mikewags

Holy @*#$ ... big engine. Any ideas on what kind of effect would a turbo-charger do on the stock L28e? Would this risk blowing the engine since it isn't designed for the extreme air intake? If not, would the performance gain be worth it?

Something about nitros...seems like cheating Is you're car running? What's your current engine setup?

While I like the idea of having a bangin 280zx engine, I just think it's one of those projects that will just get strung out over a few months (leaving me w/o a drivable Z), end up costing more than I estimate; and in the end, just end up being a big risk. The chance of me getting a really solid ZX turbo is slim, considering I don't have the means to efficiently test it. The car will be a Mod-Car in the sense that it's stock engine won't be there, along with whatever else is swapped out (wiring/exhaust/etc). The car is original in it's current state, and I don't know if tearing the engine out for HP is worth what it might do to the value of the car. I know people tend to look for originality in classic cars. What i'd love the car to be is a great street car/sleeper at the same time. It's currently a great street car, and really does haul arse when you need it to; I guess I just like the idea of having a lot of added power to back it up (without losing some if it's drivability); you know, the typical "more power" nonsense

My goal is really to keep the car as stock as possible, although able to get as much performance out of it as possible. While replacing the motor with a ZX Turbo would probably double the car's HP, it would take my stock 75' and turn it into a mod-car. It would also be another expenditure---one I really don't need, nor' want to get into at this point in time. I will do some reading on ways to get the most out of my L28. Thanks fellas.

It seems that 280zx turbo engine would probably get the most bang for the buck; but i will do some more reading and see what other options are out there. Thanks for the advice.

Nice color too!

I wish you luck on the dash repair. I did this method and found it much harder than it actually looks. I was able to seal the cracks on my dash, and paint over them...it looks better, but you can still faintly tell that it was repaired; because it isn't perfectly uniform on the top like some of the other success stories. If you want to get it perfect, fill the deep portions of the crack with foam, then fill the top layers with the plastic/bumper repair. I would go a few layers up over the dash surface and sand down. Be prepared to sand and sand until it uniforms perfectly with the dash, or it will be hard to mask the work area when painting. If you can run your hand over the dash and not feel the difference where the filling is, you should be good to go. This is the way to have a nice even surface with the texture coating/trim paint. When I get around to it I will post some pics of my dash. Nice looking car, i'm sure it will clean up nicely.

I was going over some options on how to get as much HP out of the L28. What kind of modifications to the L28 can be made without major engine work or overhaul (such as boring the engine or replacing it). Would anyone here suggest putting in an exhaust turbo or intercooler for the L28; or would this just be a waste of time? The stock L28 hp says 170hp at 5400rpm; and I was curious if this engine could push more than that? I like the idea of getting as much power out of the L28 as possible; and even considered throwing a 280zx turbo in my car; although I would prefer to keep it stock, and see how much I can squeeze out of the stock hardware (engine/trans).

After taking another look at this thread past page 2, I agree with what you're saying --- i would have to say this thread is lacking relative content.. ...this is a Z forum right?

By mold I just meant "make" a new key. Whether they actually mold anything or not is beyond me. Making an impression and making a mold sounds like the same stuff anyways. I was simply throwing the idea of having a locksmith create a new set of keys for her...

Uh, why? They pop out the door lock; and mold a new key for her. The only issue would be that the door locks are different from the ignition, which would be more expensive to have both made.

*BUMP* Picked up the new caliper today, I bought one just for the side posing the problem. Should I replace both at the same time? Is there any real point in doing this? Any good tips on what I should be aware of when changing the caliper?

This seems like an awful long thread for such a simple issue. Why not just call a locksmith and have them mold you a key; or at least open the car up for you so you can move it.

don't listen to them...sell me the Z for cheap, and everything will work out great. :devious:

I'm not exactly sure yet what kind of tranny it is; but it might actually be a ZX tranny; considering the owner owns a 240z (which didnt come in 5 speed) as well as an 81 - 83 zx. Bigger chance thats its ZX version. I'll let you know when I do.

