mikewags

I picked up the slave cylinder they had in stock. Turns out they had the Master in the computer, but there were none in stock; ANYWHERE. Not able to be ordered. Oh well, the slave seems to be the real problem, so i'll swap it out tomorrow and let you all know how it goes. Anything I should know when changing out the slave? Should the FSM suffice? Thanks!

Called the local Advanced Auto Parts...they carry both. They will have to order me the Master Cylinder ($48.00) - and would you believe they have 1 slave cylinder there in stock? ($17.00) - The prices seem pretty good. Going to head down and check it out.

Sounds like that might be the culprit. Any particular place I should buy it, or would advanced/discount auto parts carry these?... Thanks guys.

Any suggestion on a good place to buy the slave? And if I replace the slave, I should replace the master as well, right? I read on another post that you can adjust the slave cylinder...would this do me any good?

***UPDATE*** I bled the clutch slave after work today. There was some air in the line. I can now shift gears again without the resistance, and once the air was released; the clutch stiffened a bit *was loose before* ... One last issue though. REVERSE gear grinds. It would do this before, although when I'd start the car and go 3rd or 4th THEN reverse, it wouldnt grind. Now, even when I go to any other gear prior to going reverse, it will make a wicked grinding noise. What does this mean? Last legs of the clutch, or a deeper transmission issue? Any way to fix this that I haven't thought of? Thanks!

Thanks for all the advice guys. These tips will definitely help in diagnosing this problem. I drove the car home. I live about 10 miles from work, so I basically just would turn the car off at the red lights, shift to first, start it up and go. I found it easiest to go straight to 3rd after take off because 2nd was kinda rough. I was able to get home without any grinding or forcing of the shifter (which is good i think). I am going to bleed the clutch fluid when I get off work tonight, via the slave cylinder. Hopefully there is just air or gunk in the line. If not, i have the means to replace the clutch/plate assembly --- it's just a pain in the arse doing transmission work. If you guys have any additional troubleshooting steps for the possible causes of this, feel free to let me know. Thanks again!

Yes, it's full. (This is the reservoir on the drivers side behind by the brake master cylinder right? Do you guys think bleeding/refilling the fluid would do anything for my problem...or might this be a REAL problem with the clutch itself?

I was driving home yesterday and noticed very slightly that the gear switching was a little rougher than normal. Today I brought my car back to work because the mechanic down the street was going to re-check the alignment he had done for me a few weeks back. Anyways, when I was backing out of my house the reverse shift grinded...usually i can get passed that grinding sound by going to 3rd or 4th and then reverse. In this case it didnt work. The drive to work was rougher than usual, shifting to 1st or reverse (when needed) ... I am now at work with the car, and 1st gear is very STIFF to shift to; reverse will not go without the grinding noise. I am limiting the shifting, i will just try to get the home as quick as possible (or should i have it towed?) so i can check it out. I am thinking the problem is the clutch plate...I checked the transmission fluid, and its full. I think when I engage the clutch, its not pulling the gear away from the flywheel (?) far enough...I think either way I cut it, the tranny will have to come out... Any suggestions???!!!

Scratch that. I saw a few online, and decided to just climb under my car and take a close look myself.

I appreciate all the advice you guys have given. I will weigh my options, and see what is possible. I originally bought the pair of ANSA tips; just to swap one of them out for the current tip i have; although I started thinking about getting a real dual exhaust setup going, instead of just a tip that gives the "appearance" of dual exhaust. If I end up just swapping the tip and scrapping the dual idea --- well, it won't be that bad considering what I have on there now should probably GO. Considering I decide to go dual exhaust, maybe selling these tips and going with one actual dual tip (2xinlets) might be a better idea. I would like to be able to route the exhaust down the right side, but if this is impossible; then having it dual on that one left side would be adequate (i just don't think 4 outlets on the back left side (2x Ansas) would look very good). Thanks again!

Quench deficiency? I don't HAVE to go with this setup, especially if it will pose any problems down the road... What do you think?

