AnthonyG

Thought I'd share an interesting issue I encountered with my turn signals. They would work fine with running light/headlights off. Turn on running lights only or with headlights and they would stop flashing. Running lights in front were dim I changed the flasher to a solid state (no load) to try it out, and it did the weirdest thing. Signal to turn left and the rear light would signal left, but the front would signal right. Signaling right would do the opposite as well. Also the running lights in front would flash too and they are not wired to do so. I figured out that the ground for the running lights, shared with the turn signals, was floating and it looks like it was grounding through the turn signal circuit, so when the turn signal was activated it would make the opposite light work. Tracked it down to a ground wire clipped in a bundle to the main ground wire off the alternator, wrapped in the wiring harness, that had broken loose. Soldered together and all better. Lesson learned- check those grounds.

The cap and rotor were new with the rebuild. However I was revving near redline for protracted periods. Ill check the distributor for play. I have an extra of that part on hand.

So I was in a high performance driving class with my z. 1976 280z. And had lots of fun, but revved the engine a lot. Near end of day engine was a bit rough. Drive home it started chugging and missing. At home I did compression test - good and consistent across cylinders (engine was rebuilt 10000 miles ago). checked spark plugs - a little brown and white, nothing odd. Still replaced with new Then went to cap and rotor and found something This looks to be the culprit. What I am asking is what else should I check. I have new cap and rotor on order( 2 sets on order from different places) problem I leave Tuesday night or Wednesday for a roadtrip I have had planned awhile. The parts come on Tuesday. Iam pretty sure this will fix it, but am thinking what if...

No prob 11038-y7000 I think... It's been awhile Or was that the plate... Might be #11037-E3000

tough question without seeing the relay. if you could confirm what is connected to what color in the relay you could redo it for this instance in my pictures you can see the color of the wires on the old relay, and see where they connect inside. the setup they used was energized means light off. post pictures if you can

thank you. that all makes sense. I will report back on the result, and I should be getting to it in a few weekends. biggest problem is standing in the garage thinking "I could start swapping the engine.... or I could go driving" which do you think I've been choosing?

I have a question about installing a new engine. THe info I have says to inject oil in to the engine via the pressure sensor port before turning over to prime the system. is there another way to do this? Background - got a 5 speed transmission and engine from a 77 280z. I have a 76 280z. figured since I had an extra engine i could rebuild that and still drive around. new engine has been completely rebuilt, used ARP bolts, block hot-tanked for a few days, bores honed, new bearings, valves ground and fit, the whole 9 yds. replacement parts such as electric cooling fan have finally been obtained and I'm prepping for the actual swap. see pic of engine if curious I did search for other threads, and if i missed a thread that covers this please let me know. thanks.

thanks. far more complete than my quick pics. we went with bolts instead of screws to install it so in the future it can be removed without worrying about stripping the head. also got the new mesh. engine will be going in soon...

that is one of the temp sensors. there are 3 (ish) the thermotine switch, and 2 sensors. one sensor feeds data to the computer (this is the one you have, 2 connector plug) then one runs the temperature gauge on the dash, that is only one bullet connector AIRTEX / WELLS Part # 1T1181 is the better choice because it has the threads built in, or STANDARD MOTOR PRODUCTS Part # TS69 http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/moreinfo.php?pk=935425 hope this helps.

I ordered and got the part. Looks to be original nissan, and old. I attached pics in case anyone else finds this thread and needs rough dimensions. And to repeat, this site and the community it hosts rocks. Thanks

courtesy nissan got back to me. yay. they dont have the baffle in stock, but gave me a number to call and a part number 11038-Y7000 as someplace in WA has it. I'll post if I get it, and thank you all !

thanks. I have sent them a question along with the part number for the wire mesh part. hopefully they can find the part or a part number for the missing baffle.

yes. and aluminum body means I dont have to worry about rust eating my car. I told my friend about getting measurements/detailed pic. he was wondering about the timeframe. currently the engine is partially assembled and only needs this part to finish. alternatively if anyone would be willing to sell me one from a parts bin of theirs? I have paypal.

thanks. I do like the insight. also the hybrid system allows for a manual transmission, unlike the prius. id appreciate the pics too. if we had dimensions he has access to some good fabricating equipment (school equipment).

So i had a chance to have my spare engine rebuilt from a friend that is in an automotive class. the engine is from a 77 280z. using arp bolts, new bearings, valve job, hot tanked the block then paint... the whole 9 yards (and his grade depends on doing a good job) all for only the cost in parts. the issue is a part vanished from his parts bin at school in the block is a baffle plate and cylinder block net (see pic, taken from manual) both are nowhere to be found, and he is in final assembly i found this thread http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?32932-Need-help-finding-for-the-quot-net-quot-material.....&highlight=engine+baffle+net that mentions the net, but not a replacement baffle plate. is there a replacement part, or does someone have dimensions so he could fabricate a new one? (also what material is used.) or alternatively, is it necessary? some places he has checked have reports of people not putting in the net, but still there is the baffle. I could also retrieve it from the engine in my z now, but I like having a working engine while another is in process. and he says that it is difficult to get so a junkyard run would be very difficult. I also spent a little while searching for other threads, and only found one related.