JEFF

Put the #1 pistion at TDC and remove the distributor - the drive tab should be at about a 5 deg. angle,(up to your right), to the mounting bolt holes.If not then remove and replace the oil pump as nessasarry to get it there. Once you have that on and the distributor replaced - line up the static timing marks on the distributor base plate. The engine should start in this position. - Jeff

OK- here we go from memory. With the front engine cover/cam gear/chain all removed. turn the crank manualy untill the #1 piston is at tdc of compression stroke - you will know that it IS the comp. stroke if the timing marks on the crank pully are at about 10 - 11 o'clock position, and the timing "dot" on the crank gear is on the drivers side. Turn the cam manualy untill both valves have just closed on the #1 cyl. then put the cam gear on - lining the dowel with dowel hole #1. look thru the cast hole in the gear to align the notch in the gear hub with the 'dash' mark on the cam keeper - rotate the cam untill they align perfictly. both valves of #1 should have remained closed the whole time - as only a short distance of rotation was req'd. Remove the cam gear. Install the chain on the crank gear - align the bright link with the 'dot' on the gear. NOTE: there are 2 bright links (22 links apart on the short side) they both need to be on the drivers side of cam/crank. Reinstall the cam gear with the chain and chain tentioner in place. the bright link on the cam end of the chain should be aligned with position 1 on the cam gear. Install the front cover carefully - do not damage any gaskets. Check / Referance your manual for clarification along the way. - Jeff

another 4-5 years i may leave the Doc's office with the same types of smiles. - Jeff

2manyz Are you about 40 years old?? - Jeff

tanny - You got it right - but i think it penitrates better than KY ...OH i mean WD40. - Jeff

Dip the whole car in the liquid wrench!!! HaHaHa! - Jeff

Wipe the grease off and spray it with liquid wrench. Work the door through its stroke a couple dozen times - spray it again - work it some more. If your arm did not fall off yet spray it one more time and go to bed - work the hinge some more tomarrow. If that does not loosen the tightness then replace the hinges. - Jeff

The problem was stuck rings!! A fresh hone - New rings. Compression is 182 - 185 psi across all 6!! Fired up on first stroke! I'm a happy man. Thanks for the help and suggestions guys!:classic:

You can put whatever dist. you want in whatever block you want from '70 - '78 - i'm not sure about any of them after '78. - Jeff

Try spraying the whole hinge area with liquid wrench - if that helps - then spray it with white lithium grease 1 week after the liquid wrench. - Jeff

Beandip - exelent thoughts!! - Jeff

The little chain steering wheels are so you can drive handcuffed! The low riders are so you can cruse and pick beans at the same time!! - Jeff

Adding new over the old is fine in my opinion - Jeff

Yah - What he said ! My blinker flasher unit piece thingy ma'dodad is on the drivers side near the steering colum. ('72 240Z) It is a round can, Maybe a little larger than my thumb. (I think my thumb is average) and about as long..... - Jeff

That's nice,That's nice. Can I pull up to the front door of the church in the morning? - Jeff

Maybe that's "Pimple-Mobile" !! - Jeff

You could check in Hemming's Motor News for a Bone Yard in the southwest. H.M.N is all ads for parts and cars. I have had great parts come to Michigan from there. - Jeff

There is an alumunim flywheel (10 lbs.) for sale in Victoria British. It is hardened 6061 T6 alum. with an steel insert for the friction surface. Sit down please......... $499.95 - Jeff

I was wrong once ........... once! satin-finished stainless steel is the factory part in my '72 240Z. - Jeff

When it comes time to check out the carbs. Be sure you drain the 6 month old gas out of everything and put in fresh stuff. Try running it without the air filters on - maybe for a mile or two. If no change or little change occures then take the domes off the tops of the carbs, lift out the pistons and spray carb cleaner into the jet bung with the carb cleaner 'straw' attached.(be sure that you do not bend or damage in any way, the needles attached to the bottom of the pistons. Replace the domes(sameway that they came out), top off the damper oil and run it again with out the filters unless you cleaned/replaced them. If this trial does not fix the rough idle and power loss then your carbs are in need of a rebuilding. My thought is to have them profesionaly reworked if it comes down to needing it. - Jeff

Usually the contact points inside the combination switch get stuck with the age and all. if you can ( i did it ) take it apart without breaking it you can clean it inside and put it back in your car. Mine had the same symtoms as yours - I fixed it by ceaning the contacts inside and making them move easy again. Becareful not to drop the springs that hold the contacts in place. - Jeff

-- RUST PROOFING THE FAST WAY-- - - Jeff - pisses the wife off every time you do it doesn't it brett.

If you want to keep your speedometer reading correctly .... the larger the wheel the lower the profile on the tire,trying to keep the total diameter the same as the stock combination. This works up to a point .... then you need to replace the speedo gear in the transmition ( thats easy to do ). The larger tire over all diameter the smoother the ride over bumps/pot holes. Example: Roll a penny (small dia. tire) down the road into a pot hole about the size of your fist (sat 1/2" deep) The penny falls in the hole (hard clunk on small tire) Now roll a large frizbee over the same hole ... see what i mean? Remember: the lower the profile on your tire the less cusion there is for the bumps.(harder on suspention parts). But the trade off is that you get less sidewall flex --- improving your handling. - Hope that helps. - Jeff

If you want to change the fan belt - running is fine. But not the lash pads or cam unless you wear safty glasses with your apron! - Jeff

My manual shows the compression should be between 171 and 185 PSI for a stock 240Z in 1972. On thruogh 1978 the compression ranged from 165 PSI to 187 PSI. I just honed and reringed my 240Z, it is bored .030 over with a 1978 N47 head - compression after assembly = 165 PSI then after 30 minutes of running = 182 - 185 PSI. I am very happy with these numbers. - Jeff