Well, i was spinning the actual disc (wheel with tire off) : But i will give it a shot. the sound isn't metal on metal...it sounds like a "chicka-chicka-chicka-chicka" sound.

The car was pulling to the right a bit, so I took it in for an alignment. I also had the guy replace a worn down back right tire with a spare good one I had. Anyways, back to the point; turned out the car's alignment was fine; but the front right brake caliper was a bit tight and the wheel wasn't spinning as freely as the left front. It was touching. At that point, the mechanic said each caliper was 65 bucks, plus 85 for the work...in the end the work would cost about 245 bucks plus tax. It seemed a bit steep, and not entirely trusting the mechanic; I decided to just pay for the alignment and leave (to do it myself). If it all works out, I should be able to do the same job myself for the cost of the calipers. I called advanced and it turns out the front brake calipers are 35 bucks a piece, plus installing them/bleeding the brake system isn't a huge chore. Any advice or comments? Also, the back right wheel of my car will generate a low ticking type sound after I drive for about 10 - 15 miles (towards the end of my work commute) .. Can this be a caliper issue on the back right tire? I'd just like to knock out all issues while I'm doing the front calipers. Thanks!

Can anyone give me some advice/tips on upgrading my 4 speed tranny to a 5 speed. I suspect the 5 speed will be from a 77' or 78 280z, although not sure. Is this just a matter or removing the old tranny and putting the new one in? Some links to a walkthrough or any helpful information would be great. Thanks in advance!

I don't know about that...They built the new mustang's to emulate the older style and they are EVERYWHERE. I don't think I can drive a day without seeing 3 of them. You can say this is Ford building a car to cater to the older generation, or "imitate" an older model; although it seems to have worked out really well for them. I personally wouldn't be caught dead buying one. The S30 is highly identifiable to many people, mostly because everyone has either owned one; or known somebody who has owned one. This in turn makes them very attractable to other drivers and people in general. I think if they were able to produce a new model car that was like an updated 240, it would be very popular; the same way the Mustang is. I think a redesigned S30 would appeal to the masses since the car's body itself is just very nice. This is where they (FORD) went wrong with the new mustangs. While they have similar body-features that is much like the classic, the car itself it bloated and plasticy in comparison to the original which was more sleek and seemed to have more curves. Just because American car companies do a crappy job at reinventing the past; doesn't mean it has to be that way for everyone. They probably will never revisit the S30 body for the reasons Westpak listed, and i'm fine with that. It just makes all of ours more unique

That 240z prototype is pretty ugly imo. The grill/whole rounded front end just doesn't stay true to the originals; nor looks very good. The car looks more like a miata then a Z. I'd like to see what the back of it looks like though.

I would love to see Nissan revert back to the older body style (S30) 240-280z type; but I don't think that's going to be happening; especially after seeing the new 370. For some reason they are fixed on that jellybean-like body style that has strayed far from the original. I personally think the S30 body looks badass, and it's kind of sad that they don't think to reuse it. There are very few "remakes" nowadays that impress me. The new mustangs for example...no thanks.

This is what im trying to find out. It would be nice to swap bulbs out in an easier fashion than removing the dash...that can be a real pain in the arse, especially if you don't have help. My main concern now isnt replacing the bulbs, but trying to move the speedometer bulb/wiring to get it to light back up. I think it could have been nudged and turned off (because it worked before) The lighting is a dim green when it does work, so bulb replacement would be nice; but if it's torture, i'll settle with just having my speedometer visible at night

Thanks Steve! I'll give it a shot tommorow in the daylight. I suppose a short screwdriver will take care of that screw under the dash...how hard would you say it is getting that out?

I've finished redoing my dashboard & since reinstalling it, my speedometers light is out...how can I go about checking this? It worked before...Is there an easy way to access the bulb without removing the dashboard? (because that just isnt happening) --- There is a screw securing the gauges to the dash, on the inside top; does this remove the gauges from the dash housing? Help! :surprised