ConchZ

I've used Dr. Colorchip on a couple of vehicles, with results that looked as good as their adds claim.

I need the right side windshield squirter nozzle for my 73. I've found them online used, which is fine, but I remember a thread where someone was using a Maxima or some other model's nozzle, with better results than the originals. Does this ring a bell for anyone? I've searched, but can't find the thread I'm thinking about. BTW, here's a tip. If your nozzle is clogged, be very careful you don't snap off the sewing needle inside it when you are cleaning it. Thanks, Matt

I put Eibach springs, with KYB GR2 struts on my 73. I also went with poly bushings. The car is tight, as the new bushings removed all the slop that was in the steering from the worn out rubber bushings. It also handles great. It impresses the heck out of me every time I throw it into a corner. I don't like it, though. It has a buzzing vibration at speed that isn't bad, unless you drive it for over a couple of hours. It isn't my daily driver, but I like to take it on trips. I may switch the steering coupler, mustache bar and rear control arm bushings back to rubber to see if that helps, as I think that's where the vibrations are the most likely to be transmitted into the car. I also don't like the drop in ride height. The Eibach springs drop it about an inch from stock, as do all new springs that you can buy today, except ArizonaZ's springs or coilover setups. It looks good lowered, and gives more stability at speed. It just causes it to bang the mud flaps on the speed bumps in my neighborhood, and you have to be careful when parking against curbs. I'd rather have that inch back, because my daily driver is a Tacoma with off-road suspension, and I am used to ground clearance. My Tacoma feels like a Caddy, compared to the 240, BTW. I put in all new strut mount insulators, but used stock 240 ones. I understand that you can use 280 insulators to get the inch of ride height back. If I ever take it apart again, I'll try that. I'm not sure about the ride height on your 260z, though. Better do some research, unless you think you'll be happy with it slightly lowered.

Shock collar dog was my fav. As for the band, I think they go with old guys because of Janet Jackson. Old dudes don't have wardrobe malfunctions, at least not the same way.

I used Ensolite layered over RAAMmat BXT II. Before, my transmission tunnel was unbearbly hot if I drove it for over an hour in the summer. Now it is warm, but bearable. Thing is, I had to put on two layers of RAAMmat, followed by three layers of Ensolite on the tunnel, and beneath and behind the drivers seat, where the exhaust runs. I wish I had put on more layers, and might redo the tunnel insulation before summer starts again. A tip on using Ensolite, or any closed cell foam sheeting, is to take your transmission tunnel vinyl and lay it upside down on a large piece of card board (or otherwise protect your floor with something that won't be hard to peel off the sticky vinyl). Spray it with glue, and lay your sheets of foam insulation on it, gluing on as many layers as you want. I suggest 4 layers if using Ensolite, which is kinda thin. After the glue dries, turn it over. You can then trim the excess foam off, following the pattern of the vinyl. If you do it this way, you'll only be squirming around inside the car one time, as you install the laminated stack. Otherwise, you're going to have to put layer after layer on that tunnel, which is backbreaking. Don't go all original and pay extra for some old stinky piece of horsehair jute or whatever that was I pulled off the tunnel. Nobody will know if you just use some closed cell foam. Be sure its closed cell, because open cell can absorb water and stink. Best thing is to use something like Ensolite that is designed for automotive use, because it is supposed to be less flamable. One more comment is that I bet you have a hard time putting the vinyl on your rear wheel arches. It is a very tight and awkward fit, and I think your layers of insulation will make it challenging to install the vinyl. It's probably doable, and given the patience and attention to detail that you have shown on the insulation install, you'll get the vinyl looking good. I skipped the insulation on those arches for that reason. Lot of noise from the arches, so let me know if you pull it off and I might go back and try it. Matt

Thought I'd clean up some hanging chad posts, starting with this one. The solution was to adjust the choke cable so that it lets the choke completely off when the lever is in the off position. This is tricky, because my 73 has 72 carbs, but retained the 73 choke cables. The 73 cables come out on the right side of the fire wall, vs the left for the 72. I think the 73 must have had more travel in the choke mechanism than the earlier carbs, as with the cables adjusted so that when the level is fully forward, the chokes are fully off, you can only pull the lever back halfway before the chokes are fully engaged. Anyway, it's all better now. Doesn't run rich and stinky all the time. Thanks.

The attached explain what I'm talking about. How normal is this? Admittedly, the difference between the height of the left rear and right rear isn't much, but the right rear is definitely lower than the left rear. Maybe I'm being too picky, but I'd like the car to be level. I will say that it now rides a lot better. The old strut inserts were so worn out that I could push the piston in with one finger, and it then won't come back out on its own! The car now feels more sure of itself accelerating through corners, and it the struts don't bottom out any more. It is now obvious how bad the tires are. Gotta make a decision on keeping the wheels, first. That'll be another thread subject.

A Q-tip with brake cleaner on it did the trick. Cleaned out the bleeder screw. Thanks for the "tip".

