Mitchka

My personal favorite place: MSA: www.zcarparts.com Black Dragon and Zparts are other reputable dealers. If you try Ebay, stay away from Reddat. He's a great seller, but he overcharges on shipping. A dealer will be around the same price for parts, although shipping can make a difference. Shop around at all of them, and find the best price.

If it weren't so hard/expensive to get the cars back to ND....

Yeah, I just eye-balled the weight. I pulled a tranny out of a 85 Mustang two weeks ago, (without transmission jack) and I just about got crushed by the S.O.B. The guy original owner did a lot of mods to the car, carbs, full exhaust, pistons, lowered, 1" roll bars, trans brace, camshaft, dash etc....I would have kept all the stuff together but the body is falling apart. Everything pulled off will either be ebayed or used on my early 260Z. If anyone wants anything, PM me. I can send pics, and I will be very reasonable on prices. I need the extra space for my new baby...a 10th Anniversary 280ZX (black/Gold)

For the ratio, I rotated the tire 1 full turn, and watched how many turns the driveshaft made. I crawled under the car, and it has a rounded diff cover, so its got the R-200. On the tranny, is there any easy way to find out what year it came from? I'm looking for the close ratio'd 1-3 5 speed.

Has anyone tried them as a vendor yet? They make adjustable Camber Plates, and a really cool looking Coilover Conversion kit that lets you adjust the ride height of your Z. They use Eibach springs on the kits. Since I do SCCA rally racing, I'm looking at the coilover conversion, so I can lower my car at the meets, and put it back to stock for daily driving. www.ground-control.com http://www.ground-control-store.com/products/description.php/II=62/CA=93 (should bring you to the Datsun/etc menu)

A guy about 30 miles from where I live just agreed to sell me his 10th Anniversary 280ZX. Only 2500 were made gold and black, and 500 red and black. It isn't the super rare red/black, but the guy is selling it to me for a reasonable price. It needs a complete restore of the interior, and it will need some minor body work. I'll get pictures up here shortly, for now, I'll just pilfer one from http://www.zhome.com/History/10thAnniv.htm.

I was pulling the engine and transmission from a late 260Z, and I found a couple disconcerting things. 1. Aluminum 5-speed transmission. Bellhousing does not match up well with engine, only bolted on with 4 bolts plus starter bolts. Has the number 60 by shift lever connection, and # 9_2_28 near rear of the transmission. There do not appear to be any other numbers on it, but I haven't scrubbed all the grime off yet. Weight: 120 lbs. Any transmission experts out there? 2. Rear end has about a 1.6:1 ratio. I've never heard of a Z-car with a 1.6:1 rearend. All I know on the Z rearends are the following ratios: 75-79 280Z, 81-83 turbos: 3.54 81-83 non turbos: 3.9 86-87 200SZ turbos: 4.11 87-89 LSD 3.7 I double checked because I didn't believe it myself! Where did this ratio diff come from? I've never heard of a car with anything under a 2.55:1. Any insights on these would be VERY helpful.

Water, Fuel and Oil pressure gauges... Sure look nice, but I'd still like a fuel and an amp/volt gauge in my car. Any idea if there are any really good places to get 2-3 gauges in other places? A-pillar, or underdash pod?

Blue, you are one heck of an amazing Zee-guy! What had thrown me off before is what Bruce clarified right after me. I always thought that with the intakes, the numbers would increase with later models ie: 36 would be early, 88 would be later. Well, now I know for sure which intake to put on my complete car. Another thing that bothers me, but is probably not really necessary info, is what odes the E or N relate to on the intake? Was it just a way of matching heads to intakes? And does anyone know what carbs came on the 260s, and what year the Hitachi domes were used on?

