Everything posted by zdude1967
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Old School Differential And Transmission Oil Or Synthetic
I need to drain both my differential and my 4 speed transmission. It is filled with non synthetic. I am reading all about redline and or royal purple however they are both synthetic. My understanding is you cant put synthetic oil in if it did not contain synthetic before. IS this true- what do you use if not the synthetic and or how do you convert to use the synthetic. Any help is greatly appreciated
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240z grill on a 260z
Hi I have a late model 260z. I want to put a 240z grill on it-what do I need to make this happen. Does it bolt right up or does it need modifacations, if so what mods. Thanks zdude1967
- Weird compression test results
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Weird compression test results
I did the test cold with a tool that I rented from Checker Auto. If the numbers I took were real I would guess the engine would run like sh*t,correct? The car runs well. In any case I will have to try it again. How long should I run it before I do the test, just ubtil normal operating temp? Thanks zdude1967
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Weird compression test results
I did a compression test on my recently rebuilt 260z engine. It has about 1500 miles on it. On the dry test with the carb fully open and the coil wire off I get the following results # 1 thru #5 came in at about 72 lbs but the # 6 came it at around 90lbs On the wet test all came in at 90 lbs including the # 6. I am rather new to this and this is the first time I have done a compression test, so my questions are- why would the # 6 not change from a dry to wet test. The warranty expires next week on this engine and I wanted to do this test prior to the warranty expiring.Is this something to be concerned about? Thnaks zdude1967
- back fire through the exhaust on deceleration
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back fire through the exhaust on deceleration
Thanks for the advice. This is my first rebuild that I have installed myself, so I am not sure of what should be included. If the valve adjustment should not be included then that's cool even better since it indicates I am wrong and not the engine rebuilder. My pride has no problem being wrong, I rather be wrong then question the rebuilders integrity or skill. So with that said the engine rebuilder said the car is running rich as the exhaust smells like gas. Can popping occur with a too rich mixture or does it just happen when you are to lean. I adjusted the floats with the ZT video but the video is showing ball valves I have the old school needle valves and adjusted the float height to 9/16. The fuel flow is off at this height and begins to flow fuel once the float drop from the 9/16 position. Does this sound right? Thanks zdude1967
- back fire through the exhaust on deceleration
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back fire through the exhaust on deceleration
I am bring the car back to the engine rebuilder for the valve adjustment. I just got off the phone with them and they claim a valve adjustment is not included if you install the engine they rebuilt yourself. I know this is off from the carb issue but how would installing the engine yourself hsave abvything to do with the valves being done corectly on an engine rebuild
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back fire through the exhaust on deceleration
I own a synchometer, I think it is an SK brand from Germany. I may have gotten it from motorsports. Would having 2.5 inch exhaust with headers and a glass pack make it pop on deceleration or is popping strickly carb / lean fuel / vacuum leak related? I turned it back to 2.5 and went from there I actually redid the whole carb sync thing. It still pops. To be honest it was hard to hear when the idle smoothed out and increased when turning the mixyure nuts because my valves are so noisy. Which is concerning as the engine has 500 miles on a fresh rebuild. When I got it back from the rebuild the valves were to tight???,so the car ran on 5 cylinders. Perhaps needless to say but my faith in the engine rebuilder may be fading, that is unless the valve adjustment is common on a fresh rebuild-which I assume it is not, or is it? In any case I will be trying to find a vacuum leak and/or readjust the carbs then maybe bring it back for the valve adjustment as I only have a month left on warranty.....ah fun!!!! any additional suggestions or comments/ insight into the valve noise or popping would be greatly appreciated zdude1967
- back fire through the exhaust on deceleration
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back fire through the exhaust on deceleration
My duel SU round top 3 screw runs crappy and is backfiring through the exhaust when you pull your foot off the pedal(deceleration) what does this mean, does it mean it is running rich? Any help would be appreciated. It is also running rough and seems to want to stall. I just adjusted the carbs and float.I set the floats at 9/16 they do not suck full at that point but begin when the float starts to drop, I used the FSM for the carb sync. any ideas ZDUDE1967
