xs10shl

Here is the evaporator and misc pictures. Lots of crazy stuff! I'm surprised it all fits under the console.

On other cars I've done I've tended to powder coat what I could, because it's an inexpensive and durable finish. Perhaps it's also being a little lazy, because I don't have to clean the parts in advance - I can just hand them a grimy part and get back a new-looking part. Many powdercoaters who deal with car parts know where to place plugs so that holes don't get too small for bushings and the like. One thing to make sure of is that you check mission-critical suspension points for cracks prior to powdercoating, if you go that route.

With Alan on this one - I've driven a stock 432 setup and it works quite well. The setup I have now works fine, too, but it's just not correct for the car. Checking into correct 5-speed ratios - I'm sure Alan knows it of the top of his head, but I'm just learning .

More pics showing the guts of the temperature control system. Looks like there's 2 switches and a vacuum switch. I have no real idea what parts are original, and which are retrofitted. I can't seem to find any other pictures of the factory A/C controls on this site or elsewhere, so I've got nothing to compare it to.

I myself need a 4.44:1. A previous owner of my Z432 had changed out the 71A and r192 for a B box and R200. Works great, but I'd like to return the car to stock by next ZCON (which gives me 12 short months). By a minor miracle I found a proper bell housing, so now I'm seeking the other stuff. When I saw this craigslist ad I thought my prayers had been answered, but car has an r180 and 280z gearbox.

If you have not had one, I'd second a Giulia 1600 stepnose or GTA clone. Tons of value for money. Early 911s are great as well, but parts are slightly more expensive. I've owned both a giulia GTV and a 73 911, and they are truly fantastic machines, with rabid followings (almost to a fault).

Let me know as well if you want to sell more than 1. I'm looking for a new or properly rebulit one, in the $2000 range I would imagine. Any leads would be appreciated!

Figure of speech . . . No offense intended. It was meant more as a compliment to the clean install.

I think if you re-routed the plug wires and added an angular extension piece onto the intake manifold to place the SUs at an angle, you'd be well on your way to fooling all but the die-hard enthusiasts. I wonder if some variant of Healey cam cover can be fashioned to work? I like Bruce's idea . . . .

Here's a few pictures of my installation on a 1970 Fairlady Z-L. This installation probably contains some Nissan parts, but may have been added at a later date. For example, the location of vacuum canister is under the passenger footwell in this installation, and not in the engine bay. I did not include pictures of the compressor, as it is clearly not a factory piece, with a home made mount. Center console has not yet been dismantled, so I will post a few more photos as things come apart.

Exactly what I needed, thank you!

Does anyone have translations for the options list on the Fairlady Z flier provided by Alan in Post 13? Or perhaps you have it, Alan? I'm in the process of restoring a 1970 Fairlady Z-L, and I've just discovered this very handy list above, which will help me figure out what should be on the car, and what may be missing. From what I've deduced so far, "/\" is optional, "O" is standard, and "--" is N/A. From what I've gathered so far: First Column: Option 1: 5 Speed gearbox Option 2: Bigger Tire? Option 3: A/C Option 4: ? Option 5:? Option 6:? Option 7: Rally Clock? Option 8: Clock? Option 9: Reclining Seats Option 10: _____ lights Option 11: Second Column: Option 1: Option 2: Option 3: Option 4: Option 5: Option 6: __________ Glass (Defroster?) Option 7: Option 8: Option 9: Option 10: Footrest ____ Option 11:

Here's a photo of the interior - on the control bezel, you can just make out the extra setting on the top lever for "cool", and the central lever is used for temperature control, ranging from "Heat" to "cool". The photo I have of the engine does not show the compressor. Apologies in advance for lack of clarity of the pictures - I bought the car sight unseen, and I did not bother to take extra pictures when I went to deliver it for restoration. I spent no time on the A/C - instead I was fawning over the condition of the series 1 dash and all the other lovely series 1 bits on the car.

That looks to be similar- there may be some pieces missing. Car has a rotary compressor which led me to believe that it was at least a replacement, but this diagram also shows what appears to be a rotary setup. I was not aware of any company using rotary compressors in place of York compressors in 1970.

