zdude1967
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Everything posted by zdude1967
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So- I adjusted the adjustable arm on the clutch master to the clutch pedal. I screwed it in a turns and it stopped slipping. Seems it was out too far and this does something the the inside of the clutch master. I now need to adjust my e brake as I replaced all braking and clutch parts, slave to master to brake lines to cylinders etc. I tried going in reverse and hitting the brakes than tried doing the same and pulling the e brake lever. Neither did anything so next step will be removing the rubber on the back of the rear wheel cylinders to access the star and try to adjust the brakes. The work is just never ending LOL
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I did notice that the clutch seems to engage higher in the pedal, close to almost the top. I like this because I consider that a fast clutch (less push towards the floor). However maybe it is too high and still staying partially engaged when released causing the slip....thoughts, comments, witty observations, anyone .
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Patcon- I did not have to depress it to hook it up. I just adjusted the piece that the clevis pin goes through to be the same length as it was in the old one. Once I put it through the firewall it just lined up with the hole for the clevis pin etc. on the clutch pedal. Put the pin and clip in installed slave and new line.
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So, I just replaced my clutch master, slave, slave line and flushed out the old DOT and replaced with prestone synthetic DOT 3. Well in my test drive I noticed that the clutch is slipping in 3 and 4th gear. If I punch it, the tech goes up but the car is not increasing speed...clutch slipping. What did I do wrong. I matched the new clutch master arm that attaches to the clutch pedal the same length as the old one. Is my problem in this the length of the clutch master arm or somewhere / something else?
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I see that the FSM suggests DOT 3 for both the clutch and brakes. I have read that DOT 4 for brakes is a better option as it resists water better and has a higher temp max. Do you folks agree with this? My other questions is would you use the DOT 4 also in the clutch or stay with DOT 3.. Suggestions and opinions wanted please ...thanks
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Thank you everyone for the replies. This groups is always helpful. I am going to bring the aluminum drums to O Reillys to have them miked and see if they have enough meat on them. They are not pitted or even gouged, and they seem in good shape- is the opinion to get them cut anyway (not at O Reillys- I will find a machine shop) or to just use them as is if I decide to reuse the originals...BTW anyone on here from the Phoenix area that knows a place to get them cut. The last machine shop I used for work I regretted. :<
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Hello and Happy Holidays. I recently purchased some brake drums from Motorsports in Orange California. My original alloy ones seem to be in OK shape, but I wanted to redo everything prior to painting the car, brake line, wheel cylinders, all brake parts and drums. My question is has anyone had any problems with the cast iron replacements. I read somewhere about them locking up but do not know if that was in a racing application, my car is not a race car. My original ones seem in good shape but again just wanted to replace everything. Please share your thoughts on the Motorsports cast iron and steel drums - anyone on here using them, feedback please. Thanks
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So my driveshaft on my 260 makes a noise when at high speeds I take my foot off the accelerator. Basically if I am punching it and say OK - fast enough and stop the acceleration and then are coasting with no torque to the drive shaft it makes this same noise it is making in this video, just much more, louder etc. it sounds like the driveshaft is gonna come up through the floor- maybe that's an exaggeration but you get the idea. Is that amount of play in the driveshaft correct? I replaced the universals a while back , doesn't seems like they are part of the play , it seems like either the transmission or the Differental.IMG_4827.MOV Any thoughts?
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Thanks everyone. Dutchzcarguy- I have found my old eyes do well with apple phone photos enlarged on the screen. I am going to try to get under it this Sunday. I bought a new speedo cable from Z car depot and a new Pinion, had to get a 17 tooth, the 16 seems to be on the endangered list. I believe the extra tooth will lower by about 5 miles , I have different wheel so the speedo was oof between 5 and 8ish MPH anyway. Patcon- Since I am going to just start replacing stuff I will start the removal of the speedo cable at the speedo and see if it is spinning. I hope this works I liked having a speedo! Hopefully it has a happy ending- I will update ...thanks
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Patcon-the speedo cable has a key on the trans side and a specific shape on the speedo side. I unscrewed the cable from the trans and spun it -the speedo moved. It does not move now that it is hooked up. Is there a way to see if the pinion moves while I have the car on ramps. So is what you are saying is the pinion has its own drive in the tranny that would not affect the tranny other then its impact on the speedo pinion?
