grantf

what about the exhaust fumes! could you plug the USB into the licence plate?

I would agree with 72 OJ in that you're car is a canidate for fixing up. Think twice about the bumpers, Your's look to be in really good shape. Or put 240 bumpers on and sell the ones you have, those bumper ends alone are worth money to some people.

I got my 77 5 speed for $300. Now I would not go that low. Mine was not running but it had about the same interior and body condition. It's hard to say, considering how much money someone else would want to put into it, I would say 2800 is more then reasonable.

thanks but the bolt is broken flush to the head. thinking that any drilling I may use a left hand bit. I do not think it is seazed.

:tapemouth

Sounds like fuel. Have you checked the pressure. could be clogged lines or poor conections to pump. My guess is the lines. but there are way more possibilities.

So new bolts are on order. Thanks for the part number and the offer (I will keep my spares for the future). Now I am thinking about the extraction, before I remove the cover I am thinking of sending a drill bit down the cover hole to hopefully make a center point and go from there. After removing the valve cover I will lube it well using kroil, bp blaster, ect. then try one technique that has worked in the past to "peen" it counter clockwise. if that does not work I am thinking of welding a nut to the remaining stud. Any thoughts? I don't like easy-outs. Drilling and tapping I can do using a bottoming tap, but that and helicoil are my last resort.

At the least remove before painting.

welcome another one from the NW. I agree find a good used Z engine. If there are no EFI coponents left in the car carbs would be the way to go.

at the least remove before painting. If you like them you can put new ones back on. I left mine off.

everyone like pictures of Zs

From the above photos I am wondering if it is the same paint that was used on the Z's tail light finisher.

Thanks for the part number and the web link. I was looking at the xenon site's part fiche wich is dificult to read. there are two different part numbers listed, the first I posted and the second I read as 01121-00001 but the last 0 must be a 6! thanks.

Hmm, I am tempted. I only need one bolt, but I was thinking of putting all new ones in. I most likely snapped off that one because I have a tendency to rank on bolts to hard, or there might have been gunk in the head. For example when I replaced the manifold gasket I used a torque wrench and tightened them properly but they did not seem tight enough to me, I was tempted to snug them down more (but I did not). Anyhow I will think about you're offer. But you may want to keep them in case you f-up like I did.

I have a snapped off valve cover bolt. Before removing the valve cover and extracting it I would like a new set. So I am looking for the part number, I would like OEM bolts. After some online searching I came up with 13274-E3000, is this correct? I would like to know before ordering from courtesyparts.

oil pressure so for could be normal, you're volts look low. This is strange. try looking for loose corroded grounds. at the least near you're ignition control module. look for bad conections at you're fusible links including the ones that feed you're EFI system (from battery through firewall). But the most notable is you're volts look way low.

"Never explain yourself. Your friends don't need it and your enemies won't believe it." - Unknown I am of the mindset that the engineers that designed you're engine did so to maximize horsepower and reliability to start with. Modifying there design will only be a trade off of some sort. So IMHO build it to factory spec.

I am not really an expert on this one, but I can tell you what I did: I simply installed it without glue using the three plastic rivets, then glued only the upper portion using loctite W/S adhesive as if it were contact cement. then I trimmed the "square" section down to match the area were the SS trim meet the door body. I can post a finished pic one I replace batteries in my camera.

:tapemouth

Hmm, you must not have you're own set up. Anyhow since you are hiring out it, keep in mind this is one of the easer jobs to do, I would say about an hour for a good welder to close up the holes and smooth out. (if were I, I would use weld through primer only because welds are more prone to corrosion).

I would vote for the brown one. It runs! that means alot. you can get more info from a running car than one that does not.

I never get the sports wedgie playing trivial pursuit.

One thing I have noticed: Last summer I changed out my intake/exhaust manifold. Being lazy I never got around to putting the heat shield back on. Since then, my hot start has gotten worse. Time to put it back on. Bad me, I should know better. Wondering if I should insulate it and were I can find insulation locally.

Agreed, I had a small swimming pool on the passenger side till I found and installed the seal. I would not expect it to make that big of a difference but it did. Even here in Seattle. I think I got mine from MSA.

Man that is sad.:cry:It looks like the theatre I work at: