Zedrally

Water valves and vacuum! Just been there. Check that the vac line is connected to the top of the water valve, your problem won't be in the selector, you have somehow pulled a line off one of the vac operated servo's. Good luck in tracking it down.....

Fine then, produce the data.

I don't see how anyone can deduce age from seat belt numbers. The seat belts fitted to Aussie S-30 where made locally (In Melbourne) & fitted. RS-30 models had the retractor style seat belt, whether they where Aussie made remains to be proven. This whole seatbelt debate/debacle comes from a thread KATS started, which used US (read HLS data) which is not applicable in OZ. FWIW

Have you checked the slave cylinder? This usualy fails before the master.

We all know that. I don't see where any of this is leading?

I think what Mr C is asking when did Nissan stop changing belts from JDM to ADR. The 240's all had the lap type, much IMO was a backward step, otherwise we would have had the roller type, but for some unknown reason (possibly to keep up the Australian content), it was dumped and the buckle/lap belt was subsituted. The roller type was maintained with the 260, whether it was factory fitted or Aussie, I had never considered. Everone to there 260's and check! FWIW MOM

After putting up with clunks, squeeks and other cyclic noises, I had a major dummy spit and took the 260 to a "mates place". Having little time on my hands to do these mechanicals, I decided that it was the only way it was going to get "fixed". Much to my surprise, the unis in the half shafts had actually frozen from lack of use. Replacing the half shafts with used ones in good condition fixed all those evil noises that I had put up with over all those years. FWIW, don't just replace 1 joint, do them all....

Well, there you have it...just when you think you've seen all the Jap Su's, these pop up! Are these 38mm or bigger?

Sorry to hijack the thread, but what have those flat tops come off? Never seen flat tops without an integral float chamber..any info please?

Possibly it may have been that the numbers of G/RS30 models was insufficient to export into OZ and a smaller market that could absorb them was identified as the UK. Nissan backed the wrong horse with the L26 and needed to off load them somehow, that's why/how the RHD Export market never recieved the L28 S-30. Needless to say, every 77 G/RS30 model I've come across has no similarity to another. It was a case of using the bit's and pieces that remained from the L26 G/RS failure to construct anything that remotely looked like a zed! HIH MOM

I'll side with Arne on this. In todays litigus society, eating, drinking or answering phones is highly dangerous and may prove serious if not fatal. These cars where never meant to be luxury cars, just true sports cars. Any attempt to add these offerings would be an insult to the original designers.

I can only feel for you at this time as exactly the same occurred to me several years ago, there is a thread about it somewhere. As to what happened, there is a dowel located in the CAM which locates into the CAM SPROCKET. This has moved out of the CAM into the sprocket and possibly into the oil pan. Hopefully, there is no/little damage to the pistons. You may be able to rebuild the head (get a head shop to do this) or locata a replacement. Good Luck.

I had a similar problem in the zed. It was the capacitor! Recently the problem re-surfaced, knowing what was the problem(so I thought) I replaced the cap, ran well for a day the the cap failed. The only way a cap could fail so quickly is a shortened winding in the coil. New coil and cap and the zed has never run better. It always had a stumble/hesitation that we(read all experts) put down to fuel. Good luck and check the cap and coil.

If there isn't one on the West Coast, then the freight from the East might be as great as shipping from the States!

First off, welcome to the forum. When you say it's very hard to get around, I wonder if you're aware of the search function contained within the forum? It's very easy to use and will supply the answers to your questions. Click on search and for example type in carbs or be more specific and type SU carbs. If the answer to your question isn't contained in the date returned then post a new thread requesting help on your problem, Once again welcome, but help yourself to search initially. Cheers MOM

Miles, There is no argument about "how to fix...", it has been well known here that replacing them(flat tops) with earlier round tops fixs the problem. Roger & yourself should re-read my post as you both seem to have a different view. Flat tops in OZ have ALWAYS been problematic, that is why I'd be interested in how Roger managed to fix a problem that Nissan wasn't able to do?

Headers by themselves will not give you any noticable increase in power. Better to look in other areas first such as polish & porting the head, new cam etc, once you have done these then think about headers for that 1% increase that they give you.

By your own admission one car didn't have the original SU's, hence no problem. in the second case you write that you "went for a drive" with no problem, I certainly wouldn't have expected a problem either with the drive part, it's the subsequent starting after stopping the IS the problem with any flat top SU in 40 degree heat. Oh, before you ask, the cooling system is in perfect condition, new radiator, hoses and head re-condition with little more than 10k since restoration. The asbestos insulation around the fuel rails has however been removed, is yours still intact? The one I had in the late 70's was exactly the same and all other owners that I have spoke to reported similar problems, many of us put up with the problem knowing that after stopping you would not try to re-start the motor within 1-2 hours! Sometimes, it would/will fire up immediately, but that was the exception rather than the rule. Perhaps you have the exception to the rule car which Nissan should have studied to solve the ills of 260 owners? I think Mr. C has the best solution........

Rogersz, you must be joking. I've owned 2 260's and both have the overheating problem in summer. I dread taking my current one out if the temp is over 30. Please tell us/me how you've managed to avoid this problem? The only fix is to change carbs over to 240 "round tops". FWIW, I maintain the originals as the car is in original condition and prefer to keep it that way. Cheers MOM

Sure will fit. Out of interest what colour is it? MOM

The generic version was a stickon. Miles is quite correct in saying that there where 2 versions as I fitted the stick on to my first zed in the late 70's. Whether you like them or not is a preference thing (like stripes)! MOM

All of them! Seriously, they all have the required info, it's just presented in a different manner so that newbies that can't get their head around one explaination, can read a different explanation of the same problem.... Personally, I've never used Chiltons, but have used it to refer to differences in models between 240/260/280. FWIW

Over the past 30 years, I come to the conclusion that ANY manual complements the information required. Just buy them all, as they all contain invaluable material for the beginer "Z" mechanic.

I see to many people with to much spare time on their hands!

? Quoted HP at the flywheel doesn't indicate which is faster!