes on the road (and traffic).

Hi all, Fascinating and fustrating all of this! One aspect that sticks in my mind is how the "Z" became attached. I can't see it as Project file or whatever "Z", purely because that character (as we have been previously told), does not exist in any of the Japanese written alphabet ( I don't belive alphabet is the correct term to use here, but I'm sure all readers know what I mean). The project file would have been in Japanese, wouldn't it? Still fascinating and I would suspect that Mr. K would have had his finger in it somehow!

Actually, he will be looking for either RLS (2 seater) or GRLS-30 (2+2).

Alfa, you should have also mentioned that the door jam tag is also only found on the HLS models.

128 owners on this board only. Mini Stats show 11,317 users, not really being a maths type, but doesn't that mean only .1% (or is that.01%) of registered members have a S-30 of some description?

You might be able to remove the etching with a slurry of tin oxide and a lambswool buff. We use TO to remove scratches from gemstones, haven't tried glass, but works on quartz.

N42 typed into the search function returned many, many pages of threads. Not sure where to start? Then try search first.

FWIW, I's start by measuring up a ZX targa top and seeing if it's compatible with your 74 260. If it is, then out comes the angle grinder. Yoy will need to get an engineers report, I'd go for it!

Is a Zx a Z?