mikewags

Those don't look like the stock bumpers...are they? I've got a 75 280z, and the bumpers have black plastic/rubber on the corners/between the metal and the car.

Im just curious, but how hard is it to change the bulbs out once the dash is removed? I ask because my dash is currently out, and the thought of having to remove it again to change some dash bulbs is horrifying :nervous: My dash lights are also a subtle greenish hue (at night) and I figure some new bulbs might be better for lighting at night...

My dash had the word "OK" written on that part of the metal...not sure what that means. I've finished with the dash repair. It didn't come out perfect, but i was able to seal about 4 or 5 deep cracks that would of continued to spread eventually. The whole process was pretty labor intesive and a real headache. From removing the dash, to filling the cracks and sanding it all down...I would of probably left it alone if I knew it was going to be such a mission. I would probably suggest others to get a dashcap instead of going through the whole dash removal and repair process. It's very hard to get the finish to come out completely smooth, even with the SEM texture coating... Will post photos soon!

Dayum...you must love that car to be dropping that kind of money into it...I'm fortunate to have gotten a 280 that was painted less than 6 months before I got it. Looks great though, looking forward to it's completion photos!

Those old rims you have. Are those western wheel cyclone II's? I've been looking to get 2 more of those for my car, would you be interested in parting with them? This thread talked about it... http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=31060&highlight=rims

You can use the spare tire area for storage space if you don't want to carry a spare with you.

"You wanna make 14 dollars the hard way?" -Rodney Dangerfield (Caddyshack)

I am in the process of restoring these parts. They are almost done, ive painted them to match the rest of the car; and they look brand new. Will post a few photos up later.

Well, starters --- dealers tend to be overly expensive for "new" parts. I know the car is over 30 years old, but based on those prices for these "plastic pieces" --- that really seems like highway robbery. Now, im not trying to sound cheap; but thats just what they are...thin pieces of plastic...and the fact that each one is around 165 dollars is just ridiculous. I would rather repair my own (glue/paint), or find a reseller out there that is cheaper. I wouldn't mind spending about 80 dollars total for both, but around 170 total is just too much for me to consider. Thank you for the information though, I really appreciate it! PS - If anyone knows of any online shops or even ebay listings, let me know!

The panels surrounding the tail-lights are brittle and have a few cracks. They are also very faded. I'd like to get new ones, is this possible? I can probably repair my current ones, but considering its just plastic---i'd rather just buy some new ones... WHERE can i get em? The panels are the dark-grey plastic part, of this photo. http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g123/18rg/Car%20parts/IMG_8069-1.jpg Thanks!

Keep in mind, the dash comes out with everything still in it (speedometers/glovebox/etc) --- Removing all that from the dash cover (plastic top) is a mission in and of itself. Once the dash is gone, there is still quite a bit attached to the firewall (AC unit, wiring, etc) - If you are looking to have the firewall totally empty, thats a LOT more work. When I get home ill post up some snapshots of the inside of the car with it all removed...it ain't pretty :nervous:

If you know exactly what to take apart, you can probably knock it out in an hour or two (removing bolts/screws) - If you run into the issues I had, such as removing the exterior panelling; then it will take you longer. Once you get all the screws/bolts off you have to remove the electrical from the passenger (junction block) then a bunch under the steering wheel; along with dropping the steering wheel via removing the bolts...its quite a mission. Then putting screws/bolts back and rehooking up the wires will be a pain. I haven't gotten to that part yet, and am not exactly looking forward to it.

Update: I've removed the dash yesterday...it was a REAL mission. Let me just say, that if u have a few minor cracks in the dash; and everything is in place---it probably isnt worth removing considering the amount of work that needs to be done to get it out. I have already gone ahead and filled the cracks with glue/foam - Will be patching the surface with bumper repair, then covering with texture coating/trim paint. Will update later with photos.

Status Update: I removed most of the bolts. Two of the bolts under the garnish plate had nuts securing them to the firewall (thankfully they were loose) but I had to remove the exterior panel under the wipers to get to the nuts for bolt removal...What a pain! Upon removing that panel I found the largest portion of surface rust yet on the car. Probably due to the rain water that flows into those vents. I applied large amounts of NAVAL JELLY to the rusted areas and covered it all up. Today the rust should be gone and I will cover these areas with paint (#305 - able to buy at Sherwin Williams Automotive) --- The dashboard isnt fully removable yet, but much looser. I still need to disconnect some wiring under the passenger side I suppose. Question: What is that black bag that is located between the wipers, under that exterior shell piece? and Will the dashboard come out with all of the vents/gauges? (speedometer/etc) Thanks!

I must have overlooked this section. Instrument Panel. Section FE Engine, Fuel, and Exhaust System : page BF-28

Thanks Steve. I used that same page to download and print the FSM ... I just need to go through it and see if theres any dash removal information.

So, today I found myself under the dash on my back, sweating profusely and getting nowhere fast. I'm going to search through the FSM and any other stuff out there for a decent schematic of where all the connections/screws are...it would just make life easier, especially for putting it all back together. Do you guys think attempting to repair a few cracks in the dash (while still in the car) would even be possible? I really think its futile, I'd like to get the dash out for dynomatting the firewall and being able to fix it correctly.

Thanks for the document. It will be of some help. I was hoping for a schematic to show where all the bolts/screws were placed; but I guess I can figure it out on with this information. Thanks again.

Ive got the FSM for the 1975 280z, although its mostly about engine work (there is very little about interior)

Can someone tell me where to find a schematic on how to remove the dashboard (all screws) --- Or just tell me? Greatly Appreciated!

Funny you posted that, because I was just reading that post I'm actually going to purchase the materials tomorrow to redo my dash, the same way. I have about 3 minor cracks in the dash that I would like to address, without spending hundreds on a new dash.

I have some damage to my Center Console...It isn't THAT bad, but I am trying to restore the car as best as I can. I know buying a replacement is the obvious solution, but they are pretty expensive (200 - 300/for the 1975 console) Can cracks in the plastic be fixed anyway? DIY fashion? Any ideas? (I can uploaded photos if you need to see the damage)