Jetaway

Back in July I posted in the "Help" forum under "Engine Cuts Out." Much help was given and I eventually decided to replace the ignition module. Here, copied from that post is what I did. === I am going to have to call this one solved. Since replacing the E12-80 ignition module with a GM LX-101 ($15.00) a couple of days ago I've put 350 -- 400 miles on "Smiling Jack," with outdoor temperatures poking into the low triple digits, and I haven't experienced one instance of the engine cutting out. I used "Using a HEI Ignition Module with a Factory Electronic Distributor" by Brendan Parrot as a basic guide: http://www.dimequarterly.tierranet.c.../tech_hei.html One difference was I mounted the GM HEI directly on the distributor in the place of the old E12-80. I mounted the GM HEI on an aluminum plate 3 7/8ths by 2 3/8ths. Dimensions aren't real critical, though you'll run into clearance problems with a much bigger plate. I always have a bit ... bit of fun, that's it, a bit of fun getting drilled holes to line up exactly, but I think for mounting the plate to the distributor, 2 3/8ths will do. Though you may want to take your own measure. You'll want to replace the existing screws with M4X10 (or M4X8) pitch = .7 because the E12-80 is considerably thicker than the aluminum plate and it won't snug up if you use the original bolts. Mount the LX-101 on the aluminum plate using whatever works, though you'll need to keep the bolts short for clearance. Make some new electrical connectors however you feel fit and you're pretty much done. === I've probably put another 1000 miles on Jack since then, in even hotter weather, and haven't had the problem reoccur. I used an aluminum plate because the Parrot article strongly recommended having a heat sink attached. Why he didn't think of using the heat sinked GM HEI to cover up the space left open on the distributor after taking the E12-80 out, I don't know. My best guess is that there simply wasn't enough space on the 4-cyl distributor. Chris

I wrote: I am going to have to call this one solved. Since replacing the E12-80 ignition module with a GM LX-101 ($15.00) a couple of days ago I've put 350 -- 400 miles on "Smiling Jack," with outdoor temperatures poking into the low triple digits, and I haven't experienced one instance of the engine cutting out. I used "Using a HEI Ignition Module with a Factory Electronic Distributor" by Brendan Parrot as a basic guide: http://www.dimequarterly.tierranet.com/articles/tech_hei.html One difference was I mounted the GM HEI directly on the distributor in the place of the old E12-80. I mounted the GM HEI on an aluminum plate 3 7/8ths by 2 3/8ths. Dimensions aren't real critical, though you'll run into clearance problems with a much bigger plate. I always have a bit ... bit of fun, that's it, a bit of fun getting drilled holes to line up exactly, but I think for mounting the plate to the distributor, 2 3/8ths will do. Though you may want to take your own measure. You'll want to replace the existing screws with M4X10 (or M4X8) pitch = .7 because the E12-80 is considerably thicker than the aluminum plate and it won't snug up if you use the original bolts. Mount the LX-101 on the aluminum plate using whatever works, though you'll need to keep the bolts short for clearance. Make some new electrical connectors however you feel fit and you're pretty much done. I'll probably splurge and buy the heavy-duty LX 101 ignition module ($35.00) and keep the original one around as a spare. Chris Hebert

Interesting, I assume an electric pump. Drove around a bit yesterday with the temps in the mid-90s. No cut-outs. Today, it will be even warmer,, currently 83 degrees en route to a predicted high of 103. Getting ready to take a long drive to the nearest Fry's electronics (child looking for a PS3 game unavailable in town). If the trip is uneventful, I'll be willing to call the problem solved by replaced the ignition module. If not, I'll investigate the fuel supply, including the pump, again. Chris

No, but pulling the gas tank to figure out why it is so difficult to fuel up and eliminate an overpowering gasoline smell when filled and especially after spirited driving has been on my to-do list for a couple of months. Just haven't been able to coordinate help, a reasonably empty tank, and not having a more pressing problem to solve to get it done. Have made some headway on the gas tank problem. The vapor? line that makes a 180 degree turn was pinched off during an installation at some time. Figure that can't be good. Chris

