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ozlime240z

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Everything posted by ozlime240z

  1. ozlime240z replied to bulzee's post in a topic in Carburetor Central
    Replace the plugs with brand new ones with 11mm gap, take it to a Dyno tuner, pay the $150 and get it tuned properly... once.... guess work will only get you so far. OzLime240Z
  2. ozlime240z replied to Zpeed's post in a topic in Australia & NZ
    So how much you want for the 16's? I have no idea what they'd be worth to you so I don't want to insult you with a to low price. OzLime240Z
  3. http://www.classiczcars.com/photopost/showphoto.php?photo=2105&size=big&password=&sort=7&thecat=500
  4. I unfortunately couldn't make it this year, too busy, I was actually race-preping another car for a mud-rally event.... anyway that's a different story. If anybody has photos can they post a few of them here, that would be great.
  5. Yea same, Interested... but how much?
  6. ozlime240z replied to HKSZ's post in a topic in Carburetor Central
    No they are not the same. They will mount to the same Intake Manifold, that part is standard, but little else is the same. They operate very simliarly tho. Here is how I see the common carbie brands. This might not be 100% correct so guys correct me where you see I'm wrong. - Dellortos were made in Italy, hence can be found on allot of italian machinery dating back to the 70's. Lancias, Alfa, Ferrari, Lambos. That sort of stuff. - Webers were made in Germany (maybe elsewhere under license) and can be found on allot of German Machinery. Porsche, VW, Early BMW. And Also Ferrari / Lambo etc even tho they weren't German. - Holleys were made in USA. Don't know what they came on originally but they where Huge after market. Still are. - Mikunis were made in Japan ?? I think?? So they were the Jap performance Carbs. Found on the Jap performance cars of the era. From a simplistic side of things, these four carbie manufacturers where very similar. They all had had side draft and down draft varieties and would bolt up with the same bolt pattern inlet manifold for their respective sizes (40's 45's etc) and type (side, down). Their operations where esentially similar (they mix fuel and air ) but I don't think any parts where interchangable. But yes, an aftermarket triple carb inlet manifold will work with carbs from any of these 4 manufacturers. They bolt up the same. OzLime240Z
  7. ozlime240z replied to HKSZ's post in a topic in Carburetor Central
    Ok so My Manx has drawn more interest in PM's than my Z So here is a link to a recent event run by the Brisbane (Australia) Chapter of the Manx Buggy Club http://www.manxclub.org/images/Events/WesWeekend22jun03/Weekend/index.htm Go the Buggies. PS. Z's rock too! I'm jsu lucky enough to own both!
  8. ozlime240z replied to Dreco's post in a topic in Open Chit Chat
    No but I can spell.... Butchered (each to their own I guess)
  9. ozlime240z replied to HKSZ's post in a topic in Carburetor Central
    I have triple Dellorto 45's on My 73 240Z. The Parts seem readily available in Brisbane (Australia). I rebuilt my carbs when I bought the car 12 months ago and the carby rebuild kits where about $AU 50ea. And that included all gaskets and a new throttle pump diaphram and also had instructions on how to set the float level. After the rebuild I got the car Dyno tuned and re-jetted. The main Jets where $AU 9ea. Here is the chart from the Dyno tune. Done in 3rd Gear. http://www.classiczcars.com/photopost/showphoto.php?photo=2291&password=&sort=7&thecat=500 So 12 months down the track I've found the Carbs excellent. I've driven the car rain or shine, hot days cold days everyday! and they perform brilliantly. They don't seem to be sensitive to hot or cold at all. I've had them on the track a few times and they seem good. I love the roar of an open set of triples! I don't have the Chokes hooked up either and it doesn't matter. I just jump in the car pump the throttle 4 times in summer or 6 times in winter and turn the key.. vroom... hold a bit of throttle on with your foot for about 10 secs then drive off. Taking it easy for the first 5 mins or so until the engine warms up. (I still have a thermostat, I don't beleive in destroying engines) I think the important thing with these carbs, or webers is when you get them do a complete rebuild, replace all seals etc, and re-set the float levels before you try and tune them. If you don't you'll be fighting them to ever get them tuned properly. And I suggest getting them tuned properly to start with, by a pro. I got mine tuned by "Brisbane Tuning and Turbo Center" for $AU300 on the Dyno, changing jets etc to get it right. I haven't touched them since, nor have I needed to It's best to keep the fiddling to a minimal once they are set up properly.... Wberes and Delortos, and I guess Mikuni's get a bad rap for being hard to tune... they are... so get them done properly once and you will be hassle free. Or fiddle around with em yourslef and you will never get them right. Here is a piccy of the Delorto setup http://www.classiczcars.com/photopost/showphoto.php?photo=2105&password=&sort=7&thecat=500 I have a Manx buggy that has a single downdraft Weber and it is allot more sesitive to hot and cold than the Z and it's only a single! ? So based on my experience with Webers and Delortos. Delortos are signifigantly less vunerable to changes in temperature / conditions. Here is a piccy of my Manx. http://home.acenet.net.au/m.morley/blbvw/photoshoot/DSCF1893.jpg and again http://home.acenet.net.au/m.morley/blbvw/photoshoot/DSCF1894.jpg And atached is a photo of my Delortos spread out across the Kitchen table when I was rekitting them. Just for the record it only took one lazy Saturday of watching motor racing on TV to tottally Rekit / Rebuild all three carbies. OzLime240Z
  10. ozlime240z replied to 1 Bravo 6's post in a topic in Open Chit Chat
