grantf

My first Z was an orange 260, I missed it and ended up buying my current 280z. I still miss the 260 :disappoin

Wow! they never let me off the hook.

oops testing wrong connectors between 13 and ground I get .068 engine is probably 120 deg now. But I did notice all resistance readings and temperatures should measure the same for air and water temp sensors so if they differ from one to the other, one or both may be suspect. I cleaned the contacts and will test again tomorrow.

Two more updates with my engine warmed up, I am guessing a little over 130 deg my resistance is 1.85 this seems a bit high. time for a new temp sensor?? also I have gotten my vacuum up to 15 in Hg. by replacing one small hose and the biggest difference seemed to come from tightening the valve cover bolts they were all loose, I did not tighten them much just snug. I would never had guessed this but after seeing what effect taking off the oil filler cap I was surprised. I know 15 is still low but it is an improvement. tomorrow may be yogurt for supper. I am thinking of just replaceing all the vacuum lines and perhaps replacing the valve cover gasket.

yes it looks tampered with. Sorry about the crappy cell phone photo (my camera is at my girlfriends house). You can see that 2 screws have been glued with gobs of silicone.

No I am not sure, but it is very possible.

measuring the temp sensor: I get 2.27 k at the ecu connector it is about 65 f outside my car is a little warm been cooling for about an hour and a half. I will check again before I head out later tonight but I would think that it is at least working and I have a signal. So at this stage I think tracking down vacuum leaks seams like the best thing to do, I feel that adjusting the AFM before doing this would be working backward, meaning that I would be using those adjustments to potentially compensate for inefficiencies elsewhere in the system. Does this make sense?

My fuel pump always runs with the key in the on position. I know it shouldn't but it does. Also I do have an aftermarket fuel pump. I am still looking for vacuum leaks, perhaps It's time for yogurt (I don't really like yogurt).

seems impractical. But at least you are not boring huge holes through out the rest of the interior. Like the PO of my car did :ogre:

Ok, I did a little testing: I let the engine cool after work for a good 2 hours.. fuel pressure : 40 psi (not running) Fuel pressure: 36 psi (running at 800 rmps) I let the engine warm up for about 25 min, normal running temp Fuel pressure: 36 psi (running at 800 rpms) disconnected the vacuum line to FPR: 42 psi applied close to 20 in Hg to get the fuel pressure to drop to about 28 psi. So I do note that vacuum is having an effect on fuel pressure, I am not certain that my fuel gauge is accurate, if it is, fuel pressure seems high. I am not sure this is where I need to look though. I tested the vacuum at the brake booster hook up with the mityvac it read 14 in. Hg this seems low. I will test the vacuum advance with the mityvac and the timing light tomorrow but everything seems to be operating ok, smooth running engine, stable idle ect. I guess I need to test the connections at the ecu using the EFI bible but how would I know or adjust mixture. I am weary of messing with the AFM at this stage. I think I would do that as a last resort.

Now that is Sick!

Ok some kid said my car was sick not long ago, I took it as a compliment. Groovy, cool, bitch'n, tubular, kick arse, awsome, Rad, bad, and now sick. ok I'll go with it, I wonder what is next.

that's funny I had the same thing happen last week. A burt electrcal smell and smoke out the steering colum. I have not noticed anything amiss though. really spooking me.

on my 77 I suported the tranny with a strap up through the tunnel hole tied to a steel pipe, Helped out a little.

Calling it a project is an over statement. Took me two hours with a few very long beer breaks. Could brobably now do it in 20 min. I did presoak all bolts in bp blaster before work. The strap did nothing on my car.

here are my plugs, they look really black, dry execpt some oily fluid around the theads. Am I running rich? Oh and I accidentally broke #4 not sure how that happened. new plugs are gapped and installed.

I orderd mine from technoversions. He shipped it supper fast. I orderd it 10:00 pm and it was shipped at about 10:00 am the next day, it arrived one day after that. On another note I do hear more drivline noise, is this normal, perhaps vibrations transfering through the new mount?

Ok I got a mityvac it cost a little less than a new vacuum advance diaphragm dash pot thingy. I hooked it up and observed the distributor advance operate normally at around 11 in.HG it moved about 5 to 10 deg clockwise. This was with the cap off and the engine not running. Also I calculated my MPG 3 times by filling it up to exactly 10 gallons and noting the mileage before and after, I get between 11 and 12 mpg :ogre: I have not tested the timing with the mityvac yet, but I am thinking that there must be another path to go down to solve the bad mileage. Any suggestions? Oh by the way when I apply vacuum to the dashpot thingy it does not hold a vacuum it returns is this normal? There really is not much in the FSM regarding this.

Ecu flash codes? I think not. Look over the work you have done so far. Check fuel pressure again.

and good riddance: the rt mount is the easiest upgrade so far, 14 mm wrench, socket and a hammer to persuade it a little. Oh and a sharp knife to remove a little from the bump stop. the clunk is gone!

Why? I think the trend is silly. Put one on a Civic it makes it go faster!

where is SLIPPERY ROCK?

Wow I wish they had painted over mine now.

:stupid:Oopps the 240's are way different just checked a 73 FSM. there should be a fusible link there, my bad, please forgive. do you have continuity between the bad wire and the fuse block?

that is not a fusible link. That wire should lead to the fusible link block. The other "big fat wire" should go to the positive side of you're battery.