xs10shl

Alan, great analogy on the 911S vs R. Also, the Homologation write up is much appreciated, and helps put some context to the overall picture. Can you additionally clarify the point when Nissan deployed the Lucas FI for the s20, and how that affected performance of the s20 engine? I've seen period pictures of installations in a C10, but not in a PZR. Not much is written or known about it, but some loosely researched articles suggest that properly tuned FI engines could add upwards of 50 BHP (perhaps aided by different internals? Hotter cam? ). On the topic of Homologation, would FI be homologated for a C10 or PZR, or is that considered more in the "factory prototype" category? As an aside, I spent only 10 precious minutes driving a 911R a few years ago, and I can confirm that it feels, sounds, and goes like no ordinary 911. I may never get the chance again (sigh!).

Nice info, Alan. Since all the tubs were built in at once (which makes a lot of sense to do), and 20 or so were sold, I wonder if perhaps some unused tubs are out there hidden away somewhere? Wishful thinking! With respect to the series 1 and 2 denomination, I suppose it's an old habit. To the best of my knowledge, sometime in 1971 Nissan updated the unibody in several key places, and I've always called them "series 1" and "series 2", perhaps liberally so. It appears that in this case, the PZs all have the earlier bodies anyways, given their early build date.

Great pictures of some of the details. Thanks for sharing images of this important car. To my eye, this car has several series one attributes- I'm looking at the firewall and the gearbox mount- what did the z432r-specific metal stampings look like on the series 2 cars? Were they similar or updated to series 2 specification?

Without any hard data, I'd venture that perhaps 15-20% are either roadworthy, or can be made roadworthy with a reasonable amount of cost. The limiting factor IMHO is the cost of repairing rusted tubs. With enough funds, you can rebuild and register an entire car around a serial number, so in theory, 100% survive as a serial number, but not all are currently roadworthy.

Just my .02, it's likely too early to tell where Z's are going to end up on the price-curve. The market sweet spot right now is cars from the late 50's to mid 60's, and anything that rhymes with "Jerrari". As to a price comparison, for cars such as a Z or British roadster, so much depends on condition - basket cases are a few thousand, and great examples are tens of thousands. British cars benefit from a longer history and lineage, whereas most Japanese manufacturers didn't produce mature products until much later, which may explain some price discrepancies. Based on what I've seen, sometimes the budget cars end up being the more valuable ones, due to buyer sentiment - Porsche speeders with VW engines now start at $220K restored. An early VW bus with the right configuration is 6 figures, and I've seen more than one of those the side of the road with an engine fire in my lifetime. People want what they remember lusting after as children, and what tugs at them emotionally, irrespective of what kind of a car it is in reality.

I wonder if you're better off buying one of the repop fat 5-speed knobs and lathing it down? The shift map is not identical to the original style, but it might still provide decent results. Anyways, I sympathize with your plight. I managed to find a good used 5-speed thin knob in Japan for a cool $150, but I'm also in need of another, so if anything comes to fruition, I'd be interested in one.

Agree those Series 1 wing emblems are tough to source in any kind of decent shape. They are an excellent candidate for some aspiring modeler to re-pop using a good example and a 3-D printer. Id personally love to find another "NISSAN" hatch emblem (the one that actually says "Nissan"), but ive only ever seen them on the early S30 Zs. Are they on any other models?

Wow! Impressive work. It looks especially good seeing that you avoided painting over the nuts and bolts. Did you know that you can buy silver fittings for your oil cooler lines, to replace the blue ones? Ive done that on some of my cars, and ive found it looks ok- at least it doesn't draw attention. Unfortunately, no one makes a mat-black finish vinyl hose that i know of, so the hoses still stay shiny.

Kats, it's really great to see the fantastic work you are doing on your car. Your ability to source rare and interesting parts makes adds so much value to your posts!

Speaking of Air cleaner boxes - I have Webers on my car, which the air cleaner is clearly not designed to be used with, because of the stamping which protrudes between the intake holes. On a DCOE carburetor, the two barrels are flush with the body of the carburetor, so a spacer is required at the end of the barrel in order to have the air cleaner attach properly to the carburetor. I imagine anyone who put Webers on in period was running without the air cleaner, unless there's something I'm missing.