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Hope I can still get some responses. I have some updated progress. I put everything back together and Lo and behold the speedo does not work at all. The nylon pinion was not damaged and the cable looked fine. I regreased the cable and put it back, checked the pinion it was fine put it back and -nothing, the speedo does not move at all. I took the speedo cable end off at the tranny pinion and spun the cable by hand. My trusted assistant told me the speedo moved to about 20mph, did it again same thing. Hooked everything up and drove down the street and nothing, no speedo. So a few questions. I am assuming the pinion is not turning since the speedo picked up my twisting the cable end If the nylon pinion is not destroyed then the pinion should turn, is this correct? Is there any way it would not turn- it seems like it rolls into the gears in the tranny and if not too far in or out should turn...is this correct or am I missing something. If I put the car in neutral and moved the driveshaft by hand and took the speedo cable off would I see the pinion keyway spin if it were working correctly? Could the gear the pinion works off of in the tranny be damaged...wouldn't that be evident cause the car would not shift right or something, the gearbox would be loose or hard to shift? Completely lost and frustrated over this Anyone have any idea what could be going on?
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Thanks everyone- I will be draining and going with the Redline MT 90 this weekend
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I s there anything I need to do to convert from the conventional to the synthetic. Other than drain the trans well?
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Has anyone used this brand...Driven Racing Oil 04530 Gl-4 80w-90 Gear Oil. if so good results or not. And would I better off going with the Redline synthetic. This is conventional oil -Driven Racing Oil 04530 Gl-4 80w-90 Gear Oil. I was using this to top off the tranny, I was going to drain it and do a change. Thoughts do I go with redline or continue with the Driven brand conventional. Would the synthetic be better?
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Thanks everyone. I reached out to Bobs speedometers and they referred me to a place in California( West Valley instruments). They need me to send the speedo in to see if they can fix it. Two more questions. #1- can you take the speedo out if you have a dash cover- the ones you put on if the dash is trashed. #2 Anyone ever try the speedhut Z replacement speedo Hope to hear back...thanks
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So the speedo needle in my late model 260 started bouncing excessively the other day. The bounce range being 30 to 80 MPH. It works fine then bounces, back to fine etc, etc. So I took the speedo cable off at both the speedo and trans, it was well oiled and in what seems to be very good shape. I took it out of the sheath to check for cable damage and found none. I took the pinion gear out and it looks good also, 16 tooth no damage I can see. So...what's the deal, why the bounce. Is the speedo itself having an issue? Any thoughts?
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This is regarding a recent purchase from California Datsun. I bought a polished alternator for a late model 1974 260z. I called and ordered it specifically as the owner AL that I had spoken to a few weeks prior to placing the order told me to do as he would send out the one that fits my car to be dissembled and polished. Well I never received a receipt only a email saying I would be contacted when the unit was done and being sent to me. A few weeks later I was told it was done and on the way. Problem one. The fan belt I had on my old alternator (Hitachi) did not fit. Nor did one I ordered for that was meant for a 74 260z. I had to measure and order one that fit- it took me several to find one. I called and told Al from California Datsun saying I did not think it was the right alternator for the car. He said that was not the case and never heard anyone that had a problem with the fan belt fitting. Fast forward a few weeks as I had to keep trying different belts until I found one that fit. I installed the alternator and hooked up the battery and it immediately fried the fusable link. Now since I reinstalled the old alternator the car has run a brand new optima battery down and a new auto zone battery. The multi meter has the alternator charging at about 12.75, well below where it should be. So either the damage from the alternator that California Datsun sold me fried the voltage regulator or some other things. BTW- I cannot find a voltage regulator for this car Z motorsports has them on back order and has for months. I tried to post this under comments on the California Datsun web site but the comments seems to be controlled by California Datsun- so there are no negative comments and rather there are comments posted to contradict negative comments posted on other sites- such as this site. So the purpose of this post is...we all work hard on our classic Z's. No one needs to install parts that are bad that damage our cars- possibly to the point of not being able to be repaired either due to lack of replacement parts or possible damage beyond our skill levels. BTW -there has been negative comments posted on this site in the past, also my local Datsun club had some special comments regarding California Datsun none of them good. Just wanted to share my experience so no one else damages their car with bad parts from California Datsun
