JEFF

Dealer Option is correct. When the Z cars hit the car lots here in the states the dealers could not keep them in stock!! SO..... Lets make a few extra bucks on these cars...... replace the stock steel wheels with the mags and jack up the price !!! That is the true story. Exelent rims by the way. - Jeff

Clean and undercoat well - the whole area. Jeff

2Manyz --- Correct - I've welded on them before ( 6061 rod ) - Jeff

I aint no dummy - I went to high school for 7 years!! or was it school high for 7 years?? - Jeff

2ManyZs - My N47 head does have the place for the mechanical fuel pump - its just not cut out in the middle for the pump arm to go through. The mounting bolt holes are there & taped. - Jeff

2ManyZs - I have a N47 head from a '78 280 - no michanical fuel pump access is machined in it. - Jeff

Zedrally- thanks - i'll try anything at this point - i'll pm you with what i find out. - Jeff

Zedrally - I do not understand your reply - - Jeff

The pictures that you posted are not of a 280 engine - unless someone machined the head out and installed a mechanical fuel pump. - Jeff

billcapp - It shows the timing to be set the same on both the cars - I'm sure that the distributor is installed in the same position that it came out of the 280z.....BUT i've gotten things backwards before so it is a good thing to recheck - Thank you for bringing that up. - Jeff

Zedrally- Wouldn't the vaccuum advance hit the intake if i rotate the distributor 180? Can i unscrew the mounting plate and rotate the internal parts 180? The distriburor body is larger on the 280 part so i couldn't mount the guts in the 240 distributor body. Thanks - - Jeff

I recently installed a 1978 (n47) head, fuel injection & electronic ignition on my 240z block (with flat top pistons). Both the engines ran good before the transplant. I can't get the new 'hybred' to fire. Shouldn't the distributor on the 280 be at a the same installation position as the 240 engine?? I am sure the crank/cam timing is correct - set it by the(240z manual) book. I have the injectors working fine - I have excelent spark with new plugs & wires. Doesn't that point the finger at the spark timing - I set that by the book (240z manual) also. Any ideas would be helpful. Thanks guys - Jeff

Lift the front end and spin the wheel. Check the valve lash. Chech the rivits on the brake pads. Check the rotar face for run-out with a dial indicator. I hope you find it before you pull all your hair out! My 2 cents. - Jeff

Smack it hard with a deadblow hammer near the block on the passenger side, ( do not hit the timing chain chamber). If you use a cherry picker ---- "tap" with the deadblow hammer on the valve cover gasket surface(straight down) when the cherry picker has some pressure applied. These ways have both been successful for me without damaging anything. - Jeff

I am in the process of installing fuel injection on my 240z. I took the cylinder head and intake (w/ all the wires) off of a running 280z and transplanted it onto my 240 block. When I am done I will have one high revving 2.4L engine w/ the starting and reliability of the fuel injection. I am still in the process of hooking up the wiring harness. I hope to have it running by the end of the month. Any questions that you may have in doing your car i may be able to answer. ( I've been through the hole thing ). - Jeff

You could/should use a lead additive if you do noy have hardened valves & valve seats. Otherwise have hardened valves & seats installed. - Jeff

I just put a L28 head on a L24 block - i used the L24 chain & gears. It did'nt seem that there was any differance. I would use what you have. If there is a little differance in length the chain tensioner will adjust for it. -Jeff

Walter Moore - I did find the pressure in my manual today. The pressure should be @ 30 psi at idle - 37 psi at any rpm over idle. Thanks for your reply - - Jeff

Most brands will work fine. - Jeff

I installed a '78 280z fuel injection system on my '72 240. the fuel flow is strong - but seems to be returning to the tank in high volume due to the sound of it re-entering the tank. The engine starts for a moment then dies. I think it is starting for that moment on the cold start injector- but if the fuel pressure regulator is not holding pressure wouldn't it be a reason it would die? Question is: What should the fuel pressure be in the fuel rail? And where is a good place to install a fuel pressure port to check the pressure? Any thoughts would be appreciated. - Jeff

Old rad. caps will get weak - not holding 12-14 psi. That will cause the cap to allow it to "overflow" early. Try the new cap 1st. That should be changed every 3-4 years antway. - Jeff

I just went through it .... on my header though. The thread size for the EGR is metric ( 22x1.5 ) My header had another threaded bung it is also metric ( 20x1.5 ) I hope i helped. -Jeff

Lets see...... At $10.00 each ...... $150.00 ...... aha!!! 2 new tires!! - Jeff

I feel that Alan Pugh has it right! I have taken apart 3 starters to fix this very thing. Clean/smooth out the contact surface and reassemble. Worked all three times for me. - Jeff

2ManyZs - How many issues do you own? -Jeff