AnthonyG

you know... maybe i'll just cut the backing off. there isnt anyhting wrong with the bearings, just thought i'd replace them since i was in there anyway. what happens if those bearings fail anyway? anyone have stories?

well the more force approach finally worked. i had to use a yard -ish long crow bar and piece of copper pipe to get it to budge. the copper pipe protected the parts.

thanks for the warning. i hope to be that far soon. I'm stuck earlier in teh process where the half axles wont come out... (i wonder if i am using hte correct term.) the part that is stuck is between the diff and wheel with 2 u joints. like a primitive cv axle... oh, i found your thread about the stub axles too. i starting to think a trip to the local car repair place to remove and reinsert a few of the bushings and bearings will save me alot of pain.

i need to replace the u joints on my half axles and the axles won't come out. 1976 280z, R200, 5speed (swap from a 77z) I have new bearings and seals, and have parts for a drum >disc conversion as well as new shocks and bushings i want to install, but the u joints are priority as they have alot of play. the seal on teh driver side of the diff also needs replacing soon. the 8 bolts holding the half axle on the diff end and wheel end come off fine, but then the axle won't budge. nothing shoudl be holding it in now what options do i have, and how much does the level of difficulty go up for each? also do i want to save the drum parts intact (since i dont have to cut the backign plate to remove as im replacing bearings too) in case they are desired. they are the original single sided piston design, and work fine... /begin rant - though why anyone would want drum brakes is beyond me. they are the most annoying things to adjust/inspect/replace .../end rant

Along the lines of this thread i have a question. background first. I got the 4 piston toyota calipers off ebay. and they work great. I was wondering about brake pads. im currently using the generic ones the seller send with them. they work great, but are there opinions or recommendations as to what is the best pad. oh, it's a 76 280z. and because i got the calipers that were for the solid rotor, not vented, fit fine with the stock wheels. barely. (195 70 r 14) (and i am also working on getting parts for the rear conversion. got brackets for the maxima caliper, just need to get $ for the actual calipers, etc...)

my turn signals also have issues. i found that the system for the hazzards isnt turned off at the right moment the turn signals dont work. (i do have odd electrical issues and it is also a 76 280z) when it happens that i need hazzards i use them. to fix, signal right or left, then turn the hazards on and of patiently. eventually i get to the point it works again. I suspect the relay... hope this helps

thank you. you always seem to be one of the first to help, and it is greatly appreciated. That gives me a better idea how the mechanism works, and I should be able to open mine and finally clean the rear window.

related question about the non-factory air. is there anything to worry about for it's setup? What does this extra knob look like, and what is it's functionality? what settings does one use to get cold air, theoretically.

just a quick question, what does the "key" for the louvers look like? I have ones that work on my vehicle, and want to avoid breaking them thanks

you guys rock. i got it working using a 12v powersupply for testing. of course my luck got in the way, and I broke the motor, when I bumped the adjust on the volt powersupply... fried electronics has a very distinct odor... i am now trying to swap the masts... either way this is fun, even when I break things. I got the car to have fun, and learn more about cars. too bad you learn more from mistakes.

thanks. I'll give some wiring a try... I can put together something to test ideas, then put it back into the car. i'll report back thanks

interesting. I would like the FSM diagram. (I have an EE degree that may help me decode it) and wiring the yellow shoudl be doable... i shoudl be able to cobble together some tntermediate control circuitry if needed

It worked, sorta. The antenna is longer and bigger than the original, but the wire swap worked fine. in fact it used the same color coding, minus the yellow wire. Odd issue with the antenna. when extending it, no problem. retracting it stops part way in and wont pull in any more. the motor also wont run. I'm assuming i need to calibrate it so it knows where to stop. any ideas on how to do that?

cool. I'll give it a try this weekend. thanks

i got online to search for it and while the location didn't have much for me, the search also turned up another place that did have it now to wait for it to ship to me. yay thanks

I have broken off my bleeder valve, and now need to get a "new" rear cylinder for my 280Z. I have a pic below from the manual that looks just like what I need. I'll get an actual pic later tonite. Napa got me the wrong part, and say the right part can't be ordered. Any people out there that did the conversion to disc brakes that has the cylinder in their parts bin? I'd love to buy it from you. Alternatively any suggestions what can be done, or a store I can order it from? thanks

I think this is related to the thread, so ... i have a bad antenna in my 280, and I found a good one at the junkyard form what i think was a 280zx (had the louvers in the hood). I took the connector from the wiring harness too as my 280z has those little bullet connectors. my question is the new antenna has 4 wires, the old one had 3. can i do this swap, and what would the wiring be? (I'm betting they used the chassis as ground for the 3 wire, and have it in the harness for the 4, but I'm not sure) alternatively can I just swap parts and get a working unit. the only thing broken on the old antenna is the antenna. it was bent by some ever so helpful nameless entity.

The toyota echo has a factory applied zinc block that is replaced every 5 yrs or 100k miles, weighs about 2 pounds. It's a block with 2 bolt holes, so no welding. A friend has an echo here in wisconsin. and no rust new in 2001 and driven every winter. though it was only on the 99 to 2001 echo. dunno if it helped any.

I had a similiar issue in a different car. Jumpered it wrong to jump start it too. actually blew a relay. the tow guy tested it by shorting across terminals for the relay so it was closed as it was supposed to be, and it started. apparently once it was started it didnt need the jumper either. it would prove it was the issue. there are those more knowlegable that could suggest which relay it might be... (I'm not an expert, just a collection of interesting experiences)