zdude1967

Here is the situation: Engine was rebuilt the cam timing chain gear is not the standard with the notch, the car doesn't have a timing tab and the dizzy has been set wrong so how do I find TDC with tis situation. Can I remove the valve cover, rotate the engine by hand until I get one of the pistons to the top of its stroke. Then rotate that one through its 4 cycle stroke until i find the pattern of intake opening at the top of the cylinders stroke, closing until exhaust valve opens coming up exhaust stroke and find the 1,53,6,2,4 pattern of this then rotate the engine through to go back to # 1 and set it at TDC. I may not be explaining this clearly but I would be happy to further explain. Basically there are no indicators to determine where the engine is so I am a bit lost.BTW - I am using a chopstick to feel the piston reach the top of its stroke through this process

Thank you

Yes- I do understand however it does not start. I appreciate your help. At this point I set it in the middle of the dizzy adjustment and then once it started I would time it. I think it times at 12 degrees BTDC. I could be off on that but I would check before doing it. How do you time it after you bring it to TDC to replace the oil pump prior to starting it. I assumed you put the dizzy in the middle of advance and retard, start it and adjust the dizzy (timing from there) . Is that not how it works or do you hook up the timing light as you mentioned and shoot it at the damper and timing tab as you crank it and adjust the dizzy ?

I put the dizzy in the middle position- I assume that takes care of ignition timing. If it does not let me know. Have confirmed spark using a timing light - it flashed on all wires so it should have spark. I replaced a radiator and front cover seal, and oil pump. I think the oil pump would be the only thing that could effect starting. What are your thoughts on the oil pump shaft direction that I used per the rebuild book

This is the second part of "timing chain set up incorrectly' posted Nov 30th. I tried to adjust the oil pump spindle as suggested by folks on this site. It would not after several hours adjust as suggested. I referred to how to rebuild you datsun engine by Tom Monroe and adjusted it as the book suggested this was different then what was suggested. It now turns over but will not start. Could this be related to the oil pump spindle position This is where it was set- This is what was suggested- This is where is was set per the book by tom monroe

OK - I will pull the pump next weekend and reinstall. Av8ferg- I actually have a new Nissan sprocket never used that I can do the swap with. First course of action is this oil pump issue. I will get the sprocket in a few weeks. I will return with results next week - thanks everyone

any need to squirt oil in the cylinder through spark plug hole before cranking

I did prime the pump but that was in June

Patcon- no reason I know that the oil should not flow. The pump is a new turbo style pump from MSA. I installed it in June and had to step away from it due to AZ heat in summer. So it was primed, installed and nothing done until now, I also changed the oil at the time and did not prime the filter, I usually don't but maybe in this case it is causing an issue.So just to confirm what you are saying it should be fine as it is , pull the plugs crank it and wait to see if the oil bar starts to work. Should I pull the filter and add oil to it prior to beginning.

Jonbill / All the issue is several- the immediate issue being the replacement of the oil pump and no oil reaching the oil bar. The secondary issue which become more clear once the valve cover came off is the cam sprocket / timing chain. I am able to get the car to run -well (no spark plug damage, pinging, knocking etc.) by spinning the distributor all the way towards the drivers side of the car (question, is that advancing it or retarding it) however that is at the max of its adjustment capacity so for a rebuild with low miles that seems questionable. So my first goal is to get the oil circulating , get the car put back together run it a few weeks , test the new 3 core radiator I installed then get to the timing chain issue. To accomplish this do I need to pull the oil pump and reinstall so the spindle points to 11:25 as I am understanding it is off on tooth or is it fine as it is.

I was able to find a photo of the oil pump tab in the cloud. How does it look, maybe more like 11:28, is that an issue?

I did however the timing notch in a harmonic balancer did not line up to the timing tab due to the harmonic balancer being worn and slipping. It has since been rebuilt and with the engine at TDC it points to the zero on the timing tab. Because the balancer notch did not line up and I was unaware of the balancer slipping I thought the timing tab was the wrong one for the car as it is a late model 260. So long story short in the past it was timed by how it ran, no knocks or pings backfires etc And this was the dist. at the end of the adjustment towards the drivers side.

Here is a photo of the cam sprocket. It is not at TDC currently because I was cranking the engine to make sure the oil was coming out of the oil bar over the cam. Which it is not. This is not a Nissan sprocket to the best of my knowledge - I have a new timing chain kit and the Nissan sprocket is very different - holes are located differently Nissan sprocket has the V.

