jcox

just replaced head gasket and during my reassembly I thought of a quick question and hoping someone here can provide the answer. I have the timing chain set up with the bright links in the correct position on cam and crank @ TDC. My question is whether or not the bright links should always be in the same position when at TDC? So if I turn the engine over several times and when I return to TDC will the bright links be in same position on the sprockets? Thanks

I've searched but no clear results yet. I have an old 280z dizzy that I would like to use on my 240 versus an aftermarket solution. I see mostly zx dizzy solutions but I'm more interested in getting the car running rather than performance at this point. I want to use what I have on hand which is the old dual points dizzy (which is my suspected culprit) or the 280 dizzy. Prob not a popular solution but looking for economical fix for starts. If so any wiring diagrams out there that anyone knows of? Thanks

so not all hope is lost... I will check the points and let you know. Thanks

I do get 12v to the coil (+) and the coil (-) is going to the dizzy. So maybe I am stupid when it comes to this stuff. At this point I am just trying to verify that I'm getting fire from the coil. Will points prevent simply getting fire from the coil? I'm taking a very simplified approach with one step at a time to resolve the issue. I just want a spark from the coil, I'm sure my questions about points will soon follow. Thanks.

check on all... man this is getting frustrating. I do have another question. I was testing the coil by running a wire directly to 12v (+) battery to (+) coil and then running wire from coil (-) and tapping to ground with switch on and I do get spark. So the coil still checks out OK. As I was doing this I ran a test light from battery (+) and started just probing around the distributor and coil areas. I get continuity from all points coil (-) and (+), both ends of ballast resistor, black wire running from coil to dizzy and all areas of dizzy (even the housing). I don't know much about the electrical principals so my question is whether or not this is normal? This is all with the ignition in the off position.

the cap would prevent spark from the coil? Just to clarify that all I want at this point is to make sure the coil is functioning properly. I'm trying to determine why it will throw a spark with one distributor (the later model with dual points) and not the one that came off of it (single contact)? I'm checking only from the HT wire from coil to chasis. My first thought was maybe a ground issue but I don't know.

After banging my head for about a week trying to get fire from the coil I was able to get some help from this forum and finally see a flame! To make a long story short I ended up pulling the distributor from my 73 (dual points) and put it into the 72 just to see what happened. Well what happened was I had a spark from the coil. My problem now is figuring out what the problem is with the original distributor. I need to put the test distributor back into the 73. Does anyone know of any specifics that could cause the dizzy to prevent the spark from the coil. Keep in mind I'm just trying to get the spark from the coil, I'm not concerned at this point of what happens after it gets to the dizzy. I'm just trying to see the spark from the main coil wire to the ground. My thought is as long as the coil (-) wire to the dizzy is clean, tight etc. that would be the only thing to have any effect on the spark from the coil? I don't have a lot of experience with these things so it may just be my ignorance? Any help is appreciated.

we have a spark! This issue has been driving me crazy and finally after a week of pulling my hair out I'm ready to move on and try to get this thing running. I'm pretty sure that without the help from this forum... especially "EScanlon" that I would still be spinning my wheels. The advice that helped me the most was checking the distributor. As recommended by "E" I did check the ground at the distributor (removed cleaned and reassembled and still had nothing). With the known fact that there could have been something at the distributor to prevent fire from the coil I started looking at my options for the quickest test possible. The easiest thing for me was to pull the distributor from my 73z (dual points) plop it in and you guessed it... fire! I've never been so happy to see that little blue spark. That problem now solved and ready to move to the next one. However that does present a new question and that is what at the distributor is causing the issue? What should I check on the original distributor? I would like to put the distributor back into the 73 and remedy the original (distributor single point). Is it best to just replace it or try to find another used one? Keep in mind that I will probably be selling this car after I get it running and do a few minor repairs. So to some it up... I had it all wired correctly, checked, checked, and rechecked all wires for proper continuity, new coil, condenser, br, coil wire, checked voltage at all wires etc. and was convinced that I just had some wires in the wrong place. I was convinced that I was just missing something and kept going over it again and again. This issue is my first post and I'm sure you will hear from me again... I will check this forum first from now on! Thanks guys!

I appreciate the advice and it gave me more to check but I'm still not having any luck. I've attached a pic of what I have and it should give some detail instead of trying to write everything out. I think the biggest question is why I don't get any fire at all going directly from the battery (+) to the coil (+). Maybe I'm not doing that correctly... I'm basically running a wire with clips from the battery to the coil and then turning the ignition but all I get is it turning over with no fire? I've also included a couple of pics of my garage... yes I have a problem!

thanks for the info... I'll go through this afternoon and let you know what I come up with.

I know this has been gone over and over again and is probably getting a little old for those of you that have contributed to solve these issues. But if you're still up for a challenge I've got one. I picked up a 72 that had several components like starter, voltage regulator, coil, ballast resitor, etc that had obviously been parted out and missing. I replaced the missing parts and wired everthing back from the engine bay harness with a systematic approach to get her to the point of turning over. Thinking that I had made great accomplishments (being a novice) just to hear the engine turn over. I was ready for the next step of putting fire to the engine and hearing her roar! ("roar"... only because there is no pipe connected to the exhaust manifold). Keep in mind that I only want proof of fire at this point so I wanted to check fire from coil first and then take it from there. Fire from coil is where I've been stuck for about a week now. I've read all posts I can find. Followed every bit of information that's been out there more than once and can't figure out what the problem is. Without going into much detail I've checked the continuity on all the wires according to diagrams and the posts on this issue. Checked connections over and over. I've replaced the coil, plug wires (although only using the coil wire for this step), I checked the Tach wires (even tried a different tach). I have ran a wire from battery (+) to coil (+) and still nothing (I only get the ACC Relay switch click, which also happens with ignition switch). That would leave me to believe it's the coil, but I first tried the coil from the 72 to start my 280 and it cranked right up. I then purchased a new coil but had the same results. I've checked the grounds to the best of my ability (any specific places to check might be helpful) The only suspect I have is the ignition switch (although all wires check out when testing according to several post I've read). I say this because it appears to be a newer switch than what I have to compare to. This switch has an all black body and just appears to be newer. It also has 2 black wires that are incased (they appear to be red/blue on other switches I've seen) on the left of the switch body and one of them is a male connector that is not connected to anything nor is there anything to connect it to. I need your help... please! :stupid: