JEFF

I bought mine from MSA - with 240Z embroitered in them. They are high quality and are great looking. - Jeff

From the thermo switch the steel tube,connected to the switch with a short rubber line, goes around the back of the head to the heater hose. - Jeff

On the front end of the intake manifold the fitting goes to the thermostat housing. - Jeff

Mike has it right! The fitting that threads into that hole is a thermo switch for coolant. It opens after the coolant is up to temp. to keep the intake manifold a constant temp.( the intake is designed to close to the exhaust manifold ). - Jeff

I'm sorry - I sold them to the 1st responder. - Jeff

Dave - PLEASE--- Do not throw any Datsun parts in the garbage! Offer them to the rest of us. Some things are hard to come by. - Jeff

Dave - if that set up is the way you like it - plug the PCV off. - Jeff

Sorry I sold them already. - Jeff

Bpaccaud - Doesn't your manual say what type of fuel to use? - Jeff

Rick - I am looking for a full set of nice emblems. How are yours? - Jeff

Daniel and Victor Laury have it right! The air that it is sucking in right now( not hooked up ) is a LARGE vaccuum leak - I bet your carbs are really rich to make up for it. - Jeff

FHK - Welcome to the site!! I see that you are from Huntsville, AL - I bought my '72 240Z from a guy in Huntsville 12 years ago. He had moved up here to Michigan to go to Aviation school to be an "Airframe and Powerplant" mechanic - needed the money,sold me the car! - Jeff

I'm trying to find the 3 piece style. - Jeff

Carl - I went through my whole engine in Febuary. Here are a few things that you might want to do/watch for. 1) If the head gasket that you are using does not have a "sticky" side thats fine - do not add anything to it. 2) I would not recomend loctite on any bolts - But I do recomend a Hi-Temp AntiSeize on all the bolts that thread INTO the Cylinder Head. Something with a high Nickel or copper content(1800 deg.) 3) A few good places to use Permatex (get the black stuff - It's called "Ultra-Black" the # at the bottom of the tube is "598B") is on the valve cover gasket - valve cover side only, on the front cover geskets- both sides, on the oil pump gasket- both sides, on the oil pan gasket- both sides( do not over torque the pan bolts), on the water pump gasket - both sides, on the chain inspection cover at the front of the head, and on the theromostat housing where it mates with the head.---- I did not use it anywhere else on the engine. 4) When you assemble everything - use copious amounts of oil - use the same type of oil that you plan the run the engine with. TIPS(from exp.) DO NOT loose tention on the timing chain while trying to install the timing gear on the cam. To avoid this make yourself a wooden wedge about 4" long on about 15 deg. angle, drill a hole through the wide end and attach a 8" loop of heavy string through the hole, when the chain is set correctly on the crank gear - compress the chain tentioner fully with the chain in place - use the wedge to hold it in that position.( pull the wedge out by the string ONLY after the cam gear and chain are mounted correctly on the cam. Follow your manual closely for the oil pump and distributor shaft installation. If I think of somthing else I'll reply again. - Jeff

Tom- Thanks for the info - I'll retrieve my cataloge from work tomarrow. Cheers - Jeff

I put a full dash cap on my car 10 years ago - still looks perfect:classic:!! I do not like the half caps because of the edge/seam that shows all the way accross the dash. My cap fits into all the guage openings and fits very nice. MSA still sells them. - Jeff

Si|v3r72 - I'm not looking for the seal that goes around the door opening - The piece that I need is only about 8-10 inches long. It's mounted to the door above the hinges. I did not go look up the part #'s you posted - Are they what I described? - Jeff

I'm trying to find the rubber that is attached with push pins/clips at the top front of the doors on a '72 240z. The rubber seals between the door and the fender for wind noise I think. VB did not have it, Datsun Dude did not have it, MSA did not have it, Where else do I look? - Jeff

That sprocket bolt is a right hand thread. Try "shocking" it loose with a quick smack on the 19mm wrench using a steel hammer or a dead blow hammer. That is the best way if you don't have a air impact wrench. - Jeff

What a cool site -- Thanks ZmeFly! I'm on there. - Jeff

ZmeFly - That Avatar is very cool! -Jeff

Look at the rod caps and the rods. There is a number stamped on each one per which cylinder it belongs in. #1 is at the front of the car. If you remove the pistons from the rods and plan to put them back on be sure they go back on the same way and on the same rod. - Jeff

"just hook a battery up to it and crank that som bitch with the starter. it will work and you will be able to get your compression readings. " The starter mounts to the trans bell housing, The engine is mounted to a engine stand w/ the trans bolts. At least that's the way I read the above posts. - Jeff

I went through my whole engine 2 months ago. This was the easy part. If you 'reset' your crank to TDC - do not move it. You need to rotate the cam untill the #1 dowel hole lines up,Both valves on the #1 cylinder must be closed. This will put the top 'Bright Link' at about 3 o'clock. Your bottom 'Bright Link' will also be at 3 o'clock on the crank gear. - Jeff

I put Fuel Injection from a '78Z on my L24 block. That makes a very fast revving 2.4L engine. - Jeff