JEFF

clutchdust - Those notches you mentioned ..... belong on the cam side not the bolt side. The notch corisponding with the dowel used will line up with the mark on the cam retaining plate. When the cam to crank timing is correct 3 items will be lined up. 1) The 'bright' link on the chain will be in line with the 'one' dot on the cam sprocket. 2) The other 'bright' link on the chain will be in line with the dot on the crank sprocket. 3) The notch on the cam sprocket will be lined up with the mark on the cam retaining plate. To see the notch on the cam sprocket you need to look through one of the four elongated holes then you can line it up with the mark on the cam retainer plate. The mark on the plate is at about 11:00 o'clock - the bright link will be lined up at somewhere between 2 & 3 o'clock for the cam - at 3 o'clock for the crank. The engine reassembly section of my manual explained the proceedure very clearly. - Jeff

1) Be sure you haven't pulled the cam forward in the bearings. It can be moved forward and backward alittle. Look down from above and see if you can see any shinny areas. Move the cam with a push or pull by hand to cover any shinny areas. This is probably not the problem but look anyway. 2) when looking at the cam sprocket face that faces forward (toward the radiator) the 3 dowel holes are marked 1 , 2 & 3. You should be located on the one marked 1. If you can read the #'s from in front of the engine then it's on right. 3) Check to see if the valve cover is hitting the cam-oiler tube , not allowing it to sit all the way down. - Newer valve covers do not fit on heads with the external oiler rail. Hope I helped. - Jeff

sawilliams - is a "single point timing marker" the timing marker that is bolted to the front engine cover? If that is what you need then I have one for you. If it is a single point distributor that you need I have one of those also. - Jeff

JMEAD - sjcurtis has good advice in his post- ("I think your pop and associated shut down could be a very lean mixture and faulty air flow meter operation. You may have to do some work on the airflow meter to increase the fuel to air ratio allowing a better burn rate. let us know what you find"-sjcurtis) If airflow and/or fuel mixture are in fact contributing to the "pop", then it could have started to effect the valves.(hope not). You can "read" the burn on the spark plugs. If they are really light tan to chalky white - the fuel/air ratio is way to lean. The plugs should be a light chocolate brown, not sooty, not oily,and certainly not white. - Jeff

A blown head gasket between a cylinder and the water jacket will put HOT exhaust in to the cooling system. When that happens the thermostat gets 'steamed'. It will make the temp. guage skyrocket. Test the coolant temp. in the radiator with a cooking thermometer. If you did put 'stop leak' in the radiator then I suggest replacing the thermostat anyway. Why is there pressure in the overflow bottle??? - Jeff

Start with a compression check. If all the compression readings are within 10 psi of each other then OK. If not then I would check the valve clearances between the cam and the rocker arms, it may be tight on the lower compression cylinders. It may be that the intake valves are not seating fully, thus the 'pop' and able to feel it in the pedal,(the 'pop' causes the throttle plate to jerk). If the valve clearances are correct, have a 'leak-down' test done on all 6 cylinders to check for burnt valves. You could narrow it down to a cylinder by driving with one plugwire off. alternate untill the 'pop' goes away, That's the one! The jumpy tach ??? check the ground wire that grounds the intake manifold to the drivers fender well. That ground is part of the whole bundle of wires that run the fuel injection system. A loose ground can do VERY funny/irritating things. Replace the cap & rotor. Clean carfully inside the distributor. besure the magnet on the pickup is CLEAN. Besure that all wires are tight. Check all the ground wires that you can find. Besure that all wire connections are CLEAN. Hope this helps. Good luck! - Jeff

My guess is that the FLOOR PAN was replaced/repaired, judging by the drilled out spot welds on the rail. OR new rails have those holes in them. As suggested above, sandblasting is a good way to remove the rust and then be able to see exactly what is there(or not there). - Jeff

I got mine at MSA, with the set that I bought. - Jeff

What would you tow with a 240Z??? A motorcycle trailer? - Jeff

I see there is 4 @ 25% - the poll is not over is it? -Jeff

SOLD ! - First come first served. Thanks to all of you that had intrest in the carbs - I'm sorry that I didn't have 4 sets to sell. - Jeff

I don't know where or how much -- BUT I LIKE THEM !! - Jeff

I made a mistake --- The intake manifold IS a E46. I went and looked today. So the carbs. match the manifold ? - Jeff

My car was built 10/71. The intake manifold is an E88. This set up was on the car when I bought it 12 years ago. Beyond that I do not know the history. Thanks for the info Royce. - Jeff

And one more........ My '72 240Z was running good with these carbs. I took them off to install Fuel Injection from a '78 280Z. First come first served! Thanks for looking ---- - Jeff

OOOPS! Pic 2 ..........

Pic 2

1972 SU 4 Screw Round tops - All that you see in the Pics. $80.00 plus the shipping Jeff Pic 1

A very short thought. - Jeff

Rubbing compound? Just a thought. - Jeff

Post many detailed pictures of it -- you are a long drive from the Detroit metro area. - Jeff

How much for the whole car? - Jeff

New items included "cylinder HEADS" How many does a L6 have anyway? - Jeff

Exelent thought Daniel. - Jeff

Try squirting gas in the throat of the carbs to see if it will fire. If it fires - replace the fuel pump. - Jeff