Earthcruiser

Don, I have the same issue with my Z. It is a 72 w/ a L28/Auto. My power goes away on a hard right turn and takes a little while to come back after I get it back to the garage. The other day it took me 30 minutes to get up the driveway. The one thing we both have in common is the MSD coil. I found out that yesterday that it is better for the coil to sit upright. Mine is currently sitting on its side. It may have an issue. I'm going to replace mine and rotate it upright to see if it make a difference. I am currently running the electronic 280ZX dizzy. Please let me know if you find a cure. Thanx, Rod

So this Saturday @ 9 AM will be the first meet. Please bring your datsun and come meet others. Hope to see you there.

If there is anyone in the Colorado Springs Area interested in forming a Datsun Club, we will initially meet the third Saturday of each month at 9AM. Location is currently the "Promendade Shops at Briargate" near I25 and Brairgate. All Datsuns are welcome. There are a lot of Zs, tens, twenties, and roadsters in the area. Please come out and see what is about. I will be at the TriLakes Car Show in Monument Colorado if you would like to talk about initial setup. Interested??? Thoughts???? Hope to see you there. Rod

If you remove them, your car will be called everything from a mazda to a fiero. Before I did the body on mine, I had a Z28 guy tell his ten year old son that it was a RX7. That is what started by refresh of the body and the application of all badges. My vote goes to leave them in place. But it should be a personal decision. Good Luck~

PM Sent

Since Colorado Z's are few and far between, it would be cool to have a few show up for the 2012 Monument Car Show. The town closes down the downtown streets for the show. Always a great show put on by the Trilakes Cruisers. Here is the website: http://www.tlcruisers.org/frames.html Please bring your Z out and let show them off.

You will become freakish with this one. I never had the feeling until I drove mine to work to show it off a little the first time. Seeing other drivers so close will scare you. Good Luck you have found a true gem~

Awesome find. This is the one everyone looks for. I purchased mine from the original owner also, however it was nowhere near this good of condition. Good luck and enjoy the ride~

Zeke when purchased in Aug 2008

Changed the fuel filter and Cleaned the SU Carbs. Took for a short run... Ran great~

Very Nice. BTW mine is #70797. I still have a little work left to do though. Great shots...

Very nice work. It is great to see other Z's being restored. There are too many rusting away. Good luck with the project, keep the pics coming.

Very nice paint. It is a great feeling the first time you drive down the road after you are finished. Awesome job.... Good luck

Here is my contribution. Still fine tuning Zeke.

Well the tank is back in, I had it boiled and resealed, then I primed and undercoated the entire exterior of the tank. Then replaced all hoses, filter, groments, sending unit and gasket, blew out the metal lines with air compressor. Took a minute to presurize the lines, the Zeke came back to life and runs the best since I have had it.

I am in the process of restoring my fuel tank. I tried cleaning it but there was some debis in it after all the years the car has been on the road. So I removed it two weeks ago, boiled it, resealed, primed, undercoated, ordered a new sending unit and am waiting on the hoses to arrive so I can reinstall. Its also a good time to replace aging gromets and other aging rubber. I figure I only want to do this once. The overall process should take about a month due to waiting on parts to arrive.

So far I have found that the Red/Blue wire is a Red/Black Wire that run to a relay and the Black wire also runs to the relay. So now I have: The Ignition Module Negative to the Negative Coil Connect the Green White Wire and the Black White Wire that ran to the Ballast The Blue Wire to the Positive Coil The Ignition Module Positve to the Positive Coil The Black/White Wite to the Positive Coil Any thoughts?

I have search the forums and have found a couple websites that will get the conversion half way. My problem is that I am running an Automatic trans and am trying to convert to a 12-80 ignition module. This is how I have the wires connect so far after looking at the websites and the shop manual. The Red/Blue wire to Negative Coil The Ignition Module Negative to the Negative Coil Connect the Green White Wire and the Black White Wire that ran to the Ballast The Blue Wire to the Positive Coil The Ignition Module Positve to the Positive Coil The Black/White Wite to the Positive Coil That leaves me with a unconnected solid black wire. Where does it go? Are there any errors in my process above. Please Assist. Thank you.