Jetaway

A couple of probably obvious questions for many, but not for me. I've looked in Autocar, Chilton's, the FSM, and other assorted manuals but cannot determine the answer to what seems to be a simple question: 1) To check for timing chain stretch is it necessary to remove the front cover, or can it be done by removing the valve cover? 2) If the above is yes and the chain is stretched, is it necessary to remove the front cover to adjust for stretch? Chris

Could be separate issues. In your first post you said you heard the pinging while going up a slight hill in high gear coming back from a show but didn't the next day in similar weather conditions. But it wasn't clear if the test drive included a grade. If not, I wouldn't be surprised, the uphill ping just suggests you were running right on the edge of a too-lean mix. You wouldn't have A/C would you? You may have a throttle return valve that slows down the return to idle. Like the vac advance, it has, or mine does, at least, has a rubber seal that could wear out. That might explain the not returning to idle. Now the jump up / fall down idle is a puzzler. Well, it could be the throttle return valve or the vac advance suddenly losing engine vacuum, which would increase the rpm's at idle. A stretch, for sure, but if I had to go one way or the other, I'd go with a vacuum leak somewhere rather than something electronic. If nothing else, should be cheaper to investigate. Chris

I did a test patch on part of the rear bumper rubber strip six months ago. Looked better when I put it on, hasn't seemed to age in any way, so I'm going to go ahead and do all of them. True, this is rubber, not plastic, but I can't think of any reason why it wouldn't work well. Could be tough to mask off the lettering and symbol, though. 3M Super 33+ electrical tape is the boss. Once you have used it, not only will you not buy the cheap PVC stuff again, you'll toss out any of it that you have. But I'm not sure if it is designed to hold up on top of an engine. Went to 3M's web site. Rated to 220 F, so, depending on whether you are an optimist or a pessimist, it's either good to go or a little shaky on top of an engine. It does come in a 1 and 1/2 inch width, though good luck finding it retail. Chris

I myself have a few of those little darlings hanging about (literally) and hadn't thought about using plasti-dip as a coating on them. Looks like an add to the spring to do list. Chris

Just thought I'd do a follow up on a post I made a little over two years ago. I wrote about Nevr-Dull and Plasti-Dip: http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/open-s30-z-discussions/43443-two-favorite-cosmetic-uses.html Two years later, going on three to four years after application, the Plasti-Dip is still a nice, solid black, unfazed by washing or heavy sun exposure. Chris

No real help here redzedsled, but I am curious if you tried the 6024LHs. Plugging them in wouldn't hurt the electrical system, but you shouldn't get much light out of them. I calculated down and dirty 18 to 20 watts, which wouldn't produce much of a glow. The other thing that puzzles me is the 24V rating. I remember reading four or five years ago that 24V was the 'next thing' for automobiles because of less power loss due to resistant and weight savings because thinner wire can be used for conduits and in motors. Plans were apparently abandoned in mass because 24V is much, much, more likely to arc -- painfully or dangerously or both. Chris

Actually finished up on the job a couple of weeks ago, but only had time for extensive driving in the last week. It took me awhile, probably longer than it should have because I have a tendency to sit and contemplate my next move, particularly with electrics. With the old fuse box I used the rank amateur method of hooking a wire under the fuse for a connection. Couldn't do that with the MSA modern type fuse box. I looked around under the dash, looked at schematic(s), tested circuits, looked under the dash, etc. I ended up using the following connections. As the trigger for the audio head unit and the Sun tach I installed where the original clock was located I needed an ignition-on hot connection. Wasn't quite where I expected, but I found the body-side connector for the factory radio sticking out (barely) outside the console on the passenger side. I found a matching connector that wasn't hooked up to anything (What did it do? Where did it go? I know not.) removed it used it to hook the audio and tach up to the original ignition-on circuit. I have switch controlled interior LED lighting that I wanted on an always-hot circuit. Figured the clock body wire would do the trick and it does. Finally, I have floor well LED lights that I wanted controlled by the door switches. This one puzzled me for a couple of days until I realized that the positive side should be an always-hot circuit because the door switch circuit operates off the ground. It joined the other interior LED lighting on the clock circuit. Besides the blower connection, worthy of its on post, I pulled four or five wires to nowhere out of the console area. I further suspect, though I didn't check, that somewhere in there is a pair of wires running to the fuel tank for a pump as the non-US cars used. I say this because I've seen some wires poking out near the tank that wouldn't seem to have any other purpose. The upshot is that nothing exciting happens. He starts, he runs, he doesn't smoke in inappropriate locations. Sometimes being boring is just right. Chris

