nhoddino

do a google search om Retro sounds. They make one you won't need to cut your dash for.

In times past, I have seen guys use a little 3M super weatherstrip adhesive and it seemed to hold. it is also not too dificult to remove if you need to. Not the best way, but definitley easy.

Nope no stickers on these. When I called this morning, I was told by Motorsport that the springs witht hte part number ending in .001 go in fron and the .002 go in back. Just so happens the .002 are longer.

Looks like someone used the old hot wrench on those...

too late. I used locktite on most all of them. I was shcocked when I found that some of my bolts were out halfway and worn almost in half. Also on my halfshaft bolts a few came of with only my one finger turnong them. It was a good thing I got under it when I did... I would hate to think of the damage had the bracket holding the transverse link had finished couming the rest of the way out, or the halfshafts had fallen off on the road.

Hey y'all, I just got my new set of eiback springs from Motorsport auto. No directions. I just need to confirm... Do the shorter springs go in front or back? Thanks Nick

Nevermind on the torque specs they are in one of my repair manuals. If anyone needs them shoot me an email and I would eb happy to post them.

Thanks Jon, Do you or does anyone know where I might find the torques specs?

Hello All, I got to working on th 74.5 260 2+2 I got a few months ago. I decided I needed to replace the springs and struts. So I bought he poly bushing set from black dragon and went to town. To my horror several of the bolts holding on things like the transvers link and even one of the half shafts were only finger tight. GOOD THING I Broke it down when I did and stopped driving it! My questions is this. Is her any reason I shouldn't use the locktite on all of the stationary bolts when remounting them? I am actually hopping to be done today or tomorrow. Thanks, Nick

Ac compressor is on the drivers side. I think the previous owne is bs ing you. The electronic fuel pum is under the car rith next to and almost abov ethe fuel tank in the rear. If you want I will show you pictures of my 260 2+2 which has teh Stock AC installed and functioning properly. Nick

Job is fairly strightforward. Just do a real thorough check of the head when you hav3e it off and make sure you do let the chain drop too far in. Not impossible to get out if you, just an extra step.

Try these links they should get you what you need http://www.datsunzparts.com/UsedParts/Parts.htm http://www.zparts.com/home.html http://www.blackdragonauto.com/ http://www.zcarsource.com/ http://www.motorsportauto.com/ Nick

it's your car begging you "please don't beat me anymore mommy dearest I won't be a bad car anymore" I think the very notion of trying to do this kind of crap is asinine. You wouldn't drain your oil into a ming vase or take a dump in your fine china would you? Then why destroy something as nice and hard to replace a good performing classic? Unless you have already abused it to the point that it is junk. In which case blow it up for all I care. Its your car.

I had a real problem with the Flowmaster series 40 resonating around 55 to 65 mph (guessing 95 to 115 KMH for those of you on the metric system) so I changed it to a turbo style muffler. It was cheaper sounded fine and didn't resonate so loud in and under the the car. I like it just fine.

After pulling apart teh steering column and checking all contact poits with a VOM I found out that it was acutall the switch that controls the Hazards in th ecenter console. It turns out that the hazards switch was dirty. Once I clean the contacts on it, the turn signals started working. By the way, Thanks EScanlon for the help. It was what put me on the right track.

I will have to do this on Monday. As Soon as I do I will let you know the results. Thanks you very much for the help and tips. I will keep you posted

Yes I replaced the relay for the turn signals but not the hazard relay. Hazards are fine turn signals just stopped working.

Hello all, I just got my 260 2+2 on Sunday. All was working fine. Yesterday I took it out and for some reason no turn signals. The Hazard flashers work fine. Went to the parts store bought a new relay and nothing no clicking nothing. So I cleaned the contacts on the Hazard flasher unit and they still work fine, but no turn signals. So I took apart the column and cleaned all of the contact areas and the horn, which wasn't working before works, but still no turn signals. I need help I don't quite know where to go from here and I am not the most savy at readign schematics. Any advice from an expert would be helpful. Thanks Nick

Don't worry about i got it. There was no oil in it. There was however oil all over it on the bottom from a leak in the valve cover gasket. I do need the clamp on fitting for the vacuum tank so any idead there would be appreciated. Thanks Nick

Hello All, I just bought my first z today. A 1974 260z 2+2. I used to work on them for my uncle, mainly R & R, so I am not totally unfamiliar with the car, only certain parts of it. My question concerns the large plastic bottle which if I am correct is the vacuum tank for the heat/ac controls. I noticed some oil was sprayed up on my hood after I ran the car for approximatley 200 mile today getting it from it's old home to it's new one with me. I started looking at wherethe oil like substance came from and it looked like it may have come from the vacuum tank. I know that may sound wierd, but there is some black fluid in there. one of the fittings is loose and cracked. Should there be any oil in there? If not how would it get there? I appreciate all of your expert help. Thanks Nick