    The other option of course is that she was completely oblivious to the fact she was spinning the wheels and had no idea what was going on, made no adjustments, and it all just happened to work out....
  11. Is there some way I can get a bigger version to make my desktop picture.... or print out and hang in the garage? It's great! OzLime240z
  12. ozlime240z posted a post in a topic in Open Chit Chat
    Now the new Z has been released in OZ there is has been allot of advertising on the Tele. I really like the Z "heritage" ad where the go through the old models (quickly) but I think it's good they got a 240Z into the ad. Anyway. My question to the group is... Does anybody know where I cen get a copy of the new Nissan ads (in particular the 350Z ones) on the net? Thanks OzLime240Z
  13. ozlime240z replied to That Ozzy Guy's post in a topic in Interior
    My Autralian 73 240Z doesn't have Hazards. It has a factory blanking plate over the spot where the hazard switch it marked to be located on the hood over the fuse box. There is also a factory blanking plate where the rear demister and choke light are marked to be. So recap- my 1973 has no: - Rear demister bars on the glass or a switch / light. - No choke on indicator light - No Hazards I beleive they where all factory options however. OzLime240Z
  14. http://www.240z.org/forums/showthread.php?threadid=3961
  15. ozlime240z replied to Zlishous's post in a topic in Open Chit Chat
    From experience with my Z. It used to diesel when I bought it, it was contributed to by a few things. Vacuum Advance. L's will diesel badly if they have the vacuum advance detached. My car has triple delhortos, so there is no easy way to attach the vacuum advance so I had to work around it (read on). But, if you have the standard carbs make sure the vacuum advance is working and not leaking. Idle. My car would diesel if the idle was about 1000rpm (or more). If you have a working vaccuum advance this shouldn't be such a problem. Fuel. Crap fuel will make it diesel. Unleaded fuel will promote dieseling. 240's where designed to run on Leaded petrol and LRP is not as 'good' as leaded, despite what the fuel companies say. Forget LRP, run it on premium unleaded, it will save you money now and in the future as I get more MPG out of premium. So go premium. LRP doesn't help VSR at all there are numerous studies to prove that. Fuel Cat's. I fitted a fuel cat to my Z. It's Voodoo majic, many people will dish me for this but it actually helped my run-on. I also fitted it to help VSR. I used a tin based one - Fuelstar.com.au -. They used these (tin cats) in the war to help the mighty merlin engines run on crap fuel so they must do *something*. OzLime240Z
  16. ozlime240z replied to Zvoiture's post in a topic in Open Chit Chat
    Worked around it. I beleive this is the picture we are sposed to be seeing, yeah? Just Call me Code monkey OzLime240Z
  17. ozlime240z replied to That Ozzy Guy's post in a topic in Old Want Ads
    Unique Cars Magazine. I don't beleive there is an online version you'll have to get it from your local Newsagent. It covers all states of OZ to. OzLime240Z
  18. Vroom! Sweet looking tractor. I'd love a split screen Kombi like the one that can be seen in the background too. Nice. OzLime240Z
  19. ozlime240z replied to 26ounce's post in a topic in Help Me !!
    A flat battery will make the car miss and not run well as there isn't enough power to charge the coil. It will be more noticable under load (as the spark is harder to create with more fuel in the chamber) or while revving (as the coil has less time to charge). The battery may be stuffed, highly likely if more than the warranty period old. Batteries generally only last their warranty period + 1 month. So if it's a good battery two years warranty then two years 1 month it will mysteryously die on you. Cheap battery, 12 month warranty, 13 months in it will mysteriously die. I had a problem a while back where my Z wouldn't charge. All it was was the plug on the back of the alternator that links it to the voltage regulator had come unplugged slightly. A bit of electrolube and push back in and it's fine now. I beleive it's a three pin plug. OzLime240Z
  20. I love westfields. One day I'm going to own a Lotus Super 7. and a Lotus Elise, and a Lotus Elan..... And a Ferrari GTO, and a E-type, a Porsche 356...... And a 350Z, STI, GTR, EVO ?, RX7....... and a Softop 60's Mustang, 60's Vette, ............ you get the picture I love cars. And I love driving them. OzLime240Z
  21. My Australian 1973 240Z has no rear de-mister and has no hazard switch either. Both holes are in the center console (fuse box cover) but both of the them and the choke light position have factory fitted covers over them. I'd like to hook up the Hazard lights, does anyone know what wires the switch attaches to and where the flasher unit goes. I have the haynes manual but the wiring in all 3 240Z schematics is different to mine. OzLime240Z
  22. ozlime240z posted a post in a topic in Wheels & Brakes
    All, I'm looking at getting a set of these pansports imported to Australia. I cannot find any mags out here that I like. I was wondering if someone in America could tell me the price of a new set, and where in the US I could order some. If the price turns out OK, I will then organise shipping. I have a mate going over there soon to pick up a Austin Healey 3000 so I will see if I can get them in the same crate. Thanks OzLime240Z
  23. ozlime240z replied to AussieZguy's post in a topic in Body & Paint
    This is a picture of my Australian 1973 Drivers side mirror. I beleive this was the original equipment mirror as spoken of earlier. If someone in the US has a matching left side mirror lying around then let me know as I could be interested. There is some more talk about it over here at this thread: http://www.240z.org/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=2867&highlight=mirror OzLime240Z
  24. There is some great photos of the 24hour event in this thread http://www.240z.org/forums/showthread.php?s=&postid=22401#post22401 OzLime240Z

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