I'm thinking that B/Y goes to the ignition switch for the start position. There's a Y wire (71 schematic) from the voltage regulator to the alternator, but why it run to the other side of the firewall is beyond me. By "not hooked up to anything" do you mean at either end or only at a known end? If the former, did everything electrical work prior to disassembly? If so, then I wouldn't worry about them. Otherwise, <shrug>. Sorry, can't help you on this one either. Seems like a heck of a lot of yellow coded wires, doesn't seem that common in mine. You said something about it "used to be a manual?" So, I'm assuming it is presently an automatic? Maybe whoever did the swap used yellow wire for swap. Good luck! I'm doing a little wire mining myself this weekend. Chris

Nope, always a manual. Could be the flasher and I'll check it out, but I have my doubts. First, the insulation on the wiper wire was heavily damaged, crispy even, while the flasher wire insulation appeared to have been melted from the outside in. I know this at an intellectual level, but I've seen installing a new alternator followed by wiring problems within the month before. Could well be marginally higher voltage with the new alternator. I hadn't adjusted the external regulator in the four years I've had the car. Can't say any dramatic difference, the headlights seemed a little brighter, but that could well have been expecting them to be brighter. Could have snuck in but in four years I've been through just about every electrical connection and I'm a fanatic about cleaning them up. Doesn't mean something isn't hiding in the bowels though. The flasher circuit should be in good shape, the lights in the tail are LED and I replaced the old flasher with a modern electronic one about a year ago. I was afraid of that. Solderdrops falling on my head ... (Apologies to B. Bacharach, I believe it was.) I have an idea on how to avoid slice, tap, and solder with the radio trigger. All Z's, at least the U.S. models, came standard with AM/FM radios. My original radio was gone, replaced by a Phase Linear unit which most assuredly does not use the original wiring harness. I've found a few orphaned connectors in the console. One, fairly large, is a T connector. Then there are two, rather smallish, flat 3-pinners with only the outside positions used. Could the T connector be power, switched through Accessory and the other two the speaker connections to the original? Chris

HAHAHAHA! Thank you, but first my brothers and sisters, join me in laughter to dry away my tears. HAHAHHAAA! Deciding that this was a better time than most to go through and clean up or out the electrical hacks that I and POs had done, I've spent a good deal of time on my side or my back peering into the hidden interior of my Z. After determining that a hanging butt connector probably went to a nearly hidden butt connector above it connected to a buzzer (my guess -- key in ignition with door open) my gaze shifted to the steering column and: "What is this? A six-pin connector not connected to anything?" Indeed it was and should have connected to the ignition switch. HAHAHA! Cripes. No doubt, given the damage I've discovered it was time to replace the old fuse box and to the extent I was pushed forward by the breakdown, I am glad. But the $500 in fines, confiscation fees, freeing the Z from jail and the tow home -- arrrgghhhh! But now I'm struck by a puzzling thought. My Z would turn over normally, it just wouldn't fire up. If the connector had slipped off, how would the starter turn over? Different connection perhaps? Chris

Greetings, Hope everyone had a chance to run around in their Z this Labor Day weekend! I didn't;( The fusebox in my 1972 240Z decided to part ways 50 miles from home last week. It appears as if the wiper circuit (Accessory) overheated, melted, and shorted into the flasher (Ignition) circuit causing a quick end to the outing. (Not to mention the ignominy of having it hoisted high onto a flat bed like a vanquished enemy and delivered home. The shame, the shame...) I've already ordered the upgraded box from MSA and should be able to get to it later this week. No fuse blew during the meltdown, in fact, I wasn't using the wipers, and haven't in months, which makes me suspect it was a moldering (smoldering?) long-term issue which finally raised its head. I hadn't overamped the fuses either. No burning odor either. A few questions: 1) I replaced and upgraded the OEM alternator with a 60 amp ZX version. A friend of mine claims this might be the problem. I think a few more amps pumping through the system, at most, hastened the wires demise, but would have eventually occurred. Probably in December. In the rain. 2) Having no desire to see a new $200 part go up in smoke, I'd like to be able to trace the problem to something in particular. Other than the burned wire(s) though, I don't know how to proceed. Neither of the big power users (headlights and wiper) were in use at the time and my audio, a somewhat modest user of power, is in-line fused directly to the battery save for the head unit trigger. Any usual suspects to start with or suggestions on what to test for and where? 3) I will admit to the rank amateur method of tapping into the old box using the wire under the fuse technique. That won't be possible with the new-style fuse MSA box. One circuit is interior and instrument LED lighting which I switch manually. This I can wire to the battery if need be. The second are LED footwell lights which I controlled by tapping into the dome light circuit and the third is the radio head unit trigger, which I had on the Accessory circuit. Is it possible, or I guess I should say, possible and wise, to run these wires to the underside of the MSA fusebox to retain their functionality? If not, where would be a handy and safe place to tap into the dome light and Accessory circuits? Thanks! Chris