Thanks for the input on the stainless lines. Per Eibach part numbering convention, instructions from MSA and ZManOfWashington, plus the pictures of GreenZZZ's installation, I'm convinced that the short springs go on the back. During the installation, I noticed that the back springs were soft and short enough to install without a spring compressor. The front ones were not. The back ones are softer at first, but will become stiffer than the front after a certain point. For more info on spring rates, see this link from Atlantic Z Car Club. On my brake caliper bleed issue, I can't get anything to come out of the caliper bleeder. It does still function, but my pedal is very soft. If I can fit an air hose to the bleeder port, I'll disconnect the brake line at the caliper (where fluid will come out), and blow some air backwards through it, I think. The left side caliper bleeds just fine. Would like to use this as an excuse to upgrade to the Toyota calipers, but the existing old 240 calipers barely fit inside my 14" wheels, so I doubt the Toyota's would fit. Matt

In college, I briefly had an 84 Dodge Charger 2.2. I hated that thing. When I married my wife, she came with an 87 Plymouth Sundance. While we didn't have the expected mechanical issues with it, it was so underpowered that it wouldn't go up the mountains around Reno very well. My wife then bought a 95 Pontiac Sunfire. (why she likes the sun cars, I don't know. Maybe she'll get a Solstice next.) That car has to be the lowest quality vehicle I've ever owned. It was neat, when new, because it was one of the first 200 made of that body style, so it was unique for a long time. Over the years, it's had many small problems, but its worst sin is that interior and exterior trim parts just magically fall off of it, including both side mirrors. We still have it. It's our island car. We don't trust it to leave the island, but we don't worry where we park it, either. It's only got 115k miles on it, so it might last a few more years if I keep it up just a little. Holes are starting to rust in the roof, though. I gotta fill them, or it's going to start leaking soon.

I got em in today. Lowered the car back onto its tires, and took it for a drive. It looked good before I left, but when I got back, it was obvious that the right rear was sagging. It was so bad that I couldn't get my hand between the 14" tire and the wheel well. The others are fine. It was dark, and I'm tired. Hopefully, I'll figure this out tomorrow, but I'll take suggestions. The only thing I did tonight check was that the bolts on the top of the strut assembly were still on. My next thing to check is going to be the control arm mount bolts. Maybe they are lose, or worse. No strange noises on the drive, though. I was real careful that the spring was in the top and bottom seats before I installed it, so I assume its not that. I appreciate any suggestions. My initial suggestion to myself is to take it to someone who knows what he's doing. :stupid: I'm glad I did this, because not only did I get to refinish my suspension parts, I discovered that my flexible front brake lines are cracked pretty bad, and that I can't bleed the right front caliper. Something is clogging it up. I can push fluid through the last connection before the caliper, so it has to be a clog in the caliper. Oooh goody, more work to do. Wonder if those stainless steel lines are worth the money... Matt

Seems like you could get these made up in a 40 batch, package it up with the appropriate GM mount and maybe offer a frame snubber option, and sell them through MSA like your wiring packages.

I made the mistake of paypalling Roostmonkey. He added a comment to his Paypall thread saying to stop sending money. I've heard nothing else from him, so I am interested, Dave.

Wwaaiiiit a minute! My wife just peeled back the shipping label, and found a sticker on the box. It says that the part number ending in 01 (taller spring) is the front one! The part number ending in 02 (shorter spring) is the rear one! I will proceed accordingly tomorrow. Can't wait to have a drivable Z again. Mike, I'm curious if you would be happier with your springs reversed. I guess we can compare notes after I put mine in. On a related note, I have been using Chassis Saver paint (similar to POR15) on my suspension parts. Don't store this stuff for more than an hour or two in a plastic go-cup. It will eat right through it. Also, if you get this stuff on you, it won't come off for days. Ask me how I know. Store it in a wax paper cup or a glass jar, and wear gloves (which I did, except that one time). Otherwise, it seems to be good stuff.

I am going to ask Eibach, because every other website says the spring that ends in 001 is the front one, whether it is a Ford, Toyota or Nissan spring. I also found a quote from ZManOfWashington, who sells these exact springs on his website. He says the long one goes in the front. I'm hoping to get Eibach on the phone tomorrow. It would be a lot of work to re-install these if I get it wrong. I'll post what I learn. It is very disappointing that they don't include some simple instructions with the springs, or on their website. The Conch Republic is very windy today. Hurricane Ida is combining with the high pressure to the north to blow us a gale.

Just got my Eibach springs for my 240z, and hope to install them tomorrow. I've already taken out the struts, and am ready to go. Hmm, my short spring ends in an 02, while my taller spring ends in an 01. My shorter spring looks progressive, while my taller spring is looks barely progressive. My short spring is made of a little fatter wire than the taller spring. The short part number is 6305-202. The tall part number is 6305-001. Also, if I install them with the writing right side up, the tightest coils would be on top, BTW. Do I put this shorter spring in front? Interestingly, I'll have to use a spring compressor for the front and rear ones, which others report not needing. Finally, I didn't have any O ring under the gland nut when I took them apart. The FSM shows one. Is it necessary? Probably not, since my old set up didn't have one. There was oil in the strut tubes, which must have stayed in place thanks to gravity. Matt

Frankie, thank you for taking the time to share your trip. Reminds me of the time I moved from Columbia, MO to Reno, NV for my first job out of college. Took much of the same route, but didn't enjoy it like you are. Was driving a 4 banger Ranger, pulling a a tiny U-haul full of the few things I owned. It was a handful for the young kid that I was. I arrived with $300 left in my pocket, but my new coworkers took great care of me. After my first day of work, I came home to them sitting on the doorstep of my little apartment. They had brought me a bed and a couch, neither of which I had. I had been sitting on a bucket, and sleeping on the floor. I'll never forget that trip, or the friends I made out there. Enjoy the West.

Will bumb stops keep people from asking me for money on the street? No wait...that would be a bum stop. Where can I get one of those?

I thought about that, but I'm afraid the bit would snag the viynl. The vinyl is stapled on the backing plate, so I could remove it, drill the holes and restaple, but it'd be a real challenge to restaple it. The wooden jig is a good idea, but what a pain. I can't believe this thing was shipped without the holes already drilled. It must be because some people don't want holes in it.