grantf

Why do the fall photos always look so good?

I am with x-1. A wallet with cash I would try to find the owner. But I would not go to the police with it. Sorry to say this but I trust the Seattle police about as far as I can thow a feather into the wind.

Just keep searching. Not to long ago my car was rear ended and the body shop got a replacement for the one shown above, cost 400 bucks and it was warped. I asked for my old one back. Every 2 months or so I scourer the wrecking yards with my fiance and every now and then a surprise awaits, it's sort of fun for strange people like me.

Yes show pics.

I have had the same trouble with my car, a 77, but I lucked out at the wrecking yard one day But both of the front and rear end sets needed some work. I did some minor repairs using rubber bumper glue fine sand paper, mothers back to black and a lot of patience. you can not tell now that they have been repaired. how bad are youres could you show pictures?

Nice car, that rear hatch rust.. You can get a replacement panel, there is more then just surface rust. it requires drilling out the original spot welds and plug welding the new piece in.... Also the haynes manual is incomplete at best especially if you have fuel injection, go with the factory service manual ( xenons30.com I think ).

hmm Looks like a nice car, and the price is very resonable. Ill bet he has no trouble selling it.

in order of ease to fix I would say haft shaft u joints, drive shaft u joints (depending on the year), diff mount (well this actually is really easy tied for second if you use the new mount and dump the strap) then mustache bushings ( I have not done this yet on my car because it looks like a pain in the a$$).

Wow! the AFM was not hooked up? that would definitely cause your car to not run. most everything involving the fuel delivery is based on readings from the afm. even a split in the afm to TB boot will cause the car to run poorly. Do you have all of the systems put back in order? all vacuum lines electrical conections to sensors ect.?

have you checked all of the conections to the ignition control module I am talking about the module up above the fuse panel on the passenger side (check the ground connection). Also when you jumped the starter was the key in the run position (I know it's a dumb question but sometimes I overlook the stupidest things).

Cool keep us posted on how it's coming along. The EFI system seems confusing at first but as you work out the bugs all the mystery peices will fall into place.

can you show pics of the current setup. This sounds like it could be really simple. have you tried a jumper wire from the battery to the starter yet? ( put it in neutral first!). It could be a simple loose conection or dirty contact it happens often that you will get a bad contact after taking things apart, try cleaning all of them.

listen to Fastwoman. But hold off on buying injectors till you have sorted out all of the systems. I was close to replacing mine before I found numerous faults elsewhere. At first the EFI system seems complicated but when you go through it systematically it will become clear how everything works. Here are some things I will throw into the bucket (but I do not wish to throw you off). what condition is the dizzy in? there must be a reason for different plug readings. replace and examine all vacuum lines, it is cheap and can familiarize you with the system a little. electrical conections are VERY important in an EFI system, Check and clean them before testing there are some components that have failed on my car that were culprits that are cheap or even free to repair and easy to test (water temp sensor and TPS come to mind) Spend some time looking over the EFI bible and the FSM, it helps to understand. And click the ABC check I do it all the time so arses that think they are smarter than me don't stab me for a freaking typo. oh and welcome to the best Z site on the planet.

zKars, You seem to be on the on the other side of the spectrum than TomoHawk. You have only seen the sloped type and Tomohawk has only seen the flat type. Hmmm perhaps different factories shipped to different regions, who knows. Oh well there you go. Thanks again for the pics anyone else?

I am not sure why my car is titled as a 78, It was when I purchased it (for $300.00 ). At first I thought it was a 78 till I was pointed out at the Z meet up that it did not match his. It makes sense also because my alternator was originally externally regulated and has since been converted to an internal regulator (Zs were external till 78). In addition my efi system matches a 77 not a 78. It has solved a lot of mysteries since I started to examine the 77 FSM instead of the 78 :stupid:

siteunseen, Thanks! that is what I needed to see. Maybe tomohawk will understand, you will see that if it was flattened out it would not fit and if the taillight cover was with the car it would need to be cut in order to conform to its profile. My car is registered as a 78 but really it is a 77 the vin ends 362806 if that meens anything. The little hooky thing actually looks like it could come in handy. I looks like I have most of the parts, I just need fasteners and time to put it back together.

I am guessing the water pump has a small leak.

Arrg!!! I think some people are not getting it. Some 280Zs had a sloped up deck most do not, most are flat but raised. My car has the former, a sloped up hatch deck. I am not shure I like it but it is stock, not a mod and not stuck. I would prefer the cargo area from my long lost 260z. perhaps some day I will convert it to the flat raised deck. here are some pics. There has to be others out there with a sloped deck.

No it is not a custum "mod" it is stock. zKars I have the hardboard what I am trying to figure out is what sort of trim there is in lieu of the more comon taillight cover panel. I am sure there are others that have the sloped deck.I will poast pictures later to show what I have.

My 77 has a 5 speed. I believe it is stock. There may be a different clutch But I believe it should just drop right in. I could be wrong.

Hate to say it but I am glad I still have my corola. other than a clutch and some front brake work it has been a life saver when my Z is sick. and it gets really good mpg.

very cool! looks like you have come a long way since "frankencar".

I would think less than 1/8" of bondo. If it were my project "I would remove all bondo from the repair area and assess the damage. Find a suitable replacement piece and cut out only what is damaged than stitch weld the replacement in. I you feel the need to replace the whole panel than you will need to drill out the spot welds. I used a 1/4 inch drill bit and forced the panels apart with a chisel. But it would be preferable to use a spot face tool. I am not a professional welder or body man but if you use care and really take youre time lining up the replacement panels you may not need bondo at all or just a little to smooth out youre welds. It also looks like the rear fenders where they meet the rear panel may have damage. I replaces mine with aftermarket repair panels. They were not easy to work with because the shape was off a little. I had to bend them a little by hand and hammer and dolly them a little for them to line up. So If you can find a good rear end from a junker that's the way to go but it will be hard to find rust free ones. If welding is not an option than spend some time will a hammer and dolly and work it out as much as you can, you may need to shrink the metal ether or both by using a shrinking hammer and a torch to heat than quench the metal. Hope this helps

Does anyone else have a 280z with a sloped hatch deck and if so could you post a few pictures? I could the refeance, Mine seems to be missing parts but I am not sure which. Thanks Grant

Strange someone whent to the trouble of welding in that peice of metal at all. Looks like you need to find a clean rear end from a parts car and replace the whole thing.