I picked up a blower switch for my 72 at a junkyard. The medium and high positions shorted out, but low wouldn't pass any current. Taking it apart (CAUTION: SPRINGS AND BALL BEARINGS!) I discovered what I took to have been grease liberally applied throughout. I cleaned it out, because if it were grease, it had begun the process of reverting back to its natural state. It makes sense to me that the strictly mechanical ball bearing side would use a bit of regular (lithium complex) auto grease, but is that what was applied to the electrical contacts? Or a different sort of grease (a dielectric?)? Or could I lube it with a 'contact cleaner with lubricant' that I've used on audio equipment? Chris

Perhaps a little late, but I just discovered something which could have led to your problem. Background: A couple of months ago I had a dim headlight, pulled fuse, still on but dim. Cleaned connectors, blew out the fuse box area, got'em to work. A week ago I had a total breakdown 50 miles from home. Suspected electrical, suspected fusebox and was close enough to right. While it didn't cause the stoppage, when pulling the fusebox for replacement and inspecting the wiring harness, I discovered a small amount of melting in the body harness across the headlight wires. Several years ago I had high-beam switch meltdown, which I know suspect may have caused the melt years before and it was just chance that they came together to short, and chance that my cleaning moved them far enough apart to not short. Just something to check if you haven't solved it. Chris

I know of no standards for rating auto audio power outputs but if the unit is capable of an honest 100 watts (2 X 50w or 4 X 25w) I recommend running a fused line straight to the battery. Even if it isn't, it keeps it a little cleaner by the fusebox this way. To answer your question: Tap a circuit that is live with the ignition off. Headlights, hazard lights, parking lights, dome / interior are usual suspects. I'd avoid the headlight circuit simply because they have a pretty heavy draw themselves and while you wouldn't notice if the dome light circuit fuse blew while blowing along at 80 mph at 2:00 in the morning, you definitely, and not in a good way, notice if the headlight circuit blew. Chris

Many excellent suggestions, but I've got to second this one. If, perhaps I should say 'when' it goes your options, assuming your Z doesn't go up in flames, are: 1) to fork out $100 -- $200 for a used assembly probably in no better shape than your existing one; 2) shell out $500+ for a new one; 3) work out some ugly switch hack or; 4) never drive your Z at night, dusk, or here in California, in the rain, ever again. Two related notes: 1) This is the switch that a headlight relay system prevents from burning out. 2) Datsun used the same assembly in pickups of roughly the same era. Or at least one pickup. The switch assembly looked nothing like that of my Z but underneath, exactly the same except fo the wires coming off the back in the opposite direction. Chris

I had the same problem, warm air out the passenger side, cool air out the driver side. Tried many things, some of which worked a little, but the breakthrough was foam. Do you get a little cold air out of the vents even when the lever is moved to 'room?' If so, I suspect the problem is rotted out foam on the flap that controls the flow of air to the vents or 'room.' Buy some self-adhesive weatherstripping foam (1/2" open cell or 3/8" closed cell seems to work), pull the blower out, do your best to scrape the old stuff off with something, and use something that allows you to grip pieces of foam and guide them onto the flap as replacements. I know. You're thinking how the heck rotted flap foam created your problem. <Shrug> All I can say is I had the same symptoms and replacing the foam solved it. Chris

I just answered your other thread regarding the L26 vs. L24 in your other thread. Regarding your tune-up questions. Valve gap is the same. The factory timing for the 260 was very much predicated on emission control. That train has long left the station in this case and I would use 240 timing as a starting point and because of its modifications tweak it by performance from there. I can't see why your L26 shouldn't have more power than the L24. In effect you have a stroked '70-72 L24 and not a smog-choked '74 260. Chris

Is the stamp between the 5th and 6th cylinders, on a milled area, and followed by a five or six digit number? If so, then I'm pretty sure the engine came from or is for a 260. I have a '72 and it has an ID plate on the right front shock tower with the VIN and engine number. I can't tell from your engine shots if you have one or not, it might be a little lower. Also, I was curious about the sticker on the hood. That's a tune-up / emission sticker, isn't it? I didn't think they came out until a couple of years later, but could well be wrong on that. Regardless, what year does it say? Nice car though. I'm positively jealous over the condition of the rubber and plastic I see in the engine compartment. Chris

4th opinion: Ignition, though if after checking the cheap and easy and not solving the problem, I'd check the cheap and easy fuel supply side. If still no satisfaction, I'd take a deeper look at the ignition side. Your symptoms sound awfully similar to ones I had when I installed what proved to be a dying vacuum advance pulled at the junk yard. Pull the hose, plug it and see what happens. You'll feel a little down on power, but if the misfiring stops, the vacuum advance was the problem. Chris

