Zedrally

Guy's, Netregistry will register your name xxx.org.au for $22 for 2 years! Keep up the good work and advise all of us zed owners when you've got the site up and running!

Now if the motor was mid mounted then some calculated preload would be benefical. You wern't going to do a mid mount where you?

As the name implies, collapsable wheel, or AKA a dinky wheel. It was[is] a narrow wheel, about 1/2 width of the original [read very narrow] and depending on model could come with a can of air to pump it up!. Big stink going on between the RACV & VicRoads on this very topic, they call them space saver wheels and carriage of them renders the vehicle un-roadworthy. Sorry about the ZX analogy, however that's where ther first came about to my knowledge.

All very good questions! Collapasable wheel came out with the ZX models in Oz. Excuse my ignorance [it is a s-30 forum after all], but did the ZX come as a 2 seater? If so then it poses a very good question as to why the tool compartments were phased out? And lastly, is there a bigger tank? All very good questions, if of course you're into ZX's!

I would suggest that you try a forum/club that is dedicated to Z31's!

Wonderful, do I win a cigar? You may need to consider other issues here as well, as the springs vary in HLS-30's. THis was a factory design to make up for the weight of the driver. Obviously this isn't a problem in HS-30's and the reason for me querying whether you would notice any appreciable difference by moving the batt to the COM. Other factors to consider would be the appreciable weight gain that you will introduce to the vehicle by the addition of longer heavy cabling?

Wonderful info, now could you please advise which one you have so I can identify mine as I have bolt up [flange fit] half shafts as well!

You hadn't mentioned a specific model. I assumed it was a 240? Not being familar with this type of battery, is there much appreciable difference in weight?

Not really a bad idea, never actually heard of any zed owners actually doing this as the weight ratios/COG are pretty good as they are. My thoughts would be to place the pack behing the pax seat/tool storage area somehow [RHD drive]. If you're using this space for extinguiser storage then I have no idea where else you could relocate the battery?

Using the body as a return is dubious at the best of times. If it wasn't then all car electricals would be single wire! I suspect many of the zed electrical problems that we read about are brought about by PO's disregarding the negative return and relying on the body as a negative return rather than using a dedicated wire return to negative.

Our water spins the right way, which is opposite to your way! It's called the corriollis effect [spelling might be wrong]. Water will drain straight down at the equator then slowly starts spinning in opposite directions as you move towards the poles.

Try a zed wrecker for the original parts. Unless you're into competition avoid a full harness. [Life issues with belts etc].

Never heard of a zed with just lap belts? Can't imagine that your car came from the factory with these. A PO must have switched them out. I agree that they are in-adequate.

Too too Big, Scale them down,......please.......

Have you rotated the rims?

MY 2 bob's worth! [Aussie Slang]. That compression is frighteningly high. I can only speculate that may be the source of all your problems. With such high compression I would think then you would need to run 130 octane [AVGAS]. Can't help you with any thoughts on the Holley's and can understand your fustration. You wouldn't still have the SU's kicking around? Just a thought as you would be eliminating a possible trouble source [Holleys], get the engine running and then work out why the carbs are giving you such a hard time, who knows you might just be happy with SU's? MOM

On Aussie 260Z + the solenoids control the air conditioning [if fitted] and heater. They operate the air control doors and need to be operational if ANY heating or cooling is required.

I had a vibration that came in about 80km [45mph]. Had us all perplexed for a few months. It turned out that one of the rims had gone off centre, ie the holes had worn bigger. Solved the problem with a brand new set of rims and matching tyres.

Ben, From 2003 CAMS MAnual Gearbox casing,gear selector mechanism and the number of forward ratios MUST be original. Internal componants are free. Replacing any of those components with an equivilant as close to original is not an option. [in reality it would need a protest and a strip down to find weather it is eligible or not. In HRC & PRC Cat 1,2& 3 within the HRA there is a Gentlemans agreement about eligibility. As most of us are 50+ and just want to go out for the fun of it [That's why we shun HRC in VRC, love those abbreviations] we don't give a rat's about minor issues, although we are all mindful of protests that have occured in the past, none where ever brought about by a competing crew. HIH. Mike of the Mire!

Alan, It all comes down to whether you want to be HRC [Historic Rally] or PRC [Production Rally Car] or now to completely confuse you Historic Racing is different again. Thats why you can rally a zed with triple's, Hollinger Gearbox etc etc and be legal [PRC] on the other hand you could well expect a protest at a Historic Race meeting given the same car.

Any idea who is actually engineering these?

Hi Alan, Still jet lagged I see.... There was a ex works box that sold here recently. I suspect this gear is needed for it? Pricey, yes which reminds me that I still have to investigate those 3 boxes that I inherited. Where the option boxes a flange fitting or sleeve?

One of our fellow rallyists is searching for a 1st Gear for an option 1 Gearbox. Willing to either buy outright or swap for one from an option 2. I don't have the book with me at present, however I thought all 1st gear ratios where the same in these boxes, with the 2, 3,and 4 beigh the variables? Can someone set me straight on this before I leave for home tonight? MOM

Logical when you explain it as such. However, wasn't the original concept to burn or re-route any emmision buildup back through the intake? Is there a design that allows you to use the larger filters instead of the OEM aircleaner AND allows crankcase emmisions to be introduced back into the carburation system as originally designed?

But what does it actually do?