zdude1967

Thanks for the reply's. This post was from awhile ago. The issue was the brake booster hose had a leak it has since been repaired. Thanks Again everyone

Is there anything that shows an expanded view of it dissembled that I can try to follow. Is it in the FSM

I just did some time with the Z and I think my switch may be the issue. I replaced it with a rebuilt one from E-bay a few years back. It seems like it is not moving correctly, as you click through the off position - to accessories- to on- it is just not smooth. It also seems to maybe not click well into the on position. It did make the lights work for a short time then failed again. My question is it possible to dissemble it and try to clean it or do I just try to get another one. Also my wiring upgrade is the "parking light upgrade harness " by David Irwin of Marysville Washington. I wanted to verify which one I had so I looked up the paperwork on it. Look forward to hearing back

Dutch zcar guy I will take a look at the connections - would the issues be obvious, like melted or discolored connections

Steve J I put the new turn signal and headlight switch in a few years back one of the reasons was to fix the turn signals not working. I also replaced the hazard switch for the same reason. Since my my skills to evaluate electrical issues is weak I generally just replace things until the problem is solved and things work correctly. I think this is called a swap- nician, like a technician but with poor skills- LOL. As far as the headlight harness update I am not sure which one I put in- I need to look through me receipts to determine that. If I recall correctly the upgrade does have a single new style modern fuse in it- if that is of any help. The parking lights are working, the turn signal (right side) stopped working about a year ago. I have not tried to track down the issue regarding that problem. The rebuilt turn signal switch did not come with the connector attached- It came with the pins ( I think it is 9 pin) and I had to crimp them on and slide them into the new connector, the pieces were included just not assembled. I assume the turn signal issue may be be something loose in that connector. I do have a multi meter and when I use it (very infrequently) I watch a you tube video on how it works. I do feel comfortable taking things apart with electrical I just feel like I have no idea what I am doing I have I have removed and reinstalled the engine, replaced the clutch, rebuilt the suspension, generally rebuilt the car, even painted it after watching too many episodes of overhaulin but I am completely in the dark with electrical.

So the headlights on my late model 260z are not working on brights or regular. The brights blue rectangle in the tach does not light up either. This car has a newer headlight switch and turn-signal switch and I think the headlight harness upgrade as well. It has worked in the past until last night when I was out late then expected and tried to turn them on...that was fun Does this car have a headlight relay(s). Fuse is ok. My electrical skill level weak so please keep explanations very simple. As always I appreciate any help

Thanks Zed Head

Can anyone tell me what these things are on a 1974 late model 260z Unknown item 1 is on the passenger side mounted above the frame rail.(silver box mounting screws on top, might have been black in the past) Unknown item 2 (rectangle metal box with wires going to it) is under the black cover on the passenger side in front of the battery on the fender well. It is under the black cover on the back side (towards back of car). item 3 is on the opposite side of item 2 under the black cover towards the front of the car.(smaller metal box with wires connected) Item 4 (the silver box on the firewall) is on the firewall on the passenger side I am trying to find out what they are and then find replacements so I can add them to my back up parts in case they fail. Thanks

UPDATE - so the battery and alternator were checked both were fine. The other day I installed a resistor on my tach connection- reason being that I installed the crane xr-3000 awhile back and my tach then became bouncy and erratic. So it fixed the tach issue PLUS...HERE IT COMES also the tach bouncing when the turn signal was on. Seems the crane upgrade can jack up quite a few things. Well anyway this solved two issues both the tach erratic behavior due to the crane install plus my electrical issue when the turn-signal is on. Like a buy one get one free...

Thanks everyone- I will get on this tomorrow and begin by getting the alternator and battery checked. I had fixed bad turn signals on this car a few years back, replaced the hazard switch the combo switch, flasher and the signals worked however a few months ago the passenger side stopped working maybe this is part of the current issue perhaps due to corrosion ?

I had the 74-260z out the other day at night. Headlights as well as radio and heater fan on. I had to make a turn and put the blinker on and the headlights and dash lights started dimming with each blink of the turn signal, the amp gauge also dropped with every blink and the tach gauge also dropped with every blink. Is this normal or do I have an issue with something. I know the electrical system in these cars does not produce much surplus power so is this normal.