Captain Obvious's reply got my problem exactly right. I'm not sure what you are suggesting here. That by checking the oil level, I'm dragging up a plug of oil that pools on top of the "puck" and that is what is causing the loss? If so, no. I can fill to the top fill line, screw the cap back on, drive 500 -- 800 miles, unscrew the cap and the oil level will be near, at, or below the lowest fill line. At the same time, the engine becomes a little rough and sluggish, while the idle wanders a bit and will eventually go into a death spiral unless I intervene. I also would, had it ever threatened to occur, made sure that I wasn't globbing oil up out of the well to spill -- somewhere; down the outside of the chamber, I guess. As I wrote way back in the initial post, I'm using straight 20 weight motor oil per FSM. Chris

Captain Obvious's reply got my problem exactly right. I'm not sure what you are suggesting here. That by checking the oil level, I'm dragging up a plug of oil that pools on top of the "puck" and that is what is causing the loss? If so, no. I can fill to the top fill line, screw the cap back on, drive 500 -- 800 miles, unscrew the cap and the oil level will be near, at, or below the lowest fill line. At the same time, the engine becomes a little rough and sluggish, while the idle wanders a bit and will eventually go into a death spiral unless I intervene. I also would, had it ever threatened to occur, made sure that I wasn't globbing oil up out of the well to spill -- somewhere; down the outside of the chamber, I guess. As I wrote way back in the initial post, I'm using straight 20 weight motor oil per FSM. Chris

Thank you, Captain Obvious. At last a possible explanation. I haven't posted recently simply because I haven't driven the Z much. Got out for a couple hours on Friday and now have put on 600 miles since my last post and oil fill. Yes, it is low and needs filling. Bruce -- I'm sure you know how a Z runs without oil in its carbs and how much smoother and more powerfully it runs out with oil. Well, I'm also aware of the difference and while I haven't tried overfilling, letting the oil return to 'full,' and overfilling again, sincerely doubt that it has a noticeable effect on engine performance. Chris

Count me in with 5thhorsemann, Palmer, and others who have wrote that words to the effect that the most important nut for safety is the one behind the wheel. That said, and based on 13 years of 150 mile round-trip hammer & tong commuting, a Z is not a great choice for heavy-duty commuting. My other car, Stella, is a 2001 Pontiac Aztek. My Z can accelerate faster, corner harder, and brake a bit better and yet, spanning conditions from bumper-to-bumper crawling to high-speed (i.e., the #1 flow in the mid-70s) pre-peak commuting, Stella will get to the destination no later and usually sooner than my Z. It comes down to visibility, and, though I don't consciously use it, bulk (well, once in while, but only when someone has really managed to irritate me). In the Aztek I can easily see eight to ten cars ahead of me, judge traffic flows and plot out a strategy (which usually is simply staying in the #1 lane). In the Z, I'm pretty much stuck with what the car immediately in front of me is doing, and if he/she stands on the brakes, that's my first indication that something is amiss. In a similar scenario in the Aztek, I've already backed off and, if warranted, knocked a few mph off my speed with the brakes and know whether or not I'm clear to dive down into another lane before the car in front of me even lifts his foot off the gas. It's nothing specific to a Z, any low-slung car is going to be at a tremendous disadvantage during the serious commute hours. I actually felt sorry for some poor bastard who had a new Lotus (don't know the model, but it was one of the very newest) who got by me four times during a pissy commute. He had to work his arse off to get in front of me and time and time again, I serenely floated by at 35 or 40 or 25 mph as his lane slowed or ground to a halt. I could tell it really was getting to him that this ... this ... blob of a car was faster than his, but, it was. I'm guessing he was a weekender. Two-lane country highways? Z all the way. I can safely get around a slug in the Z in places that I don't even bother thinking of passing in the Aztek. Chris

I too am curious about the outcome of this thread, in the meantime, thought I would add this: I have a ZX distributor in my '72 that came with the E12-80 module. A couple of summers ago, I thought I felt the engine cut out for just a fraction of a second, but couldn't rule out faulty sensory equipment (mine, not the cars;)). Then, couple of weeks later, engine stall at speed, maybe 1/2 second but since I have a manual, the engine refired without any actions on my part. Continuing into the summer, the stalls became engine stops, requiring cranking the starter, often for a several seconds before catching. Finally, engine kills that only a 20 -- 40 minute stop would "cure." Did a little rewiring and replaced the E12-80 module with a cheap GM HEI module. Cured the problem until this summer when again, thought I felt momentary cut-outs. Replaced the cheapie with a higher grade HEI module. No problems since. So, my experience is that the E12-80s, maybe all ignition modules, won't necessarily fail without warning, but often/usually give advance, albeit sporadic and not reliably replicable symptoms before total death. Which, given what I know about electronic components, makes perfect sense. Chris

Maybe I missed it, but the only definitive "cause" for high carb oil consumption I recall reading was overfilling. No, that is not the cause in my case as I have not and am not overfilling the carbs with oil. Chris