mikewags

Well i have pretty reasonable mechanical skills. I wasn't going to adjust the valve's myself, although I was going to polish the cover. Are gaskets for the 280 pretty easy to get, or are they special order? (curious if advanced auto parts carries them)

I wanted to remove the valve cover to get it polished, and to also have the valves adjusted. Should I have a mechanic do this, or is it easy enough for me to do myself? Thanks.

<- South Florida (Miami area) - Where are you located?

take a look at this thread http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=31060 are those the same that you have? If so, i wonder what shipping would be...probably $$$.

So far, performance wise - I have: 1. Added new Spark Plugs 2. New Wires 3. New Rotor/Dist. Cap 4. New Fuel Filter 5. New K&N Air Filter 6. New Oil and Filter I was thinking, "well, what can I do to get some more horsepower out of the car?" I'm not interested in making a racing car, although the thought of a turbo/intercooler system was considerable. Have any of you guys installed an exhaust turbo system in you're 280's? Any thoughts on the performance increase or overall idea of doing this? (worth it or not) - I do want to keep the ride pretty stock, although small modifications to improve gas mileage and HP aren't radical alterations to the car in my mind. Any feedback would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!

Believe it or not, that damn car has the same rims that I need an additional 2 of to make a complete set...argh!

Ah, good advice. I figured it was the starter, although considering the car is '75 I didn't rule out the flywheel condition. This weekend i'll remove the starter and inspect both. Thanks guys.

Every once in a while when I go to start my car, I get a grinding high pitched screeching sound, that will stop when I stop turning the ignition. It sounds like the flywheel grinding or something. It isn't often although kind of random. I suspect this is either, the starter; or the flywheel. I know the flywheel's don't go bad easily; although I know if a few of the teeth get worn down or knocked off this can cause it. I had a lincoln a few years back that did this, I think it went away when I changed the starter. The starter in my car looks relatively new though, so I'm not exactly sure if thats it. Any ideas guys? Anyone else ever have this issue?

Besides my low-beams not working, last night when I was driving to dinner; the taillights/dash lights would flicker on and off. Jiggling the switch a bit would turn them back on. I did this about 3 times, before they finally stayed on. I'm not sure if the headlights were cutting on and off, but i'm positive the tail-lights/dash lights were. Any ideas on whats causing this? Maybe the switch's inner wiring? Thanks!

Good looking car. Welcome aboard, from another newbie. :laugh:

Looks good Texasz, did you use black enamel to seal that? I was thinking of putting a sealer down over the rubberized undercoat I sprayed onto the well itself. Nice job.

Any idea of where I can replace the tar mat? Better material to lay down instead, for maybe heat/sound dampening? Suggestions?

BUMP* This is what i've done today to the spare tire well. First I removed the tar paper. Sanded with a drill-wire brush. Got the metal pretty bare, then prepped the well with newspaper and tape. Covered with the rust spray paint. One solid coat, looks much better. Painted only half down the well. http://i15.photobucket.com/albums/a369/mikewags/Car/sparefixed2.jpg http://i15.photobucket.com/albums/a369/mikewags/Car/sparefixed.jpg Considering replacing the matt, (btw: luckily there wasn't any rust under it) ... Any idea where I can get one? It just seemed like tacky tar paper. Would there be better sound dampening material I can lay in there?

So the cyclone 1 has 15 spokes and the 2, 30. Western Wheel : Cyclone 2 Jeez...after this thread, we'll have the most information on this obscure rim, that we can start our own Wikipedia page about it... :cheeky:

Don't mean to Hijack the thread here, but in your experience; whats the average cost of a new brake master cylinder for a 1975 280z? Mine has surface rust all over it, and instead of cleaning and painting it; i've thought of getting a new one.

*bump*

Ah, I would jump on it; although that isn't the same type that I have. If you look at the photo above, you'll see the one I have is different than yours. Mine has more "spokes". Your rim is probably that of the 'turbine' model.

Well, we'll see if I can find 2 more, to make a full set. If not, I suppose I will sell them to someone else who needs them and can enjoy them. Thanks for all the input guys!

They are actually Western Wheel Cyclone 1's http://www.zparts.com/ads/wheels/ads/wfs-49.htm

Here's a good RIM reference page: http://www.311s.org/tech/wheels/wheelsfaq.html

Yes, I do like them a lot. I wonder where I can find a pair of those...? Are you referring to the steel hubcap for the spare?

When I got my Z, they were supposed to come with 4 extra "stock" rims, aside from the ones that are on the car now. Anyways, the guy kind of flaked out on me and I was left with only the 2 that were in the car at purchase. I was kind of bummed to only have 2 now, because I wanted them on the car if they were originals. I do like the look of them and will hope to come by 2 others. So, are they the original 280Z stock rims? The positive is that all the tires on the rims are in really good condition, so I won't have to buy new ones anytime soon. Thanks! This one was the spare in the well. Rim in question All three

So you think theres more rust under the tar mat? Would you suggest replacing the mat when all is said and done?

I would be interested as well. Keep us updated.

edit: Stock filter cost ($5.22) Btw - I'll do searches on subjects in the future...I typed K&N into the search box, and came across at least 3 posts regarding K&N air filtration I will be giving the filter a try.