ConchZ

Thanks Weasel. I'll take any pictures of 73 fuse doors I can get.

I've seen a few cars sell in the 14-16k price range over the past year that were this nice. However, they were done in a less "custom" style. The customization done to this car makes selling it interesting. Either you'll pay more because you like it, or less because its not original. I personally like it, but I'd have to see it in person to pay that much for it. Therein lies the problem. Most people will want to see it before paying that much for a customized Z, which limits the market to those in his local area, and those willing to travel. As for customization, while I like this car, I don't see the need to customize mine much. I've owned my 240 for a year now, and I've only seen one other 240 on the road during that time. It was in fairly rough shape, and the only reason I saw it was I went to a Z club meet. Mine stands out without any customization because a good looking 240 is apparently one of the rarest cars in South Florida. Its an amazing attention getter without being customized to look "different" or "better". Its actually a bit annoying. If I leave it in a parking lot to go shopping, there will usually be someone looking at it when I return. You have to talk to them, as you never be rude to someone who will remember your rare car that you drive frequently...so I spend a lot of time with folks talking about the good old days when they had a Z, or someone they knew who had a Z. Unfortunately, these people are almost always a 40 year old guy, and rarely a nice young lady.

Your difference in exhaust pressure from the back 3 pistons, combined with fuel stink would make me first check that I was getting spark at those 3 pistons, and that the plug wires were on the right plugs. Next thing I'd check is if the rear carb needle is moving up/down properly and that it sits in its seat perfectly. If it doesn't sit down properly at idle, that could cause the fuel stink and poor idle, because its letting too much fuel through. Are the back plugs wet with fuel? You mentioned those SM needles, which means someone must have had the needles out to put those in. Maybe they weren't put in just right? Finally, is the choke returning after you shut it off. If not, that'd contribute to the problem. The fuel stink may be unrelated to the poor running, and just be a bad float bowl gasket, since you've recently had them opened up. I've got that problem on mine right now. Under certain conditions, I get a tiny fuel leak through the float bowl gasket. Doesn't affect how it runs, but it sure stinks when it happens, though. I've got new gaskets, just haven't put them on yet....

I'm trying to restore the lid to the fuse box. It seems that in 1973 they changed how the word "choke" was applied below the yellow choke light. In 73, it seems to be printed on some sort of silver plastic that is glued on top of the black plastic panel. I have no idea what it originally looked like, as ever single picture of a 73 console shows this choke label to be worn off. Does anyone have any idea what it should look like, and how to restore it? Here's a pic of what I'm talking about. Thanks, Matt

car with no glass, meaning water getting on top of the floor boards, AND sitting on wet grass, seems like it could have a lot of Fe203 on those floors. You could play like you're on the SiO2Stones and use your feet for propulsion. Good idea about finding a rust free car and using yours for parts, though.

From your other posts, it sounds like a lot of stuff is right with your car, and a lot of work has already been done on it. It also sounds like you can do a lot of work yourself, which will save you money. Perhaps you shouldn't dump this project just because it needs some more help. Save up and pay someone to fix the stuff you can't. Otherwise, you'll have to shop around for another car, and spend more money getting it. I'd stick with the bird in hand, devil you know and all that....

I recently had my tail light finisher and grill done in Hot Rod Black. I liked it when I saw it on a motorcyle tank. It seems to not have a problem being altered by waxes(I tested that first). Its probably not correct, but it matches the finish on the louvers, and it doesn't get screwed up by wax. I think I'll have the black in my old wheels redone to match it.

They have springs. It could be that the old cushion is shot. Attached is a pic of what came out of mine. From the box of receipts that the PO kept, the seats were recovered in 1985. I suspect the old cushion was reused, but they added the extra padding on top of it. That grass stuff sure did stink. Gone now...replaced with new foam.

A rare time where I did it right the first time. It makes sense that it would go closest to the tunnel, so that it would be less likely to get snagged on your foot or clothes when you enter/exit the car.

When I took my seats completely apart, I didn't mark the bottoms for L/R. It is possible to switch them up when you re-assemble them. The only difference is the side that the seat adjustment lever ends up sticking out from. The attached pictures are of my drivers seat. The seat adjustment lever is coming out on the right side. Can someone check their car to see if I got it right. I have a feeling its backwards. BTW, the white leather upholstery and seat cushions from ClassicDatsun look great. Since I don't have the car back from the shop yet, I set the seat in my living room. It looks like nice furniture, and is very comfortable. They also have more side bolstering than the old worn out ones, which keeps me in my seat better when my living room takes corners. Even better, they smell good. Thanks.

depends on how much rust, vs the cost of having to find all the trim, interior and mechanical parts to put on a roller. I'm repairing a slightly rusty car now. Minor floorboard replacement on the passenger side and moderate to major floor replacement on the drivers side, plus replacement of much of the right rear quarter, the left dog leg, and a patch on the left front shock tower, followed by stripping down and repainting is costing nearly $5,000. Then there's a grand into the bumpers, and another 1500 into the interior vinyl, new seat upholstery and foams, weather stripping, plus odds and ends. Luckily my dash is in easy to repair shape, my frame rails ahead of the firewall are good, the battery tray is good, my mechanicals and electricals are perfect, my interior and exterior door panels are perfect, and the carpet is nearly new. I'd still like to do about $1000 in upgrades to the mechanicals (mainly exhaust and suspension), plus another $1200 in new wheels and tires, but most of that'll have to wait. Anyway, I'd be scared of buying a "roller" without knowing how it became one. In other words, how would you know it wasn't a poorly repaired rust bucket? It'll come to you primered and sealed, with any poorly done repairs concealed. I like being able to watch and learn as the shop does my car. It makes me more confident that the work is being done correctly. Either way, have fun with it. Realize you will spend a fortune to do it, but less than buying a new car. I look at it as recycling. For a few years, this car will be my main transportation when finished (I do have a truck to supplement it, so the miles should go on slowly). I'll drive it, then redo it when necessary. Less cost to me and less environmental impact than the construction and purchase of a new car. As for the LS1 idea, search www.hybridz.org for how to strengthen the body. They say you need to brace up the floors, I believe. Unless you need the extra power, just go with an L28, for ease of maintenance. The L series engines leave so much room in the engine bay that it is easy to work on things. I can drop my wrench, have it fall to the ground, then reach down between the engine and the fender and pick it up. This makes it easy to keep the engine bay clean, too. The LS1 would be fun, though.

I've bought some parts from Norm this year. I got them back on Jan 31st. It was sorta slow, but still reasonable....so he was around at that time. He sometimes lists parts on ebay, but not right now. Hope he's ok. I was hoping to have some items plated by him someday, like my hood latch.