Zedrally

Sorry, I may have misunderstood what 2many was saying. My interpretation of his reply was that there where limited HLS30 or HS30 editions. I'm aware of S30 versions, not different HL or HS-30 editions.

Without hijacking the thread could you expand on this in a new thread? I've never heard of limited production/edition 240's? Was this something unique to the US?

Damn, it's Friday and I forgot to stand on my head again!

I know you already have the Maxima alt, but for simplicity's sake wouldn't it be easier to obtain an Alt from a Zx. They have the same plug configuration and you don't need to chop up the harness! I picked mine up *2 for $50AUD.

I hope someone is keeping track of these numbers as they all appear to be unique. Anyone found 2 the same, ie brake pedal with same number?

Actually, I wasn't quite sure if Alan wasn't having a lend of us either at first, either by having us standing on our heads or starting the which came first argument in a different vein. So what I took as light hearted [& humerous comments] initially, was just that and had no idea that Alan had taken offence. Back to the Bingo! [after the past few hot days, it's cooled down so nicely today, so I promise to have a look when I get home. Alan,I 'm seeing the one armed man early in the New Year and will check out the 20 or so cars he has, if I get a square head it's all your fault!

Well did the dog catch Xmas Dinner? At least we can rule out 510's. OK any Roadster owners and Prince owners that want to check there cars or maybe a Bluebird or 2? I'll scream if someone finds the same pedal in a Toyota Hi Ace.

Considering there are other threads appearing alerting others to this, it may be time for our moderators to consider changing the opening pic to something different and unique. There must be members out there that have the ability to provide an unique image which they won't flog off over e-bay?

You're garage must be miles away!

Just thinking that these pedals may have been a generic type and used on other Datsun Models such as the 510 etc? Would be logical knowing how Nissan made use of interchangability. Any 510 owners out there that could check?

No doubt he will be saying the same when he gets here!

Looking suspiciously like only UK bound RHD cars had numbers on both pedals!

And as such should be reported to the e-bay police.

Why would you when you can download it for free!

This would have to be an infringement of copyright.

Ah yes there was. A very special cross flow head manufactured by a Japanese engineering company. Use the search fuction and you will find a thread on this subject.

Scotts Old Auto Rubber carry all these profiles and sell by the meter. Don't have the actual address, look it up in the Yellow Pages. Located in Oakeigh, Victoria. I've used them in the 240 with great success and didn't leave a hole in the wallet. edit: I think it's Haughton Rd. They also sell profiles for any car and Old Rover Parts!

Excellent write up of how to, however, I need to add a bit. The primary reason the clock may have stopped ticking may be simply that it needs oiling! However, just to oil the jewels may lead to erratic running as the reason for the stoppage in the first place would be binding of the balance staff to jewel, or other location holes due to a build up of dust and thickening of oil. The correct procedure is to clean it first. The simplest way available to any budding watchmaker would be to use a small artists brush and shellite to brush away any residue that has been built up over the years, you would also use the same method on any other location holes. Work carefully and make sure the assembly is completely dry, before applying the smallest drop of high quality mineral. We used "moebius"oil for French Clocks. To give you an idea of how much oil to use, make yourself an oiler out of a very thin piece of wire .5mm thick and file a small taper. When you dip this in the oil [only 1mm in] it should give you a "bee's d***" drop of oil which when deposited on the location holes will be sufficient to operate for the next 30 years! Remember, over oiling will cause problems with binding. Now thats how it was done. The simple way of cleaning. 1. Buy a can of carb cleaner. 2. [Assuming you have the movement out of the movement holder]. Go outside and using the fine nozzle that comes with the carb cleaner, spray clean the movement, taking care that you don't melt any wire connections. 3. Air dry 4. Oil. Personally I would use the brush method as you can "feel" your way along rather than blasting in, anothe r method would be to drop the movement into an ultrasonic cleaner, then oil. *****Disclaimer******* If you choose to follow the above, whatever you do make sure you work around ANY electrical wires. Preferably removing any coils or such prior to cleaning. Mike

Have done this conversion on both cars. Can reccomend it as it doesn't chop up the cable, used alternator from a 280zx, plugs fitted directly into the unit without modificiation, requiring only the removal of the VR.

Hey, don't be sorry, it's only that my late father was a watchmaker, so you got to learn the trade names. Whilst discussing these clocks, I remember back in '76 my clock in my fist zed decided to spit the dummy. I pulled it out [heater control method, which incidently is in the FSM]. Proudly presented it to my father for repair who had one look at it, pronounced it a useless piece of Japanese engineering, quite rightly as there where some immaculate watch movements coming out of Japan at the time, he proded and poked at it for a few minutes, then pronouced it dead. Burnt coil! No parts available. So just by chance you decide to clean it and it still doesn't work then the coil will be burnt out. The best practical fix would be to re-engineer a quartz movement into the housing. I believe someone already written an article on this somewhere on this site.

The principles are all the same. Just don't forget the diode!

For the watchmakers out there. The "pendulum" is called a Balance Wheel and the axle is the Balance Staff.

Some interesting results coming out from the left hookers! Wonder if only RHD models had the clutch stamped, which begs the question, if they did then did Nissan manufacture a different clutch for Rh & LH drives? I'll have a look [with a mirror of course] later in the afternoon!

Carl, Wonderful article on the Ignitor. After seeing the photos, one cannot make the assumption that the Pertronix is mearly a reed switch activated by a magnet. Am I correct on this? Are there any Aussie Guys using this system? Keep those fingers hitting the keyboard and look forward to more in depth how to's!

In which case they are unique!