Wouldn't dual exhaust (6 - 2 header) let the exhaust flow more freely and improve in getting past any backflow? Basically giving each 3 chambers it's own exhaust rather than all of them tied up into one. Here are the ANSA tips - they are basically just dual-tipped (as they stem off of the 1 pipe). Inlet: 2 1/4" Length : 10 1/4" Chrome Length: 6 1/4" Outlet: 2 5/8" Interior Baffels: 1 3/8"

Ricey? You mean like a rice-burner honda mod car or something? I'd really like to get them on each side...but like you guys say, there is lacking space for an exhaust pipe on the right backside.

That looks pretty good geezer. I wonder what it would look like with both twin ANSA tips on it like that.

Good point Stephen, i'll take a look underneath the car in the morning. I'm not sure how much different the 75 is, to the 77/78.

The twice pipe kit isn't absolutely necessary though right, any muffler shop should be able to fabricate the rest of the exhaust system right? If there was one pipe that ran to the back of the car from each of the 3-2 header outlets; this is basically the same as it being "twice piped" 1 pipe going into 2 (back of the car) then to the tip. Basically, what I had in mind was to split the exhaust from the header to the left and right side of the car, then run it back. I don't see much need for twice-piping it to the back, unless this will provide a huge difference in exhaust flow. The way I see it, splitting it from STOCK (single straight back) to 2 pipes (1 pipe per 3 chambers) with that new header/exhaust will make the biggest difference.

http://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/CTGY/PEC02 So #1 on this list... 3 into 2 header...(Arne: I don't see any 6 into 2 - but I think you mean 3 into 2 right?) I have an exhaust guy that can do the rest of the work once the headers installed (installing the pipes/muffler to the back - along with the tips I bought) You say MSA sells a kit that includes the rest of the exhaust system? I wonder if that would be the best route to go.

I was talking to a buddy at work that restores classic cars about a few ANSA exhaust tips I bought recently, and he brought up the idea of me installing dual headers for the Z. Basically the header will lead to an exhaust pipe for each 3 chambers, then each pipe will split in direction and lead off to the back of the car. He mentioned I might get 10-15% performance increase. Has anyone done this or suggest this? It seems like a pretty simple bolt in process installing the headers, but what about all the hoses and stuff ontop of the exhaust manifold? Any and all suggestions would be great. Thanks!

I bought 30 feet of the Edead material (dynamat basically) - it weighed 10 lbs. So i'd say anywhere from 10 - 20lbs for the whole car? (roof/doors/floorpan/cargo area) etc. Depends how many layers you put down. I actually decided on passing on sound deadening, and returned the stuff to the company for a refund. The amount of time, effort, and general mess of the tacky sound paper was just too much for me.

Got done today bleeding the brakes (properly) --- Since done, it does brake better, although not as good as it can be i think. I've heard the Master Cylinder on these s30's suck; and better to replace them with the 280ZX MC ... Is this true? Or it can just be my drums need to be addressed/aligned... All in all, at least its braking better ATM.

***UPDATE*** Shims were there...I ended up taking off the rotor, getting it machined for $7.00. I then bought new brake pads for the front of the car $22.00. After reinstallation, all is good; no more shrieking. On a side note, i've bled the air out of the brakes; but I do notice some play in the brake. I will push down and there is no response from the brakes until about a 1/3 or so of the way down. Is this normal? Can this be characteristic of the drums being bad, or something else? Maybe i didn't get all the air out? Any helpful advice would be great. Thanks!

I have a 91 civic. I wonder if i would ever need one of those for replacement...

http://www.ratdat.com/?page_id=25

Unevenness of the pads is most likely it. The shims are a backplate to the pads right? The only thing I really did was take the pads from the old caliper, pop them into the new one; and secure them with the clips. I'll have to double check if there are any shims.

Maybe i installed the shims backwards. I will take it apart again tomorrow and reassemble to see if that makes any difference. Thanks guys.