zdude1967

So- I adjusted the adjustable arm on the clutch master to the clutch pedal. I screwed it in a turns and it stopped slipping. Seems it was out too far and this does something the the inside of the clutch master. I now need to adjust my e brake as I replaced all braking and clutch parts, slave to master to brake lines to cylinders etc. I tried going in reverse and hitting the brakes than tried doing the same and pulling the e brake lever. Neither did anything so next step will be removing the rubber on the back of the rear wheel cylinders to access the star and try to adjust the brakes. The work is just never ending LOL

I did notice that the clutch seems to engage higher in the pedal, close to almost the top. I like this because I consider that a fast clutch (less push towards the floor). However maybe it is too high and still staying partially engaged when released causing the slip....thoughts, comments, witty observations, anyone .

Patcon- I did not have to depress it to hook it up. I just adjusted the piece that the clevis pin goes through to be the same length as it was in the old one. Once I put it through the firewall it just lined up with the hole for the clevis pin etc. on the clutch pedal. Put the pin and clip in installed slave and new line.

So, I just replaced my clutch master, slave, slave line and flushed out the old DOT and replaced with prestone synthetic DOT 3. Well in my test drive I noticed that the clutch is slipping in 3 and 4th gear. If I punch it, the tech goes up but the car is not increasing speed...clutch slipping. What did I do wrong. I matched the new clutch master arm that attaches to the clutch pedal the same length as the old one. Is my problem in this the length of the clutch master arm or somewhere / something else?

I see that the FSM suggests DOT 3 for both the clutch and brakes. I have read that DOT 4 for brakes is a better option as it resists water better and has a higher temp max. Do you folks agree with this? My other questions is would you use the DOT 4 also in the clutch or stay with DOT 3.. Suggestions and opinions wanted please ...thanks

Thank you everyone for the replies. This groups is always helpful. I am going to bring the aluminum drums to O Reillys to have them miked and see if they have enough meat on them. They are not pitted or even gouged, and they seem in good shape- is the opinion to get them cut anyway (not at O Reillys- I will find a machine shop) or to just use them as is if I decide to reuse the originals...BTW anyone on here from the Phoenix area that knows a place to get them cut. The last machine shop I used for work I regretted. :<

Yarb- yes I agree that is an option my questions is more geared to learning if the cast Iron / steel replacement drums are problematic or a good replacement that produces no problems.

Hello and Happy Holidays. I recently purchased some brake drums from Motorsports in Orange California. My original alloy ones seem to be in OK shape, but I wanted to redo everything prior to painting the car, brake line, wheel cylinders, all brake parts and drums. My question is has anyone had any problems with the cast iron replacements. I read somewhere about them locking up but do not know if that was in a racing application, my car is not a race car. My original ones seem in good shape but again just wanted to replace everything. Please share your thoughts on the Motorsports cast iron and steel drums - anyone on here using them, feedback please. Thanks

Zed head- sorry I am not understanding. Is the Diff mount looking bad or the mini drive shafts that you posted?

It was in neutral. The diff mount looks bad. Do you mean where the driveshaft connects to to Diff or something else

So my driveshaft on my 260 makes a noise when at high speeds I take my foot off the accelerator. Basically if I am punching it and say OK - fast enough and stop the acceleration and then are coasting with no torque to the drive shaft it makes this same noise it is making in this video, just much more, louder etc. it sounds like the driveshaft is gonna come up through the floor- maybe that's an exaggeration but you get the idea. Is that amount of play in the driveshaft correct? I replaced the universals a while back , doesn't seems like they are part of the play , it seems like either the transmission or the Differental.IMG_4827.MOV Any thoughts?

Patcon- I think the issue was the key way on the old cable was worn down - I can't say for sure what solved it. But since the cable was the last new item before it started working that must have been the final fix

So, I worked on it two weeks ago and broke the bolt holding the pinion in place. It was a brief moment of hulk like strength and zippy the pin head intelligence. Anyway- I finally wrapped it up yesterday and everything seems to work fine. Thanks everyone for your help.

Thanks everyone. Dutchzcarguy- I have found my old eyes do well with apple phone photos enlarged on the screen. I am going to try to get under it this Sunday. I bought a new speedo cable from Z car depot and a new Pinion, had to get a 17 tooth, the 16 seems to be on the endangered list. I believe the extra tooth will lower by about 5 miles , I have different wheel so the speedo was oof between 5 and 8ish MPH anyway. Patcon- Since I am going to just start replacing stuff I will start the removal of the speedo cable at the speedo and see if it is spinning. I hope this works I liked having a speedo! Hopefully it has a happy ending- I will update ...thanks

Patcon-the speedo cable has a key on the trans side and a specific shape on the speedo side. I unscrewed the cable from the trans and spun it -the speedo moved. It does not move now that it is hooked up. Is there a way to see if the pinion moves while I have the car on ramps. So is what you are saying is the pinion has its own drive in the tranny that would not affect the tranny other then its impact on the speedo pinion?