I know 2 guys and seen their solutions: a) A-pillar gauge pods Gauge pod attached to bottom edge of dash Both work. For me, the A-pillar makes me self-conscience that I will hit them with my head twice (did it once). And depending on where you put the pod under the dash will alter visibility and knee-damage. He attached them near the center console, which gave decent leg-room, and good visibility, even if around/through the steering wheel. JC Whitney (www.jcwhitney.com) has the generic pods Rico used for mounting under the dash (2 screw holes generally). I do not know where Sean got the A-pillar pods.

5 Datsun/Nissan 240z 260z 280z Un-Cut Key Blanks RARE Item number: 280262252676 Reserve: $500 I figured myself on buying a set (2 keys) for like $75 personally.... If you get that price, I was wrong, and definately more power to you!

For what Year and Model? Different years had different sending unit voltages, ohms, etc.

It almost sounds like a bad connections somewhere off of the distributor. or something. Does the backfire happens when it starts running again?

If worst comes to worst, I have a gas tank out of an early 74 that should match up. I'll crawl under it tonight, see if I can get some decent measurements of it. It does go under the spare tire area, so it is rather Asymmetrical.

Sorry for bringing up an old thread, but I couldn't find what I was looking for in other threads. I have an early '74 260Z, and a late '74 260Z. The early one came with a N36 intake, the later one was with an E46 intake manifold. Both have the Hitachi SU carbs on them, so I assume the early 260Z had the carbs switched. Which intake flows better?

You are wonderful! Thank you!

Here's the Bauble

It appears to me as some sort of over-ride switch. It has 4 wires, two coming to it, two leaving it. When button is up (current state), it allows no power to pass through it. When the button is depressed, it allows power to pass through it. When depressed, it does not appear to be limiting electrical flow, it just seems to be either fully on, or fully off. And I have no clue what it does. The amazing Hynes manual says nothing about it either. If you know anything about the boxes on the firewall by the battery, please let me know!

The car was running beautifully before I bolted the battery and worked on the dash. Nothing else in the engine bay was touched or modified. Battery had a trickle charger on it, and is fully charged. Voltage read at the starter is 12.3 V It seems like after the starter, there is no power. I've tried many of the idiot tricks, I've used a wire from the battery to the power gauge, power to the trouble light, and they all work that way. I know the chassis has a good ground, but perhaps one of the ground wires is corroded? I used some dialetic grease on the ground on the passenger side wheelwell. Like I said earlier, it's either a broken power wire, a bad ground or perhaps a relay somewhere that went bad (I think it's too old for that though?).

I've been restoring an early 74 260Z, and I have it almost complete. There is a show tomorrow, and I don't know if I can go now! I removed the dash to get it recovered, and when reinstalled, I now have no power. I also went ahead and bolted the battery down (requirement for show-and-go). I have power at the starter, and I have a good ground through out the frame of the car. I have no power at anything else, not even the under-hood light. What I am wondering is: a) Is there a ground for the electrical harness that I accidently disconnected? Where? Did I break a wire somewhere? c) other? Any help you can give me today will be a godsend! Thank you!

Sorry for taking so long to get back here, I drove my Zee down to Ark for an autocross event. I'm hoping to take it to SORC this August also... Anyways, My 260Z is (unfortunately) an early model with blinkers under the front bumper, choke, the thin bumpers, and small dash. Good for collecting, but I know the under-dash area is limited. I really want a HVAC system I don't have to worry about, and that doesn't look tacky like the one it has.

Heh, that's the job I'm doing now, replacing the valve...

The PO of my racer was the third owner, but had remembered a lot the second owner had said when he bought it. Gave me a lot of info about the wiring, and some a long recollection that sounded like a script from an unreleased Smokey and the Bandit movie. Do it. ITS WORTH IT!!

Sorry! I'm an idiot when it is 3AM :tapemouth The condensor looks factory mounted infront of the radiator, and the drier appears factory as well. (I'm still tired, couldn't find the "Edit" button) Do you know another manufacturer of the aftermarket center evaporator setup? I'd sell a kidney for the system. Really.

She turned out looking fantastic! You gave me some of my own ideas on a resto! Good meaty tires, definately not a ricer! Good job!