Has cut out both when moving and sitting still. Haven't felt up the wires, but will do so. Fuel pump is annoyingly loud and yes, it keeps running. Everything else seems to work, though now that I think about it, it hasn't happened at night, so it's possible lights cut out. Done a bit of wiggling, haven't been able to kill the engine. I saw a reference on classic z cars to using a GM HEI (LX-301) ignitor that costs $16.00. Eventually came across the following instructions: http://www.dimequarterly.tierranet.com/articles/tech_hei.html I figured what the heck, if it works, great, if not, $16.00 is pretty cheap for a diagnostic flyer. I patched it in so that I could quickly revert to E12-80 without much in the way of tools. Happy to say that it does work. Unfortunately we are experiencing an unusually cool stretch of weather and am unwilling to make a declaration whether or not the problem has been solved. It is supposed to hit triple figures and stay there by mid-week, so I should be able to make a call on whether the problem has been solved by Friday. Chris Hebert P.S. The referenced article mentions making a plate to cover up the space in the distributor normally occupied by the E12-80. If the GM ignitor is a keeper, I think its possible to kill two birds with one stone by mounting it on a heat sink in such a manner as to also cover up the open space on the distributor. Sure would make for a neater installation.

Hi, I have a 240Z modified with a 280ZX dizzy. In retrospect, the problem may have been showing over the last 2 months, but it has only become acute within the last 10 days. The problem isn't reproducible, but is predictable. The engine will cut out, completely, not just a power fade, for between 1/2 second (maybe less) to at least 20 seconds. When cutting out for 1/2 second, the engine fires back up if I'm moving because of a compression start. Feels like a stutter, which may have thrown me off on the diagnosis. These short cut-outs usually occur in clusters of 3 to 4 times and have possibly been occurring sporadically for a couple of months. Within the last week and a half, in addition to episodes of stutter-cuts, I've been unable to restart the engine for up to 20 seconds using the starter. (I stop trying after 20 seconds, no sense beating a dead horse.) A minute later, it fires right up and I'm on my way. I've driven, probably for anywhere from five to ninety minutes after a cut-out and it may or may not occur again. The problem appears to be heat-related, specifically under-hood temperature and not just operating temperature related. I say this because: 1) summer is finally arriving here in the Great Central Valley with highs pushing 90 (still, unusually mild for July) and 2) the problem has, so far, only occurred after the classic heat stress scenario of 30+ miles of highway driving followed by stop and go urban driving. It is definitely increasing in frequency, however. My Z also has an electric fuel pump installed with wiring of somewhat dubious expertise. When the problem started, I suspected it may be the cause, but I've checked and rewired where necessary and also replaced the fuel filter, if only for good luck. I've also ruled out a fuel supply problem because the cut-out is so abrupt and total. The distributor cap and rotor were worn after 30k miles, so I replaced them. I've checked and tightened connections to the battery, distributor, and coil. Still getting the cut-outs, in fact they are becoming increasingly common. Other than the total loss of power (other than!, that's funny) the car runs fine. Power may be off a trifle, but that could be anything from my imagination to a change to summer gasoline to normal aging through a tune-up cycle. I'm close to 100% positive that the problem is electrical and strongly leaning towards either the coil or electronic ignition module. It would seem awfully odd to me for the coil to fail with these symptoms. But since in 30+ years of owning used cars, I've never had a coil fail on me, I really wouldn't know how a bad coil would manifest itself. Nonetheless, the symptoms seem more typical of a transistorized unit. The module is marked E12-80, which I've seen as the part number in a couple of posts. Before biting the bullet and running down what appears to be a difficult to find and somewhat pricey part, I'd thought I'd ask those who know far more about cars and Z's than me if I've overlooked something. Something, hopefully, cheaper and easier to locate than an E12-80. Chris Hebert

Thanks. I'll probably look around the real and virtual worlds for another week or so before pulling the trigger. Chris Hebert

