Ken

The defroster grid was installed (Vertical) in 240Z cars manufactured until December 1971. In January the grid was changed to horizontal (would be interesting to know why?) position. My 240Z was manufactured in October of 71 and has the vertical defroster grid.

1972(10/71) Datsun 240Z, Code 901 Metallic Silver

The "FAT LADY" is ready to sing!

Yes, there are two E-88 heads. An early, desired and a later one. I have a 72 240Z (manufactured in October of 1971) with the early E-88 head.

Way to go Kmack!! I do believe you will drive to the convention! Got to love that color!! Close to the Aztec Red on my 91 300ZX(Arrest me Red). Meter maids try to give me tickets even when it is parked (because they believe it exceeds legal speeds when in motion). I'll bet your getting anxious. Really making progress now. We have snow flakes today (32 degrees). Last week was 93 degrees. Thats New England for you.................

To avoid overfilling I use a medicine dropper to add ATF until the fluid level is between the two indicators just above the plunger. Less messy and who wants ATF running into the carbs and bell housings which can gum and cause sticking or slowing of the piston.

This may be the "scuff pad" located on top of the rocker panel along with the alumunin finish panel that is mounted there. I have seen occasions where the vinyl has seperated and the metal plate beneath has started to rust. If this is the case, the "scuff pads or panels" can be replaced.

ATF works well here in the NE for the temperature range that is encountered from May thru November. When I need to fill my SU's to achieve a point between the low mark and the high mark I use a medicine dropper and this does a neat and accurate job.

Another suggestion that works very well is to add a flex coupling between the collector and exhaust pipe. This takes the strain off the header when the engine revs and as motor mounts wear the movement can place stress on the header and studs>

I have a 72 240Z (build date 10/71). I use the MSA jet hoted header with a 30 in glasspack tucked up in the transmission tunnel and a Dynamax Super turbo muffler, 2 1/4 inch system. Excellent throttle response and not too loud. See my ride under members.

I have a nice set of Recaros installed in my ride. Check it out. I should be getting the Silver Bullet 240Z out of winter sleep soon if the weather cooperates. I will post some photo's of mounting as several have asked me.

When I had my intake manifold (E88 for a 72 240Z) bead blasted and polished I used JB Weld around the carb heat water pipe where it exits the rear intake and enters the front. There are tiny o rings that are damaged and not replaceable. If not for JB Weld spread around the pipe you would have leaks or not be able to use carburator heat.

P>S> DON'T drill the wisker strip! I used an awl to make those holes. Drill the holes thru the inner door steel first, fit the wisker strip and use an awl or sharp ice pick to make the holes in the wisker sttip adjacent to the holes you drilled in the inner door cover. Sorry for the ps but I diden't want you to ruin a wisker strip by having the material wrap around the drill!

To remove the old wisker strips you must remove the steel staples (mark lower edge w/masking tape to assist in locating new strip). Place new strip in place. Mark and drill several small holes(I used stainless steel pop rivits) I believe they were 1/8" depends on size of rivit. Then pop rivit from fuzzy side of strip. The head of the rivit gets pulled in snug and cannot be seen and does not touch the glass. Makes a nice neat, better than stock, job!

The inner brush is called a "wisker strip". You can buy these seperately.MSA page 107(Door Upper Moldings w/chrome strip and Door Panel Weatherstrips. Also Victoria British, page 18, items 9 and 10.

Right on with the front spook! I use the "BRE" with no ducts. I can feel a big difference at 60 and above both with the spook and without one. For my driving, I like and use the ductless "BRE" spook. The steering is much more firn (road feel?). I would not like to have the front wheels getting "light" on the road as they do with just the lower center valance.

Perhaps "Flintstone"!

I have a Alpine AM/FM/CD (model CDE-7853) mounted in my 72 240Z. It comes with a special mounting bracket that slides into the opening and locks. Then, you just slide the head unit in and it locks into the bracket mounting (very easy to remove by moving two pins). Now, you must file just a little of the original opening by using a flat file (does not require a lot as I recall). The stock radio with faceplate can still be used with no problem if you want to return to stock. By the way the radio faceplate is removabvle. I installed two Alpine 6x9 speakers in the M/S enclosure which fits in the rear hatch area, replaceing the taillight interior trim cover. Love the system.

I have a four core radiator that the original owner installed. Have been in 105 degree heat, four lane backups, stop and sit in Baltimore, New York city and Washington. The indicator moved one needle width higher. As soon as I was moving again the indicator returned to normal (between 1/4 and 1/2). The car originally had a/c which I removed.

You can check out my four spoke Libre wheels in the photo's under my name in members gallories. The tires are Yokohama's 195-70-14. You can get a good idea how they fill the wheelwells on my silver 72 240z. Congragulations on your car. Looks like a keeper! And, just enough left over that you can plan your upgrades and refreshing of those areas that you mentioned.

Wants $20,000.00!

I have used automatic transmission fluid in my 72 240Z SU's here in the Northeast. Temperatures seen run from 105 down to the upper thirtys. Excellent performance