grantf

I was almost thinking of installing doors on the front seeing as the damage has been done. I could store a spare quart of oil there (or weed, it's legal in my state now! but no smoking in my car!).

or a major fuel leak.

Thinking...... could be many things, bad cold start injector, bad FPR, bad temp sensor. sounds like to much fuel is being dumped. Is there any black smoke when it does run?

I left mine unglued for a summer. Not to hot here in seattle. It warped, I would glue it down (full cover 77 280z).

After work tomorrow I will compare youre setup with mine. I am sure that spring does not belong there, at least it is not stock. I am not an expert on valve adjustment. Check some of the other writeups. I have tried adjusting the valves hot, as it should be done but I am not fast enough so what I have done is adjust them cold then I warm the engine and check for the hot specs. Adjusting the valves is not hard, it can actually be sort of fun if you are in the mood. eachl lobe should point up when you check clearance. use a remote starter to make life easer. Also it will be a good time to visualy inspect the valve train. Also do not be alarmed if the rockers seem to be loose when there respective lobe is up, this is normal.

I have a 77 also. I am unsure what a big throat throttle body is, so I am just comparing youre picture to my car. Could you upload a whole engine bay photo? If you remove the spring (the one in the third photo) will youre throttle return? It is starting to look like this may be one culprit.

First thing I notice from the pictures is the throttle return spring is totally incorrect, both in its location and style.

I would suggest that you make sure all of the EFI systems are working properly before tricking the ECU. Only after you are sure would you consider inriching the mixture with added resistance.

Hmmm, I am getting rusty on this since I have worked out most of the bugs on my 77. A leak at the intake manifold would cause a vacuum leak, this would lead to a lean condition, but youre vacuum reading does not seem that bad. Fuel pressure drop after turning off the car would seem normal after sometime but not immediate. Have you adjusted the idle speed yet? Has youre new AFM been adjusted to run rich? TPS adusted properly?

I started a new thread with pics a while back: http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/thread47484.html

I know this sounds obvious: Hve you checked the CSI for function yet?

My car is a 77 so the electronics are a little different, but similar. My guess is a loose connection to the ignition control module or a failing ignition control module. This is just a guess due to the fact that I had similar symptoms. In my case it was simply the ground wire not having a contact. Due you have a meter and the FSM for youre year?

yup just pop the rod out of the plastic clip. I hate replacing those handles, My hands do not fit in the tight space easily. Usually I end up loosing a little blood.

Wow! I have the same situation! I just removed the brake bulb because it bugged me, but my regulation system is the same as yours. We should compare notes.

I second the compression test. I used this guide: http://atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/compressiontest/index.html Also, are you loosing coolant? Replacing the head gasket is not a simple task, but not rocket science. be prepared to also replace youre intake/exhaust manifold gasket, probably new manifold studs and new head bolts. You will disconnecting all of the EFI electrical connections so lable them, be systimaticle and take youre time using penetrating oil on all bolts and nuts.