Zedrally

You can buy a new VR, however, many experts suggest that you also replace the altenator as a combination. This isn't a theory I subsribe to as no one has actually convinced me why? If you go the VR/Altenator combination then you may as well up grade to a IR altenator [reccommended].

Jeff, Simply put there is more than one type of distributor that was used on the L series engines. For instance an original 240 distributer is different in size to a later model 260 [in my case it would be the equivilent to the US 280]. For some reason in the 260 I had to rotate the distributer 180 degrees to what is considered normal setting for the 240. The distributer being the big size stilled fitted with the vac advance pointing toward the inlet manifold. It does however create a problem in timing setting. MN

It didn't on my 260, but then again there are different distributers depending on year and area of import? Mike

THis happened to me once. Same symtoms etc, had me puzzled to.... Eventually the alternator blew a field and took the VR with it, maybe it was the VR all along. To cut a long story short, I replaced the altenator/VR with a internally regulated one and never had any problems since!

Why don't you rotate the distributer 180 degrees and see if it will fire?

Thank you!

Thanks Mr C, Just started hearing noises from the rear bearings, couldn't have come at a better time. He also has a timing cahin tensioner, have no idea if it's for a 240/280 either? 13070-E3000

Your right there, but you still need to return the towers to factory height. And speaking of shims where could you even get those things anymore? Do shims come in different thicknesses? And couldn't you compensate shaving the head by a thicker gasket? I had a head down a couple of years ago and they shimmed it OK. I guess a head job shop would be the best palce to start looking, but then again if your getting the head done, they'll shim it anyway.

Have a night cap and go to bed. We can worry about it tomorrow!

Ok having stirred the pot, I've looked back at the photo. I would doubt that it is the original motor. Anyone looked at the inlet manifold? Strange devices attached for an early model. If memory service me right I see a vacuum relay and a throttle advance thingie[can't think of the correct word, maybe dashpot]. Surely these devices didn't appear on the low numbered VIN,s. So what have we here, a possible low numbered Z without matching serials? Who knows, and until someone actually sees it , well...... as for the milage, ahhhhh

Thanks Alan, Strange I think that they Used "Japanese Characters" in any publications [like the first download], and then went into script for the final badge, assuming I've read your reply correctly! Now, could you oblige with Datsun 240Z and Datsun 260z in Japanese? TIA

That's exactly the answer I was expecting! Is there anyone out there with a 240 with a VIN between 200 & 500 who can verify how the plate was mounted?

This morning I was thinking about badging, why, don't ask it was just a fleeting moment.....more particularly about the way 240's where badged around the world. We all know that the 240 was known as a Fairlady in Japan, but was it actually badged in English as Fairlady or was it in Japanese characters? If so the what is the calligraphy for this or if it wasn't can someone [Kats or Alan maybe] post 240Z in Japanese.

I'll don the flame proof overalls before I hit the send button!!! Guy's its a well known fact that the early 240's didn't arrive with complience plates attached. Over here the dealer gave you the plate for you to screw on if you desired! So I wouldn't poo poo it just yet. Looking at the photos it may well just be what it is, a low VIN LHD zed. Worth it just to get the plate.

Strange thing occured, whilst I knew what Ed meant ""between the "E" and the "M"."". It wasn't until I actually looked at my gauges and realised there was no E or M. Is this something that only exists in LHD zeds?

Sorry Ed I have to disagree with that statement. Firstly, on every zed I've owned it was generally around the middle. Secondly, I wouldn't trust any zed gauge as they all have there own idiosycrancies. Check for a sludge buildup around the sensor, that can and will affect the reading. The only positive method is to use a direct reading probe to verify what temp your coolant is and cross reference that with what your gauge shows.

FRont struts on a 260 are "beefier"" than 240. The rear I think is the same.

This hasn't anything to do with your previous post about the relay has it? If I remember correctly you had inquired about what I believed to be the indicator relay? MN

Ah, you.ve solved your problem after all!

Sorry, Can't help. Might have something to do with hazards?

Does it make noises when you use the indicators?

Gad, What a problem, How about buying one over here, stripping it and restoring all parts that you need for a LHD version and sending the bits back in the mail over the next few years! Or Find a friend [relative etc] who can store it, buy one when you get here and make up your mind when you leave [if you leave hhhhhhh]!

There are cheaper ways of getting Aussie plates!

Wire off ballast resistor or dead resistor maybe? Haven't heard of problem before. Anyone else? MN

Thinking of bring your car over?