- pick up lines in fuel tank
- pick up lines in fuel tank
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240z bumpers on a 260z
Thanks everyone, LeonV please let me know how they work out when you mount them Zdude1967
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240z bumpers on a 260z
Hi Can both front and rear 240z bumpers be installed on a 260z. If so what is the process, are any customs brackets needed. Thanks zdude67
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Tach, fuel gauge etc go out intermittently
By going out I mean non functioning the tach is at zero and the other gauges are below the zero mark. The choke light does not turn on. It seems to be when the car is started, you start it and then see that the gauges are not working. Then they just come on. The Amp gauge is not affected by this, it continues to work. I had some other electrical issues that you helped me with Steve, that was in June 2011. It was no power to the start switch, I finally found a bad wire in the harness where it comes out of the firewall by the starter. The battery has been a little low lately as I left the interior light on one night. I charged the battery since then but am experencing some fuel /stalling issues and in trying to start the car over and over the battery runs down. I do not believe the stalling / gas issue is related to the gauge issue as if the gauges are working or not it does not seem to have effect on performance, I believe therefore the issues are not connected. In any case I am unsurfe how to check for voltage. If I start the car and pull off the negative battery terminal while it is running if it continues to run does that mean the alternator/regulator works fine. Your thoughts Glenn
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Tach, fuel gauge etc go out intermittently
OK my tach,fuel gauge,temp and oil preasure as well as the choke light have stopped working a few times in the last couple days. Then they just start working again, wow its the magic Z. In any case this magic is not quite as entertaining as it is a pain in the butt. Any ideas what it could be, the car is a 1974 260z. Thanks Glenn
- Over Revved and no compression
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Air in fuel lines and sputtering at high and now low speeds
Thanks everyone, I just have a few more questions based on some recent issues and discoveries. In my attempt to determine if the pick up tube was clogged or perhaps not working properly I disconnected the line from between the gas tank feed to the metal fuel line. When I did this the fuel ran very freely all over the ground, a lot of fuel. Am I correct in assuming that the pick up tube is working correctly as there does not seem to be any shortage in the flow of fuel from it. From there I disconnected the fuel pump line from the fuel rail and cranked the engine. The fuel flowed in spurts which seemed to be in time with the offset at the end of the cam where the fuel pump -pump lever meets the round thing. I am trying to determine why my car keeps stalling which seems to be getting worse.So does the pick up tube and the fuel pump seem to be working correctly. Please advise Thanks
- Air in fuel lines and sputtering at high and now low speeds
- Air in fuel lines and sputtering at high and now low speeds
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Air in fuel lines and sputtering at high and now low speeds
I posted the other day about sputtering at high speeds (100mph) and received some great suggestions. Thanks There seems to be an issue I just discovered, bubbling in the fuel line, I guess it is air. I orginally thought this to be vapor lock as I am in AZ and it is very hot. However the other day I took the car out and it began running poorly in seconds, well before vapor lock should have occured. I have included a photo it seems there may be air in the line and it is causing bubbles and I guess that is causing an inconsistant fuel flow. I am guessing I have a hole in a line or some loose connection that is causing air to be sucked into the fuel lines. Has anyone had an issue like this, or any suggestions. I do not see fuel line for sale for me to replace the current lines. In any case any insight would be appreciated. I guess this could be why the car begins to sputter as the fuel demand increases at the upper mph level. Thanks Glenn
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sputtering at 95 mph and higher
Thanks everyone. I will try all the suggestions. Probably begining with the floats. I just got the SU cd from Z therpy so I am hoping this will help me with the float height. As an additional item I think I am experencing vapor lock as it is very hot in AZ now and after driving awhile the car begins to run the same was as it does at high speeds. I have a additional fuel filter by the mechnical feul pump and it is clear glass, you can see the fuel bubbling as if it is boiling when the car begins to crap out. I guess there isx no cure for this other then to move somewhere cooler.
- sputtering at 95 mph and higher