Datsunreal

Whoa now! no need for all that! sorry im not trying to hijack anyones thread or anything, and didnt mean to cause a ruckus. ive met you both and know youre nice people. i hope you get what you want for it.

No plans for a turbo Nigel, im not a competitive person and i dont need to win bathurst, its all about engineering development and building stuff myself that im interested in. i have tuned it a fair bit and it drives pretty well, the haltech system is very easy and simple to work with, especially with the wideband. i have someone to dyno tune it further down the track. and Stephy, yes ill have to finish painting it eventually. im just going to primer over the filler and get it back on the road for now. but dont expect anything fancy, just more good old toxic green.

Hey you bought this cheap and in good faith off another Tassie K enthusiast, which i got you on to. and it should go to someone similar surely, rather than being a money making excrsise - remember how the tasssie datto network works.

New injection MN47 head, big valves all installed Haltech works! So does the wideband! and it drives again, but just up and down the driveway for now!

i have heard of people using 240k rear arms in 1600 rally cars. they have bigger bearing housings and a reinforcing plate over the axle. i have just completed an R31 rear disc conversion in my 240k using hardware from a datsport 1600/P510 kit. it works but the hole in the caliper mounting plate must be heaps bigger. Handbrake cables had to have the cable shortened and the sheath lengthened. the 7/8 master struggled a bit with hilux 4 pots as well as R31 rears and was replaced with 15/16 ZX job. oh and P510 tension rods wont fit, wrong shape i have used 200B tension rods which are a bit shorter.

yeah 5 3/4 the same size as a 1600 and most twin hlight dattos, i just fitted some 150w aircraft landing lights to replace my high beams. probably not legal but VERY bright.

The green beasts "summer" makeover is dragging on. I ran out of summer for bodywork. but it now has big fuel lines, surge tank, R31 rear discs. Haltech manifold is finished, just need to install it and wire it up, fit my A/F ratio meter and get tuning. and get it back on the road!!!

im sticking with the standard TB until i get the Haltech working properly, then ill see about getting a bigger one. same as nigel, get it working then make it better.

I have broken into my coupe a couple of times with a coathanger or bit of hooked wire slipped in between the windows and worked in until it hooked directly over the lock switch. pretty easy, made me worry about security.

just updating. i got an XF chook tin throttle body 65 mm. it looks huge! i hope its not too big for a high revving N/A L24 any thoughts?

there will be more pics of the green beast when it gets a makeover in summer. Noddle, some of your mods look very similar to mine - slotted rotors, toyota 4 pots, webbing removed from intake mfold ect. why the bracket for the rear discs? were the ones you used bigger than the R31 discs? im about to do this mod.

i have reached the limits of the nissan L-jetronic EFI system on my green weapon. it just cant deliver enough fuel for the cam at the top end, ive done all the usual tricks but that flap airflo meter has to go! im going to run a fuel only haltech system with L28ET injectors. the throttle body on the standard injection is only 51mm or so in diameter and could be limiting in the future. does anyone know if RB30 or other throttle bodies bolt on to the L24E manifold? i got one from a CA20 but it was the same size.

standard K alternator is 60 amps i believe. ive had the same running on problem with my EFI conversions as you Noddle. i ended up putting another switch in to stop the engine but ill try the diode.