Zedrally

Why not catch us in the chat room later in the day?

I hope Alan has his radar turned on. Do you know the history of the car. Where was it exported to, Europe, UK or ??? With all respects, don't take what "smokey"has written as gospel as he is quoting LHD material which has little or no relevence to RHD's. 5 Speeds where OEM in all Australian imports and I believe that to be the case for Europe/UK as well. Why the USA got 4 speed is not known, maybe to keep the price down, who knows? Who cares? Like wise consoles changed or where different from our American Cousins believe is correct for that time period. Now before some else takes a big stick to your car, I'll await the "blip"on the screen from the UK! Standby for further details.......

Thats it, Just connect them both together and you'll get air & heat again.

That was a quote from Haynes. I assumed all 280's had IR altenators?

Who is the drop kick?

If its a 280Z then it's internal.

This one of the contol relay on the RH side.

Sorry about the poor resolution with these. The battery was playing up and I couldn't use the flash. The I will in most probablity be connected to the throttle dashpot. This was used to increase engine revs when the A/C was used. All that you need to do is connect the suction line directly to the manifold and all shouild work OK.

As an afterthought, I'll take some shots tonight of the original set up. I think the PO may have stuffed things up by removing the A/C as the suction line does go back to the vac relays on the RH side before joining up with the Inlet Manifold. Funny things happen when you turn on the air, flaps open and close etc.

Sorry, Can't remember back that far [when I had my dash out]. From memory there is only 1 suction line and that lead back to the 2 relays mounted on the RH side for the A/C system. The I may have something to do with the A/C?

He He.. Wher are you guys getting these avitars from:love: :love: :love: :love:

There is a suction line there. It could be the "s" that you refer to. It does go to the inlet manifold. If I remember I'll take a photo of it tonight and post it. Why not test it with a piece of tube and sucking on it?

Yep, picked up a couple from K-Mart Auto when it still was K-mart auto a couple of years back. About $40 ea then. Mind you there not Datsun/Nissan Original but they come with all bits and detailed intructions. IMO, the only difference between flat top/round is that you can't alter the mixture on the flats without altering the float level. I've got round on the 240 and flats in the 260 and have better economy in the 260? Go figure??????? Mike

why oh why does everyone pick on these carbs? I know there not the best but if you hadn't been serviced for 25 years you'd be a little on the slow side as well. Pick a carb kit, spend a bit of time stripping them down and re-building them and you will be pleasently surprised by the result. Incidentaly, flat tops maintain the originality of the wee little beastie, I don't want to hear another bad word about them!

You can buy a new VR, however, many experts suggest that you also replace the altenator as a combination. This isn't a theory I subsribe to as no one has actually convinced me why? If you go the VR/Altenator combination then you may as well up grade to a IR altenator [reccommended].

Jeff, Simply put there is more than one type of distributor that was used on the L series engines. For instance an original 240 distributer is different in size to a later model 260 [in my case it would be the equivilent to the US 280]. For some reason in the 260 I had to rotate the distributer 180 degrees to what is considered normal setting for the 240. The distributer being the big size stilled fitted with the vac advance pointing toward the inlet manifold. It does however create a problem in timing setting. MN

It didn't on my 260, but then again there are different distributers depending on year and area of import? Mike

THis happened to me once. Same symtoms etc, had me puzzled to.... Eventually the alternator blew a field and took the VR with it, maybe it was the VR all along. To cut a long story short, I replaced the altenator/VR with a internally regulated one and never had any problems since!

Why don't you rotate the distributer 180 degrees and see if it will fire?

Thank you!

Thanks Mr C, Just started hearing noises from the rear bearings, couldn't have come at a better time. He also has a timing cahin tensioner, have no idea if it's for a 240/280 either? 13070-E3000

Your right there, but you still need to return the towers to factory height. And speaking of shims where could you even get those things anymore? Do shims come in different thicknesses? And couldn't you compensate shaving the head by a thicker gasket? I had a head down a couple of years ago and they shimmed it OK. I guess a head job shop would be the best palce to start looking, but then again if your getting the head done, they'll shim it anyway.

Have a night cap and go to bed. We can worry about it tomorrow!

Ok having stirred the pot, I've looked back at the photo. I would doubt that it is the original motor. Anyone looked at the inlet manifold? Strange devices attached for an early model. If memory service me right I see a vacuum relay and a throttle advance thingie[can't think of the correct word, maybe dashpot]. Surely these devices didn't appear on the low numbered VIN,s. So what have we here, a possible low numbered Z without matching serials? Who knows, and until someone actually sees it , well...... as for the milage, ahhhhh

Thanks Alan, Strange I think that they Used "Japanese Characters" in any publications [like the first download], and then went into script for the final badge, assuming I've read your reply correctly! Now, could you oblige with Datsun 240Z and Datsun 260z in Japanese? TIA