I personally have not has as much success with the 151 as I have with period carbs. Glad you got it working again.

I bought a set a while back, and I think I paid $250 for them, which was probably too much. They were in fine shape, but I haven't bothered to see if I can retrofit a modern lens to them, so I can't offer you any advise to that effect.

From a 240K brochure. Some great self-depricating language in the wording: "The Skyline interior is roomy, but not vast. The back is no place to hold a party . . ."

Just to echo Alan's comments, my early JDM cars with the flasher option do not have "Pass" written on the turn signal stalk. With respect to the parking light switches, I believe the center switch (with white dots) is the type I've seen most frequently on the early series 1 cars. The way those mount is the same for series 1 console panels I've seen, both with and without the "ON" label embossed on the console panel. I cant say about the other 2 sets, as their mounting brackets are different from what I've seen and used. Others may have more information than myself, this has just been my limited experience.

Time to query Alan about finishing his own soon-to-be-marvelous Z42-R tribute. I saw pictures posted on another website a few days ago - car looks fantastic- a top job from what I could tell. Care to post some more pictures here Alan? I think there's a statute of limitations on how long you're allowed to ignore a restoration before finishing it, !

Alan, thanks. Agree on all points- tonight a group of 4 of us prepping our cars for Monterey took time off for dinner to get together and discuss cars. We concluded how easy it would be to start buying up a particular marque or model, pay a publicist to generate hype around it, and sell when the market goes up. Stuff in print somehow becomes fact- its probably a byproduct from the days when we all got our information from reputable sources like encyclopedias. Nowadays everyone with a keyboard can become an expert.

Looks to be a nice car- the shell appears to be an earlier shell from 1970 from the few tell-tale signs I know about, as suggested in the article. Unfortunate if it was billed as an R, but turns out to be a tribute. Really, theres no shame in having a Z432, or a nicley redone s30 made to look like an R, so long as its honestly represented, IMHO. It looks to have some nice pieces , like a 100L fuel gauge. It would have been nice to see close-ups of some of the other rarities, like the oil cooler. Just asking, did the Rs come with finned differential housings?

Great Youtube clip. It was posted by a Japanese Blogger, whose other posts offer some interesting comments on various topics, like the origins of the Yamaha A550X, development of the Toyota 2000GT, and a link to a magazine called Carzy. Carzy in-turn had a story about the long-missing-and-presumed-lost-forever 2nd Toyota 2000GT cabriolet turning up in a warehouse under a pile of junk. If that claim can be substantiated, then the owner of that car is sitting on one of the most prized automobiles to ever come out of Japan. http://mizma-g.cocolog-nifty.com/blog/ http://www.carzy.net/en/

I've got 4 wrenches with same print, same pliers, black handled flat-head screwdriver, and a different wheel lug wrench, the latter two of unknown origin. Bag is the same. Also have a wood handled flathead screwdriver, which seems totally out of place.

Second the note on easing a good power supply. Batteries rarely yield good results, in my experience.

Listing ended. Someone got a good deal.

Don't get me wrong, I simply feel that in cases where it's not too much more effort (or seemingly no more effort) to make near-perfect replicas, it's disappointing when manufacturers don't. That said, I know that sometimes we just don't have a choice. In thinking about it, its not as big of a problem in the Z world as it is in the Alfa world, where perhaps half the repro items available are crap.

And die-hard Porsche fans dial 901 first. You'll get the Peugeot help desk, where they tell you to bug off.

Someone already makes a fairly good repro of the S1 knobs but in limited quantity. I've seen repops of the tail light bezels as well which look nice but are pricey- if memory serves, they were near the cost of original pieces. The main issue with many Z repro pieces out there for me is the obvious fact that they are not indistinguishable from original pieces. Some people won't care, but I think as time passes, "original-looking" will become more important.

Oem center console for a 69-70. Ive been looking for over a year now. Repops just aren't the same. (I guess that's not too small a part). Oem 5-speed thin-style shift knobs are not easy to come by, or oem headlight lens covers. There are a few Z432-specific pieces which will run into 4 figures if you can find them.