antsorce

alright. well i think i'm just going to cap everything off, except for pcv, brakes, and dist advance. I'll run coolant through the intake and leave the cannon plenum's alone. I'll post my results if anyone has any interest. I know this isn't the most desireable carb set up but sometimes you gotta run what you got. again if anyone has any input it would be appreciated.

it seems difficult to find any information on this set up! I've done some more research but still have two questions. Question 1: It seems as though coolant runs through both the intake and the balance tube is this correct. Question 2: what if anything do the ports on the cannon intake connect to? please any information would be great.

I'm putting a pair of weber 32/36 downdrafts on a 280z. I have an n33 intake and the cannon mounts. theres also a connector bar on the intakes where the egr and linkage rod are attached. seems like a lot was plumbed into the connector bar water air ect. does anyone know a link that shows set up for this? or is this a similar setup i could find in a 240 or 260 manual. thanks for any help.

fair enough, i'll toss in a new filter and see where i'm at.

fuel filter was one of the first things I replaced when i bought the car 3 years ago. the car only gets driven in the summer here in milwaukee so theres limited miles on the filter. should be fine.

I'll give a little background on what she's doing and what I've done. car runs great cold but when it reaches normal operating temp the idle gets rough, (sounds like it has a cam but, i'm certain it doesn't) and it's hard to take off from a stop unless you coax up the rpm's a bit. (it also stumbles when cruising at low rpm's). I did the entire EFI system check through the ECU bus as per the fuel injection bible. The only item that didn't check out was the water temp sensor which i replaced but saw little to no improvment in the cars performance. next did a fuel pressure check and found it only to be running at about 20psi and not holding pressure. bad check valve in pump was the reason for not holding pressure. replaced pump holds pressure now (starts alot faster) but still low fuel pressure. then replaced fuel pressure regulator but still no improvement. so the only other two possible fuel delivery culprits i can think of are something in the tank itself or could the fuel dampner be restricting fuel flow. can i bypass the dampner just to do a pressure check or will it adversly affect something else. any ideas would be greatly appreciated. the car is completely stock except for a cold air intake, header, and exhaust. I realize ive probly lost some low end because of this but it doesn't explain the low fuel pressure right?

thanks for the fast response. guess I should do more reading of past posts instead of bugging everone with my novice questions.

I recently installed a kit from tokico including struts and 1" lowering springs on my 77 280z. when the car is on the ground the ride height looks fine and all seems to be well. however when installing the springs I did not need to compress the springs infact the spring is is moveable with the wheels in the air. is this normal? this might be a dumb question but this is the first time I've lowered a car and I'm just looking for confirmation that I'm not screwing something up.

ahh it's an insert. Wow I think I'm an idiot. Please ignore this post and pretend it never happened.

Hello all, Last fall I purchased a new set of 5 way adjustable struts with 1" lowering springs from tokico to install on my 77 280z. getting ready to install them this week and have a few questions. First off I'm planning on using the lower spring cups and hardware from the original struts I assume this is ok. It appears as though the lower spring cups are welded in place so i need to break the welds on the old and reweld onto the new. any advise on welding temp or feed rate? (never welded on struts before). Also any measurements on positioning the lower cups on the new struts. do I copy the originals or do i have to compensate for an inch drop? If anyone can give me any help or direct me to a post or website that already exists on this topic would be greatly appreciated. really want to have this thing up and running for the next local scca event.

I bought a 1977 280z this spring. drove it stock all summer and love it. however winter in milwaukee is coming and if i cant drive it i might as well upgrade it. looking to do struts, header, exhaust, and clutch. the car is going to be driven on the street primarily however i would like to attend a few scca events here in milwaukee next summer. I understand comfort may have to succomb to performance so basically im looking for a good middle of the road. tokicos sound like the way to go for struts but are the illuminas worth the extra money over the blues. how is the pacesetter exhaust, it seems to be the most common i see. also can any body tell me what early style bumpers will fit on my 77. any info is much appreciated thanx.

just bought a 1977 280z 5 spd over memorial weekend. the car has 80,000 miles and is very clean (amazingly clean for a car from milwaukee.) appears to be all original just needs a little tlc. The car sat for a while and runs a little rough, hard to start cold but runs well cold. once car comes up to normal operating temp the car seems to hesitate a bit especialy starting out in first from a stop and while shifting between gears. runs great on the freeway or when i excellerate hard. items replaced so far include vac hoses, fuel filter, egr, cap and rotor (Plugs and wires appeared to be new) a few things i am unsure of, first while cleaning the interior I noticed a wire linked to the radio fuse on the fuse box in the passenger seating area. followed the wire behind the seat and discovered that it is powering the fuel pump could this be contributing to the problem? second when i remove the gas cap there seems to be alot of pressure built up is the cap supposed to be vented? been reading alot about rust in the tank and clogged pic ups just wondering if anyone had any ideas before i go ahed and drop the tank. p.s. stoked to be a new z owner love the car been looking for on for a while finaly found a clean one