grantf

I do not think it is political at all. Ethanol mixes are bad for older cars and at least some newer motorcycles (my girlfriends BMW for example). And it is not really environmentally friendly as it is not carbon friendly to produce, besides making some engines run less efficiently.

I am not far south of you. How many datsuns would you like me to take from you're family? I could use another z.

I second what Zed Head said (that rhymes!) about the two sensors, It is an easy mistake to make and one that could very likely occur after putting the intake manifold back on and reconnecting everything, I know, I just whent through this about 3 months ago. Again test before just buying a new AFM, it may just need to be adjusted or cleaned. Also does this shop that specializes in Nissans also specialize in "old Nissans"? Try this: take the hose that leads from the air cleaner to the AFM off and hold the flap shut if this results in the same condition as removing the AFM to thottle body hose being disconected (meening it "runs just fine") than that would indicate a very rich running engine and somthing else is amiss. It just sounds like the AFM is not the problem.

another option is to take the ignition out and bring it to a locksmith, that would save a little $$$. they are not that dificult to remove, just take you're time and be sure to store all of the hardware in a safe place as to not loose any little screws.

We don't see many 2+2's here, post some pics. Though I prefer the 2 seater that's a nice looking Z for the price. Nice color also.

which hose? the one from the air cleaner or the one between the AFM and the throttle body. I am thinking if You're engine runs good with the hose removed it may not be you're AFM, and I doubt that a bad one would cause the gasket to blow. does the flap inside move smoothly? I would do more testing before searching for a very expensive part.

You meen the stud on the right? yes PB Blaster or Kano Kroil and let it soak for about an hour. or try heat.

I figured that's what you meant. Just needed to be sure from what you wrote. Seems rewiredz may be on the right track.

When you say you purchased a new part, what part? the boot? the rod? Or the whole slave cylinder?

Happy Festavezzzz! For the rest of ezzzz!

I don't think you can tell much from a visual inspection of the injectors. What I would suggest is to look for other possible causes of a rich running engine. Bad temp sensor, an AFM that has been tampered with or the TPS out of wack. These were the main problems my car had and I got the mpg from 10 to near 20. If you think the cold start "injector" is to blame it could be or a bad thermotime sensor. try testing all of these things. hope this helps.

Happy Winter Solstice

Let the Feats of Strength begin!

Ha! good job. Was it one near the fuel shut off switch (close to the front of the afm)?

Pick ups are the worst for icey roads. No rear traction and to heavy for stopping. When I lived up north they were allways the first ditched come first snowfall.

I drove my 260 back in Anchorage were I grew up daily in winter and summer (there is a long winter there). If you keep it clean you will be alright as far as rust is concerned. For tires I used studded tires and the car handled great. But according to my family that still lives there, there is a newer tire out there that has super pliable rubber that makes them handle as good or better than studs, but you MUST remove them if it gets warm out as they will not last long. try googling johnsons tire service for Anchorage or Alaska tire service and a brand will most likely be on its web site. I think it's Blizzak from bridgestone.

I know what you mean, my engine sounded and ran TOTALLY different after I put a new gasket in. May sound stupid but double check the conection?? I had the same promblem and it was a dirty contact at the temp sender.

I envy you. But though it's colder here we have better scuba diving. So there!

I am not sure what electrical issues you have, I am sure you know to look through systematically. The cover should be held on with a silicone sealant. If it looks sloppy than that would be an indication that it has been tampered with in the past.... in this photo on the left you can see a shiny arm that contacts a flexible metal strip. the arm pushes the metal tab away from a contact a little lower shutting off the fuel when the engine is no longer running (no air flow though the meter).

You have a 77? If so have you peeked at under the AFM cover? there is a fuel kill switch in it. Probably not you're issue but worth a look see. Have you looked up the Atlantic z car web site and clicked on the Fuel injection section? It helped me out quite a bit solving my fuel consumption issue. If you got in an accedent there would be a consequence to you're solution, but I am sure you are aware of that risk.

Nice car but........ It's a ZX. Its just not the same. know what I meen?

Ya, over $6,000 is smoking rope. I wonder if it will sell. My car is in "ok" shape. If I had to get rid of it I would consider $3,000.

Not sure about eminem or the grateful dead, but ther than that you have empeceble taste in music so build the car around a decient 8 track player. actually you will at least need a casett player for Slayer!

Really for working on you're car you should use mig (correct me if I am wrong MIG=Metal Inert Gas) So when we say use gas we meen use Mig gas for shielding with a wire feed unit, Not use an Oxy Acetylene torch, They are great for cutting and you can weld with them but for sheet metal you will most likely warp the steel to much. I have welded pieces of steel together with an O/C torch in the past and it was not nearly as easy as a wire feed.

Reminds me of my long lost 260. It was the same orange and I miss it.