grantf

Well I will do some experimenting, it should be a simple matter to find out. I will post what I find

I am not thinking of bypassing the vacuum bottle just the two magnet valves. why would vacuum be shut electrically to the heater control?

I started a thread on this subject. Find post AC elimination... I was thinking of bypassing the magnet valves just like you have mentioned. Does all of you're heat controls operate normally now?

Hey!!! I a blond. What do you mean to say? :mad:

What year is you're car?

I have also heard "Nice Mazda". And "no you're car is not a 280z that is a 240z the 280's look way different".

Back in 1989 I drove my 260z to a friends house and one of his sisters saw it a said "Look dad bought me a Porsche for christmas!!". "Sorry that car is not a Porsche and it mine not yours".

When you do find youre Z will it be red with a white roof?

Conedodger is correct. My Toyota was rear ended last summer. The insurance for the driver at fault said my car was totaled after I had a body man give an estimate of 1,500 to repair it. They tried to low ball me over the phone and when I expressed concern with how they came up with a price for my car they got very rude. I stayed calm and explained that "I was the victim not the insurance co.". and all I wanted was to be "made whole again". I did not give in till they gave me a price equal to the repair of the car (eventually 1,488). I was happy in the end but I needed to not give in and stay calm and professionall with them even when they verbally abuse you. Also I did not settle medical with them till I was satisfide with the settlement.

ya and this... http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zjCu0ZBW25w

This is why I work on my one car.

hmm It should not be to different from the late 280z cars, I am not sure though. Does the xenon site have you FSM?

interesting.... the one on my car a 78 is metal spot welded to the body.... I do not like it as it harbors rust :ogre: Sorry I know this helps you out in no way.

Forget what the others say get a Z they are fun. Husband agree? HA! If it's you're car you keep it up. Find a Z fix it take good care of it and enjoy.

understood. That would simplify things a little. What would occur if the other magnet valve was bypassed meaning constant vacuum to the heat controls? or the vacuum tank for that matter. Is the vacuum tanks propose to maintain steady vacuum?

My 78 originally had AC, but the pump no longer functions, and I have a ton of vacuum hoses that need replacing. Is there a way to simplify the system, can I remove or bypass the two magnet valves or eliminate the fast idle actuator ect.

No love here.......... Anyhow I dropped the transmission this weekend and learned that I did not need a new clutch at all :stupid::stupid::stupid: old one had little wear everything looked good I just needed to bleed the slave cylinder. Well I put a new clutch in in any case and drove the car for the first time since starting bodywork spring of last year, yippy skippy I love my Z! (drained and replaced the fluid with red line 90, it shifts smooth as sh!t out a ducks arse).

The front turn signal needs some work. I like the color.

congratulations on the "new" Z shrill noise: check belts ect. while in park pop the hood and listen close for the location, do you have AC? oil pressure: others correct me but I believe this could be normal that the gauge moves upwards as RPM's are increased while driving heat: are you referring to the side vents? not shure if heat is diverted there at all. water leak: I had this problem on my 78 280, problem was from shot door weather seals, both the main door seals and the little funky shaped one located on the upper forward area of the door, it looked like it could have come from under or forward of the dash but it was just the weather seals, leak caused a puddle in the foot area of the passenger side. thump: sounds like worn struts, having the car shift a little after hitting bumps on the road may just be the way these little cars handle

It my understanding that if you sand a metallic paint job with no clear you will ruin it. If it is a nice smooth finish let it cure for a week or two then use wax. I could be wrong considering you used lacquer.

I am looking at a spare hinge right now, it has factory primer on the back sides, looks like it was sprayed with color at the factory installed on the car with the hatch off (this is from a 77 one coat of primer one coat of paint 510 blue).

what Arne said. That is the way my car is (280)

painted

Started the process of dropping the transmission in order to replace the clutch and the first thing I found out of the ordinary was the shift lever had no bushings at all. After a search on the forum, I found the brass bushing trick it worked great! I put the shifter back in and it shifts like new!!