grantf

http://youtu.be/rLDgQg6bq7o

It's just not possible to diagnose you're problems with the information you have provided. The volt meter/parking/tail light description has nothing to do with engine backfire. You are looking at at least two issues (probably more). I second Zed Head, Just sell it as is and let the potential buyer know the issues, if most of the car is sound the buyer may most likely be able to solve the problems them self.

In the past I have routed around the bad connector pins. Now I am in favor of repairing the plugs. It is possible. Search for molex connector pins.

Looks very pretty! but it looks like something/things are missing ?????

is there a problem with the d on you're keyboard?

Can we go back to the "Atomic age"? Please?

Brake shims installed????

Door handels, Are they the same as a Z? there are four of them.

wiper motor

If you car is a 280z with all of the FI components I would say keep the EFI. When it is functioning correctly it is very reliable, But since you hate EFI.... well it is you're car. Really if you break it down the electrical part of the EFI system becomes very simple ( I had a harder time getting my SU's to work right on my old 260, but they were flat tops and I was a 20 something kid back then :stupid:).

Finished repairing the combination switches. The PO had clipped off all but three wires on the right side Molex connector :tapemouth. I picked up some new male pins and a Molex cripper and finished the repair. Now everything works (and wire colors are correct for the future) . A lot of work to fix what took seconds for someone else to screw up. Why do people hack the wiring on there cars so much? :mad::mad:

Zsaint, sounds like you are running lean unless you give it full throttle whereas the TPS then enrichens the mixture. You need to do a full EFI diagnosis starting with fuel pressure (you have started to do that) and a vacuum system inspection, then electrical conections. Check the EFI bible and the FSM.

Well there you go. One problem area in the EFI system can mask another. Glad you got it worked out.

Let me go outside and look..... Green is thermotime/cold start. Black is Water temp sensor. Confirmed on my car, FSM and color wiring diagram.

do you have the temp sensor and the thermotime sensor connectors switched? easy mistake to make.

That's just frikin awsome! I think a great bookend to this thread.

Now that's funny. Perhaps the thread should be moved to funneybone.

Just leave out the "R". Not Everyone in the US sounds like a gun toot'n hillbilly. Well maybe "All you Aussies an new Zebraslanders dowen thar ma not think'en so much, I meen arn not ya all the same be'n down thar an all yuck yuck". Thanks for the stereotype

Almost sounds like an east coast vs west coast thing or north, south. When I watch "The New Yankee Workshop" Norm say "draw" instead of drawer. My father's best friend from Austrialia says "Maak" instead of Mark. Just a different accent. And we do not say "NEESARN"! I say "KNEE-SON". And not all North Americans say "GIT R DON" (I HATE THAT). I say "MAHZDA" not "MARZDA" or MAWZDA". I pronounce Datsun as "DOT-SUN"

Hey I just received this in the mail: http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=330606331460 The price was right and it looks brand new. It looks like the seller has more for sale. Free shipping and it looks brand new. I am thinking of buying another for a spare. I have not put it in my car yet but I am pretty sure it will plug in no problem. Just thought I would share.

But it's running

Good luck on the rust. It can be fixed, If you can weld. most of the lower half you can get patch panels for.

Click N Clack answered you question three weeks ago. Really! test the water temp sensor (they also suggested "burping the coolant"). My 77 has the same condition: runs great cold till I park for a short time, start it up and it hesitates for about a minute of driving then everything is fine. time to look at the coolent I think.

get er don :sick: "I don need no sterin"

really cool.