Richard McDonel

View Advert 280 five-speed I acquired this transmission a number of years ago as part of a parts package. It does not fit in my 240. Casting number is 7226602. It has what appears to be a welded seam on one side (see photo), and for that reason I took to a reputable transmission shop for inspection. They disassembled it, found nothing wrong, and put it back together with new seals. Their invoice and notes are attached. Asking $500 Richard McDonel 403-347-6567 Advertiser Richard McDonel Date 07/17/2019 Price $500.00 Category Parts for Sale  

I've never used sealant on head gaskets, and haven't blown one since around 1970. Go dry.

Good restoration project. A weekend or two and she'll be as good as new.

Stole a measuring cup from Mama. What I drained from the seemingly full diff was 16 fl. oz = .47 litre. I have no idea where to put the other .53 litre.

I now have around 150 miles on my freshly (last year) restored '71 240. The differential seems quite noisy so I checked the oil level (finger tip reaches oil), then drained it. No sign of metal filings or debris on the magnet. I drained it into a four-litre ice cream pail and it only filled it to 15% capacity. I put in new hypoid lube, but in a 1 litre bottle I've still got 700 ml left with the diff filled right up to the edge of the fill plug. the FSM says it takes approximately one litre, or .21 gallon. Just to make sure the oil wasn't all backed up in the diff casing, I left the rear of the car on jack stands and lowered the front. Very little difference. I've still got well under half a litre in the car. I see there was some discussion on this topic in 2011, and people emphasized that actual capacity can vary depending on casting irregularities, but in the case of my car, the difference seems somewhat greater than a casting variation. Any thoughts? Thanks,

DaveWM Agree that is very much nostalgia driven. That's what drives the collector car market. Guys in their peak earning years can now go out and buy the cars they lusted for as 18 year olds. It's a market that comes and goes. Model A Fords used to be worth a lot more than they are today just because that demographic is past their wrenching, tinkering, and show'n' shining days.

240260280, Well, a 240Z with a hot-rodded BMW engine, and a faux GTO body - who knows, it might beat a real GTO at LeMans. And a lot cheaper to insure, as the most recent GTO sale I'm aware of was in August at RM Sotheby's Monterey auction: $48 mill + buyer's premium. Hot-rod Zs have a way to go to catch that.

ps, I'm Canadian, and our $ has shrunk, so $68,000 U.S. = $91,500 C. Never thought I'd own a $90k car.

OK Gang, we all just moved into the high rent district. Last week, BringaTrailer.Com listed a Ferrari 308 - pretty decent looking car. Bid topped out at $68,000. This week on BaT, a `70 240Z sold for $68,000. Time to have our insurance appraisals updated? Cheers

Thanks Granny (as always). The new bolt was always in the cards. 8.8 grade and bigger head (yea I know, it's not original, but who else is going to be crawling under the tranny?). "Time-cert" is a term I'm not familiar with, but will be looking it up asap. Best regards,

Threads on the captive nut at the right-side end of the transmission mount are in lousy shape. I tried to tap out the hole but it still looks ugly, and the bolt won't go in smoothly. I don't think I've got much left there. So my question is if install hel-coil, will it be strong enough to withstand the torque of the transmission? Many thanks

Granny, Thanks for the words of encouragement. The dent is actually quite shallow (shallow enough that it did not show up on the screen on the back of my camera), but it's still there. Certainly nothing that anyone would notice once mounted on a car. But it's still there and I should have noticed. It is originally from the Series 1 that I bought from my son in the hopes of restoring, but ultimately had to give it up to rust. My finished car is a Series 2, so it has the plastic fan.

Thanks for replying, Two things, First the colour. Actually, it is very close to the colour that was originally on it. It was definitely not yellow. As for the damage, this is embarrassing for me. I simply did not notice it until I pulled up my own ad and saw the photo, full screen size. Pretty hard to miss, one would think. But I've had this thing hanging up on my garage wall for several years, then I brought it down and took the picture, and just never noticed it. In fairness, The dent is not as pronounced as it appears in this picture. In any case, I'm open to offers.

Patcon, Understood! Job's done.

View Advert 240Z steel fan This is a Series 1 steel fan that has been professionally powder coated in the original colour. No damage. $50+ shipping or best offer 403-347-6567 Advertiser Richard McDonel Date 03/07/2019 Price $50.00 Category Parts for Sale

Thanks for sharing your thoughts fellows. As bolts that aren't torqued properly tend to come loose, I'll install fresh bolts, with lock washers and lock-tight, but keep the torque under 19 ft. lb. Sort of like wearing both a belt and suspenders. Cheers

A 240 for less than $1k? Good luck. You will get what you pay for.

I recently pulled my transmission, and to my own embarrassment noticed that when I installed the clutch last year, I had used a variety of bolt grades. Now that have the opportunity I figure that I should attach it properly. The clutch is held by 8mm bolts, and I began to install new 8.8 grade pieces. But I'm confused about torque. The FSM calls for 17.4 to 18.8 ft/lb, which to me sounds pretty loose. I then went into the Haynes and Clymer manuals, and they're all about the same. The chart I use for general torquing reference calls for 30 Nm, or roughly 40 ft. lb for 8 mm, 8.8 grade bolts. Can anyone tell me why, in a fairly heavy duty application such as clutch-to-flywheel, we'd be looking at half the normal torque? Thanks,

Six SUs on a 240Z? Sure. As long as you're the guy who has to tune them.

Thanks for your advice fellows. In the end, I laid the new left-side panel on a sheet of plywood beneath the discard, and drilled matching holes. As we all know, the plastic is pretty fragile, so I used a new drill bit and ran in at a slow speed. Worked just great. For the right side I drew a paper template, duct-taped it to the new piece, and again all went well.

Thanks gents, Namerow - I'm shocked that anyone would think the design of a 240Z was less than perfect.

Earlier this evening I posted a query about the vents on the rear quarter panels; specifically how does any interior air get to the exterior vents on Series 2 240s? I found an informative discussion dating back to May 2011 that indicated there should be a set of holes, similar to those for the radio speakers, on each interior (plastic) quarter panel at about the same elevation as the exterior vent hole. A couple of hours later. mulching through the cluttered outbuilding I euphemistically refer to as my workshop, I found one interior panel that I had dumped in with a pile of discarded parts (who says hoarding is a bad thing?), and yes it does have a block of small holes at vent height. The replacements I bought from MSA and installed do not have these holes. They are sold as being the correct part for all 70 - 73 240s, but in reality they appear to be appropriate only for Series 1 cars with vents just below the hatch window. I can use my discard as a template and drill holes. Just beware that if you have a Series 2, the parts on offer for all 240s won't work on your car.