240260280 Thanks I did that when I installed the oil pump back in June. I do not have the photos anymore but it was at 11:25 same as your photo indicates.

Did not know which topic it would work better in. Is this the extent of your input

I had my engine rebuilt about 7 years ago. Since then I have to adjust (move ) the dist. all the way to the drivers side to make it run correctly. In the middle of the adjustment range it runs like sh*t.Some back history - the timing tab may not be correct as the crank pulley never lined up to zero at TDC- however I recently got the crank pulley rebuilt and now at TDC it seems to point to zero. In any case my issue is that the rebuilder used some lame aftermarket chain sprocket at the cam that does not have the V to associate the - mark to. In addition it does not seem they put the brass link associated to the #1 dimple or any dimple at TDC the brass link is a few inches away from any dimples at TDC. Is this why my dist. adjustment range is at its max -also I installed the oil pump and did an oil change etc. let the car sit a few months due to Arizona summer heat and tried cranking it with the valve cover off and and not seeing any oil come off the oil bar I primed the oil pump when I did the install back in June do I need to prime the oil filter or is the cam sprocket timing chain thing effecting the oil pump alignment somehow. Are the things I am mentioning connected

I had my engine rebuilt about 7 years ago. Since then I have to adjust (move ) the dist. all the way to the drivers side to make it run correctly. In the middle of the adjustment range it runs like sh*t.Some back history - the timing tab may not be correct as the crank pulley never lined up to zero at TDC- however I recently got the crank pulley rebuilt and now at TDC it seems to point to zero. In any case my issue is that the rebuilder used some lame aftermarket chain sprocket at the cam that does not have the V to associate the - mark to. In addition it does not seem they put the brass link associated to the #1 dimple or any dimple at TDC the brass link is a few inches away from any dimples at TDC. Is this why my dist. adjustment range is at its max -also I installed the oil pump and did an oil change etc. let the car sit a few months due to Arizona summer heat and tried cranking it with the valve cover off and and not seeing any oil come off the oil bar I primed the oil pump when I did the install back in June do I need to prime the oil filter or is the cam sprocket timing chain thing effecting the oil pump alignment somehow. Are the things I am mentioning connected

I have to refer back to the install instructions to answer your questions. It has been installed for over a year. I did exactly what the instructions called for . This version of the crane is specific to the 260z. I remember I had to put this disc shaped thing in the dizzy and disconnect the original ignition module located by the fuse box. The tach works but intermittently either drops then regains or bounces. I was told this is from the tach technology not matching up perfectly with the crane. Tomorrow I will look for the install instructions so I can answer your questions- not trying to ignore them just don't have the answers without the instructions. The main purpose of this however is to determine if the crane is any better then stock. If I kept the crane coil and put everything back the way it was, the stuff from the dizzy and the original ignition module would the car perform any differently then it does now.

The tach bounces because of the crane. I think in the instructions it mentions something about that. It was rock solid with the original. I did switch out the dizzy parts for what was included with the crane.Do you guys feel it increased your cars performance over stock. Because if it really does nothing but is rather a same / same replacement for stock then I will just go back to stock....thoughts, comments

Thanks everyone for the help . Great to get advice from fellow Z owners

I installed the XR 70O purchased from motorsports with the thought it would increase my cars performance. I have a late year 260z with dome carbs. I really don't know if it does anything other then make my tach run a little screwy. What are your thoughts who has this setup and is it an improvement over the stock set up. Should I keep it or take it out and have a more steady tach? your thoughts

So when I marked the timing wheel etc. I used the chop stick brought the piston to the top of the stroke and then turned it a bit more till it started to drop them marked it between the two. Soooooooo I should be at a good TDC at this point from what I am reading ....right?

So it is in the middle of when it first reaches the top of the stroke and when it begins to fall again

My question...is top dead center right when the piston reaches the top of its stroke or the slight turn of the crank that you can do before it begins to drop. I use a chop stick and hand turn the crank the piston reaches the top of its stroke but then remains there for the slightest turn of the crank before it begins to drop. So where is TDC

Thanks- the car is set for paint. The rubber will be replaced directly after so I may have to deal with the smell until late spring 2018.