Sorry to dig up this old thread but I'm looking for information on my AC system. I have a 1970 JDM s30 which has an L20, and it has AC in it. Kats had mentioned in his Z432 thread that Fairlady Z's were available from the factory with A/C from 1969 (Japanese domestic cars, not 240z's) I'd like to know if anyone has any other data or information about these types of installs - were they factory or dealer installs, or perhaps the information is not really accurate after all, and this was a kit from the late 70's or 80's? Point being is that if it is true that the factory installed A/Cs, then it would follow that there is such an item as a Factory A/C kit for an s30, it was just not available when new in the 240Z, Z432, or 240ZG. This particular setup has a heater control panel with a different sticker on it, which has an extra setting for "cold" - for all I know it's just something that someone printed on their laser jet, but it looks real enough. I didn't get a look at the guts of the internals of this switch - car is being restored at the moment, but I'll try to get a few pictures before everything comes apart. Here is the link to Kat's post: http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?25575-Datsun-240z-Vs-Fairlady-z432&p=338583&viewfull=1#post338583 Either way, it wasn't operating when I got the car, and I'd venture to say it doesn't work very well even when fully functional.

My exact thoughts - It's just too far away for me to check it out.

Seems to be missing some tough to get pieces, like C-pillar badges. I'm in need of some myself. Its my understanding that it should have a 5 speed, L20, and different differential than the 240z. I've driven one and I can confirm that the proper setup makes the car quite fun to drive- for me, more enjoyable than a stock 240z. Well, that is of course subjective and open to personal preference. Nevertheless, those drivetrain parts should be with the car for it to make any sense to attempt a restoration, IMHO.

There's always exceptions- I don't make the rules, but I am familiar with the equations. I've got 2 Z cars myself, and have little interest in Mustangs. I once witnessed a guy bid $600,000 for a Boss 429 a few years ago at Barrett-Jackson, and I nearly fainted. Not my thing, but a lot of people can identify with them. Nicely maintained, early 240Z's with no needs can easily get into the teens, so there is a ready market out there for good cars. I would expect that fully restored examples will regularly push into the $40s at some point into the near future.

"Z" + "project" = $0 The same is true with just about every high volume car of this era.

If you want to come by the shop and look at mine you are welcome to. Prefer that to giving you measurements myself - that way you'll know exactly what the numbers mean.

Keep on going, sounds like you've got all the pieces you need to get things done. I've found it to be helpful to set a goal to show it, like at JCCS for example. There are more of us with Kenmeris now - heck we should all go to JCCS.

Just based on my own experiences, in this situation it's likely I'd value the car in the price range of cars in need of body work, followed by a respray, and discount the otherwise original components. Had the car been 10K miles with salvage title because of a theft and subsequent recovery by the insurance company, but otherwise totally unmolested, I'd probably be more willing to overlook the title issue in lieu of the car's otherwise original condition. In this case, it appears to my eye to have not been repaired to specification (hood fit appears off, but the picture could be misleading). Because bodywork may have to be involved to return the car to bone stock, along with the salvage title, I'd probably end up taking a pass altogether. All that said, there's a buyer for every car, and it's worth what someone will pay - I hope you get your asking price! I'm pretty picky, and I probably don't represent the norm when it comes to prospective buyers. Just an armchair-quarterback's opinion, with no skin in the game.

It would be great to see some sketches. IMHO the sketch on ZHome looks more like a 2 door full-size coupe than a hatchback. Headlight treatment reminds me of a 65 thunderbird with 2 headlights instead of 4. (not my pictures. credit to image owners) <img src=http://www.driveclassiccoupe.com/includes/images/Ford_Thunderbird/1965FordThunderbird.jpg><img src=http://zhome.com/History/Ford/Blowup2.jpg>

Anyone have any idea if either early/late covers will fit better on steel vs. Fiberglass headlight cases?

Alan, I think it would be entirely appropriate for me to get a friend to write an article matching the cars go head-to-head. Both cars need a little attention, after which I'll start making a few phone calls. The Porsche is a stock 73 911E coupe. They are pretty squirrely cars, with vague shift patterns - but they have good performance, and the build quality is superb, IMHO. My sense is whomever coined the phrase "Poor Man's Porsche" was really just talking hyperbole about the badges, as opposed comparing to the cars themselves. Granted, there isn't much that compares to the 911- it is a truly odd-ball design that has somehow managed to endure. IMHO the modern cars owe an enormous debt to steamroller tire technology, without which they would suffer more than other cars.