JEFF

A couple of weeks ago some one posted a wiring diagram of both - The stock 240 Tach diagram & a ZX diagram for ZX electronic ignition swap. The diagram for the ZX showed how to hook up wires to make the 240Z Tach work again with the ZX ign. However... I installed a '78 280Z electronic ignition in my '72 240Z. Does anyone know how to hook the Tach up for that swap?? - Jeff

Anything else missing on the 260? - Jeff

Leave Him Alone And He'll Come Home... Eventualy - Jeff p.s. Been there came back.

If the engine was not run for about 9 months and not 'oil fogged' - the problem is most likely stuck rings - A bimetalic corrosion happens to the 2nd compression ring (cast iron to aluminum) when they sit unmoving for a while(months). The same happens to the oil rings. This problem doesn't normaly happen to the top compression ring because it is a chrome ring. - Jeff

UNLESS...... The cam to crank timing is alittle off. The same would hold true - What i mean is that by holding a rag over the carbs you are putting enough gas into the cylinders to fire the engine even if the valves are opening early. If they are opening early the amount of vaccuum created by the pistons down travel would be reduced below normal(reducing compression) - thus the rag over the carbs would force the vaccuum that IS there to suck a little more gas than it would without the rags. If the valves are opening late the vaccuum is started before the valve opens, that makes a sudden large 'gulp' of intake when they do open. If they open late they also close late, letting some of the 'intake' out before the valves close( reducing compression).... thus the rags over the carbs would cause the intake of air/fuel to be richer and still fire even if some gets out early. A compression test will show you if it is a valve timing problem. Do the test twice - FIRST with normal cylinders and all plugs removed - SECOND - with about 2 squirts of oil from a pump can in the cylinders. If the compression goes up with the 2nd test the problem is not valve related. If the compression tests show the same readings the valves are the problem. Timing or leaking. *A leaking head gasket would show the same as leaking valves/valve timing off except that it would be in only 1 or 2 cylinders.* - Jeff

Bingo! - Jeff

OH ! I guess I didn't read it very close. - Jeff

It would take red hot metal or a flame to warp the fiberglass. If your fiberglass is 'rubbing' on the tail pipe viberations from the exhaust & the road could cause it to crack. I would move one or the other a little so they don't touch! Even with them touching....... NO fire hassard. - Jeff

EXELENT Reconditioning Job!! Added that one to my list. Thankyou v12horse ! - Jeff

That water pipe is USED!! seller has been getting High off of it for at LEAST 2 hours before the auction started!:stupid: That is quite pricy for that pipe. - Jeff

Do you have a compression tester? Sounds like the compression may be a little low. Was the car running really good when you bought it? Change the fuel filter ($3.00?) and take the rubber hoses off the bottoms of the carbs clean/replace them - besure that they are very flexable. Take the tops off of the float bowls to clean them out. Try these simple things and you may be suprised at the results. P.s. - parting out a L motor is not easy/fast because the shipping charges - The carbs might sell but will not get much in need of rebuild. - Jeff

Exelent & hypnotizing !!!! - Jeff

I would rather spend my time 'wrenching' on a motor than reading about some products that i can not afford. BUT... Z parts cataloges make good 'restroom reading'. - Jeff

What oil do you use? Try adjusting them when they are hot. In my manual the chart covers 1970 - 1981(non-turbo). The valve chart shows .01" for intake & .012" for exhaust ( HOT ) That would make .008" & .01" too tight when set cold. BUT.... the info that my manual shows would make your valves noisier. It would be easier to 'float' the valves if set at .008" & .01" cold. Are you sure the noise is in the valve train? If you are sure then use a screwdriver - touch it to the valve cover & put your ear on the handle - 'listen to the valves' move it over each section of valves when you hear the noise get louder that is where the problem is. Recheck the valve clearances. - Jeff

My thought about taking it off was that it was/is making a intake leak that goes under the throttle chamber and not through it. If that is what is happening then the TPS is not sending the right signal for the "true" amount of air going through the throttle chamber. Wouldn't that cause a lean high idle? That BCDD does have air passages in it , or at least one. Maybe that the BCDD doesn't have the wire hooked to anything makes that passage open. What do you think? - Jeff

I no longer have the 280 speedo - could I remove the BCDD and block off the opening? I have removed all the other smog stuff, would one more hurt/or majorly effect its running? It was a dead end wire on the 280Z - I thought that it was possibly used for automatic trans cars but due to mass production purposes only some were conected. Not the case?? Two mistakes when getting rid of the parts car : I did not take the dash (even though it was in my lap) & I left the 280 block in it. I did take almost everything else including all the glass and all the rubber plugs/gromets that i could find. - Jeff

Victor - what year of Z do you have? If it is a '72 or '73 I will send you a good one - Cost to you would onlt be the shipping (maybe $5) Lobbest@chartermi.net - Jeff

2ManyZs - Shouldn't a high tempature antiseize be used? I would think that a little oil would burn in there, and if removed again later, would make them all look like the ones that come out next to an exhaust port.......no?? - Jeff

Anyone?? Keeping the post current. - Jeff

WOW that's bad...... I'll take two!!! ROFL - Jeff

80/90 gear oil make a nice cologne, A little behind each ear.... - Jeff

What is the BCDD ( boost controled deceleration device ) for? Emitions during throttle let off? I put a '78 N47 head on my 240 block ( F.I. Electronic ign. - the whole 9 yards ) The BCDD is mounted to the bottom of the throtle chamber. It has one wire coming out of it. That wire was hooked into a plugblock near the speedo but it dead ended there - the '78 Z ran good before I pulled the head and wireing. Now that the head is on the 240 block ........ When I start it up (first piston to the top fires right up) it idles good at about 700 rpm and will stay that way untill I rev the motor once. That's when it will stay idleing at about 2700 - 2900 RPM untill I turn the ignition off. Is this related to the BCDD? Or do I have some thing else wrong? ANY suggestions would be nice! - Jeff

It takes extremly good bodywork to make a black paint job look good. Pictures are forgiving. When you see it in person you will know what is/was under the paint by looking for "waves" in the paint/body when you stand in front or behind it. If you do not see any or very small ones - it was/is a solid car AND/OR it was restored professionaly. My opinion. - Jeff

The nuts in the holes on the trans tunnel are fit in pockets and can be moved in the holes some - maybe as much as 1/4". Try to move them in the direction you need to with a screwdriver first as it is difficult to do it with the bolt through the crossmember holes. I hope that helps. P.S. I can't open any of your pictures. - Jeff