Having problems quoting here. 1) If it is lowered, its not by much. Seems to ride too high in front to my eyes, but the ground to fender distance is right in the ballpark with figures I found on this site. 2) There is a brutal chin spoiler of my own design. 7 inches ground clearance and the front edge plane bisects the turn signals. Speed bumps hold no terror for me. 3) Quite sure they are the true 14*6 Iron Cross wheels. Chris Hebert

Hi all, I have a 1972 240Z. Aftermarket springs, very stiff of unknown origin. Not sure about the shocks either. It rolls on 280Z Datsun "Iron Cross" wheels with P205/70/14 Ohtsu Negotiator N70s. The Ohtsu's seem like good enough tires -- for a small pickup truck. I did a little looking around today and found a set of P205/60/14 Nexxen N-3000s. I definitely want a shorter set of tires (my speedo is 25% slow, probably due to the 5-spd and the tall tires currently installed). The Nexxen's have unidirectional tread, which is supposed to indicate a performance tire. Any first-hand information will be much appreciated. My top priority is handling and resistance to nibbling (following grooves in the pavement). Prefer a quieter running tire. Treadware -- middle, 30,000 miles would be fine. Not much of a priority is a smooth ride -- its a Z, not a Caddy, jack. It will never see snow and wet performance isn't very important either. We average about a negative inch a rain a year between April and October and besides, I figure even a crappy modern rain tire is as good wet as the best rain tires were when the Z was new. I'm not married to the Nexxen's or the size. Not sure how much wider I could go, though. Would I have enough clearance with 215s? Going shorter isn't a problem. I have a quote of a hair over $300 mounted, balanced, and aligned. Chris Hebert

Thanks, Arne and now that you mention it;) Hopefully a photo: Brutal, cheap and effective. Cost for the parts was under $15.00 (excluding the rubber sheathing which I had around -- figure another $5.00 if you want) and it nails the front end to the ground. Big improvement in crosswinds, even seems to cut down on exhaust odor. Hasn't cured my rhoomytism, though. and I'm sure its extracting a mileage penalty, but in all honesty, I haven't noticed one. I didn't mention it in the original post because if it had turned out that the unloaded coils were a source of the floaty problem, the spoiler could have been covering up the problem.

Thanks for the answers. The problem with searching is that unless you know the magic word or phrase, you miss a lot of relevant posts. I did find a post from Carl Beck with 1972 spring specs which I'll use as a reference for my springs. Chris

Four months ago I bought a 1972 240Z. Never owned a 'Z' before and all I can say is: "Where have you been all my life, baby?" It's been modified by previous owners: 5 spd., electronic ignition, both presumably from a 280Z, cross-drilled front rotors, and the object of my question here. The Z corners as if on rails and has somewhat of a rough ride. But I have no idea if the cornering and ride are unusual or typical for a 240Z. The only -- ah, anomaly, -- in it's handling is a tendency to get loose and a little floatly above 70 -- 75MPH, with even mild crosswinds increasing the looseness. If I jack up the front end so that the wheels hang free, I can easily rotate the coil springs 360 degrees. This doesn't seem right to me as every repair manual that I've seen that deals with MacPherson struts includes wording to the effect of: "UNLESS YOU KNOW EXACTLY WHAT THE HECK YOU ARE DOING, WORKING ON MACPHERSON STRUTS IS A GOOD WAY TO TAKE YOUR FOOL HEAD CLEAN OFF," because the coil is compressed before installation on the car. Another Z-car owner took a look at the springs for me and said they weren't stock, didn't look as if they had been cut or otherwise jury-rigged to fit and thus probably are for a Z, but didn't know what brand they are. I haven't pulled them, only inspected them while mounted on the car and I haven't been able to spot any markings whatsoever (which doesn't mean there aren't some right in front of my face). Physically, they are a deep blue that looks awfully close if not identical to the _color of_ the springs pictured here: http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=31609 but they do not have the variable radius coils. Or, put differently, they look like 'normal' coils. A couple of questions: 1) Any ideas on what brand or type (street, competition, etc.) of springs these are? 2A) Is the lack of pre-mounting compression on the springs a cause for worry on my part? 2B) Alternatively, are there some non-stock coils that don't require compression before installation? Chris