Glliw

Thanks for the warm re-welcome guys. I know it'll be a challenge finding a rust free/low rust one but I can wait some and always can rent a car dolly it far away. Trust me, I'm a massive Craigslist/ebay/forum post troll right now for one. I guess the main thing is I don't want to have to repaint the car at this point. So some light floorboard rust could be managed but doglegs/quarters, etc need to be in good shape for me. To Carl Beck's post...I'd say my wants fall into a b or c category. I would like something that has a mostly clean interior/exterior. I could care less what's going on in the engine bay at this point. Whether its empty, 350, L24, or anything else...it doesn't matter much as I'll wind up putting what I want into it.

Hey everyone, A few years ago I had sold off my Z to help pay to get my degree in Mechanical Engineering but thankfully, that decision among many others got me a good job so I'm back to get back into another S30! Just wanted to re-introduce since its been ~4 years since I was last on here. My name's Will and I'm new to the Milwaukee area so if any of you have a rust free 240-280 laying around, lemme know!

Gahh, yea, the one I have is for a 280z...I even asked the dude when I ordered it from him if it was early 260z compliant. I looove setbacks.

Yea, sorry I always forget to specify year. Its a early '74 260z. I'm pretty sure the one I have has the hole.

Okay, so when I had bought my car, it didn't come with a splash pan underneath it. i bought one a few months ago and just now got around to being able to see how it goes on up there. Basically, I'm in for some "fun." It looks like there's 9 bolt holes and only 2 of those don't have bolts broken off in them. I can easily drill and tap these out though, just time consuming. Also, the fitment is off. The front two bolt holes on the side of the splash pan don't line up with their holes. A bracket for something of which I don't know what it is keeps it from getting to where it needs to be. Also, the front 3 bolt holes do not sit flush with where they are supposed to sit ( I believe the underside of the radiator support? Been half a day since I was down there...). Is my car missing another bracket or did I get the wrong splash pan or am I just plain good ol' fashioned dumb? Thanks, Will

The alternator might have a bad diode.

Yea, I'd figure the easiest way to tell would be to try to put it in 5th. You can always check the numbers on the transmission though.

A new tank or a good used one is going to run you a pretty penny. If I were you, and I probably am, I would pull the tank and POR-15 it myself. Much cheaper that way.

Cars look great, sounds like it was a fun day!

Its even featured on the game's box.

Thanks for the insight walter. I have an extra mechanical pump waiting for me here in a few days as well as a stock electrical pump to throw back on the car. With those two in place, I can only assume the problem will be resolved now. This winter though I think I'm going to drop the tank and re-do the vent lines...tired of the smell of gas in the car!

Anyone mind commenting of the fuel pressure findings?

I certainly plan to. I do not see this being a lean condition, being that it got 8 mpg and still had the problem. I'm gonna pull the plugs here in a couple days and see how they are looking now that i leaned it back up. Also, the floats were set when i put new needles/nozzles in a week or so ago.

Nope, couldn't find any cracks splits. I referenced the Taylor website, and they said 350 ohms/ft. So I believe I'm well within spec. Looks like a dead end to me, thanks for the idea though. Next thought?

Got the numbers on the wires for ya. These were with the DMM set to 20k ohms Coil wire: .49 From front of car to rear: .82 .77 .87 .87 .89 .94 These are Taylor Spiro Pro 8mm wires.

K I'll do it within the next hour. Have to wait on a friend so I can borrow a multimeter since I'm 400 miles from mine. I'll post up ASAP when I get the numbers.

Ok, cool. DMM is just shorthand for digital multimeter yes?

Update: Installed a 0-15 psi fuel pressure gauge today right after the pump. After installing it, I saw the needles bouncing radically from 2-3 psi, and 3-4 psi when I revved and held the motor at a higher rpm. However, I had forgotten to close the gas cap. So, after closing the gas cap, I saw a reading of 0-1psi at idle and 1-2 revved up. With the choke out I would see 1-2 at idle and 2-3 revved up.

They have not been replaced, but they have been checked to a degree. Each plug looks fine. Each wire looks fine. Each wire when pulled from the plug fires decently well.

Right. I just went back over your procedure. When checking with a multimeter I guess the car needs to be in the "on" position, or no?

Another Update: To whomever suggested a stock air cleaner helping, it did not. Still the good ol' turd that it has become to know itself as. I had planned to put a fuel pressure gauge in line after the pump today as well, but with the limited space between the pump outlet and the hardline(about 4 inches) I couldn't and will have to go back to the parts store and get some fuel hose to route the sucker. Hopefully that finds faulter in the pump. Should it be 3 psi at all rpms? Just idle? Any other suggestions you guys have, throw 'em at me. I'm all ears at this point. -Will

Okay, an update for you guys. I replaced the needles/nozzles in the carbs because one of the needles was worn. I also found that the fuel return line has a major blockage in it and whilst trying to blow clear the line with air, the line itself busted. For now, I have routed the fuel return line into the fuel tank vent line and reconnected at the rear of the car the vent line to the return nipple on the tank. However, I STILL have a bucking under acceleration when warm. It is NOT overheating. The timing checked out to be 10 degrees and all cylinders are firing.

Bah, skipped my mind amongst all the chaos this week with trying to pass calc/chem tests. I will wednesday. I swear, Thanksgiving I'm grabbing a boatload of tools to bring down here to UCF...can't live without 'em.

Which pump specifically are you running? The cam is stock. Its the stock distributor and is electric. -Will

UPDATE: I changed the fuel filter and it didn't seem to help much. I think overall the biggest culprit is ambient air temp. Time to start looking for an electric fuel pump I guess. Another note, I took apart the old fuel filter to find it very browned. Whether this was a problem or not, it was on its way out. -Will