I got the Z out yesterday and have some updated info. At idle if you rev it the idle drops and takes awhile to recover as indicated above- so it does not have to be driving to do this. If you pump the brakes at a standstill the idle also drops not as severely- it recovers after a few seconds. I took the car out yesterday and it was colder out about 65 degrees - the last time I dialed in the cabs it was probably 90 ish. Anyway the idle issue was worse yesterday- when approaching a stoplight I put the car in neutral and rolled to the stoplight -it stalled, it also stalled a few other times when coming to a stop if I didn't work the accelerator pedal so it would not stall. . Don't know if the lower outside temp contributed to the idle drop being worse or if it is something else. As I mentioned one of my evap canister line connectors is broken so the line just hangs there connected to nothing. This connector traces back to the line from the distributor vacuum advance. It comes off the vacuum advance and breaks into two directions one going a few inches and connecting to a nipple on the front carburetor the other travels to the Evap canister. BTW I have the Crane electronic ignition module and coil installed as well. Thoughts, suggestions, would replacing the brake booster help the idle dropping?

I will try the brake booster while parked tomorrow and get back to you. What do the connectors to the carbon canister do- as I mentioned they are kinda jacked up.

When stopping at a red light the idle lowers on my round top SU carb 260z.It takes anywhere from 3 to 15 seconds to increase by itself back up to 800/ 900 RPM. It lowers to about 500 RPM and as mentioned increases slowly back to regular idle speed. If I pull away from the light before the idle increases the car stammers. What is causing this, vacuum leak, vacuum advance issue or something else. How can I fix this. Some additional information the connectors on my carbon canister are broken so they are not connected very well- would this cause it....Thoughts , suggestions???

Thanks- cleaned the connector and it seems to be better. However I noticed that my A/C fuse in the fuse box- 2nd one up from the bottom on the right is very hot. I was running the fan which only works on the low setting and the fuse becomes too hot to touch. It is an A/C car with the A/C components removed. Since the fan only works on one of the three speeds do you think that is the reason for the fuse to be so hot?

Thanks everyone for the input - I will get to work on this ASAP

I have a 74 260 and a few times the Tach, temp, fuel and oil pressure gauge have stopped working and then just started working again - the Amp gauge however did not stop, it continued to work while the other gauges took a nap. Anyone have any idea what may be causing this. I do have the crane ignition which plays a bit of havoc with my Tach (it makes it erratic). Any thoughts why this is happening

Thanks for everyone's help. I adjusted the dizzy tang and it runs great

Thanks I will work on it this weekend and see what happens. I will let you guys know the outcome. one other question if the spindle were to be adjusted to add more advance as Zed head mentioned in a prior response would it be turned clockwise or counterclockwise.

7tooZ I am sorry I was not clear with my question.You said you should be able to point the rotor at number 1 cable then rotate the module on the bracket until the red light come on. Do you mean slide it on the banana shaped bracket and is the red light the one on the crane module. Slide it until that light comes on?

7tooZ So just unscrew the silver screw and move the module clockwise and adjust using that extra play in the banana shaped bracket. That will give more range to adjust the advance. The red light on the crane module. What does that mean when the light comes on.

Zed head- to get the dizzy back into the adjustment range would I turn the drive quill clockwise or counter clockwise. Thanks

Mark-thanks. I used a bit after the piston stopped raising and before it started dropping so I would guess I am close Zed head- Dizzy is a stock replacement from motorsports, I bought a few years back. I cannot recall if it came with a new base. Also it has the crane xr -700 ignition module which requires a different piece to be put under the rotor that comes with the crane module.Is it possible that when the engine was rebuilt since they did not use the Nissan cam gear (the one with the numbers and the v notch) is it possible that they set the chain up one tooth or something off and would that create the situation I am having with being out of advance

Thanks for the information. I set up TDC the best I could . The car starts however a few issues and questions. First question is when the piston is at the top of its stroke using the chop stick highly technical tool the piston remains stationary as the crank is hand turned for just a bit before starting to move down for the power stroke. So is TDC when the piston first reaches the top of its stroke or is it prior to starting to come down for the power stroke, or or somewhere in the little bit of rotation I can get by hand in between those two points.That was the question now the issue- in trying to time with the timing light I advance the dizzy as far as it will go and it is not advanced enough- it is about 6 to 8 degrees BTDC. The car needs additional advance as it stalls. What would be the reason that I turn the dizzy as far as it will go and it is not enough. What is a solution for this. Would using the point that the piston first stops moving up to TDC allow the dizzy to give a bit more advance. Thoughts anyone

I need to find TDC because I replaced the oli pump and now it wont start. I believe this is because it was not at TDC when I installed the oil pump. The tab was replaced with a tab for early model 74 260z -this car is a late model and the damper never pointed correctly at the tab . In the past I made a mark on the damper when I put it at TDC. The damper was rebuilt recently as it was separating, so the mark is gone. I want to work on this today, if I rotate the engine by hand and find a piston at the begining of its travel closest to the spark plug then as it goes down see the intake open , close at bottom and stay closed until heading up for the exhaust stroke can I then keep doing this until I find it doing this through the proper firing order then identify #1