grantf

This is the last of three, My favorite part is where he uses the dental floss technique. All three videos demonstrate exactly how not to do body work, he uses iron oxide primer and galvanized sheet metal not to mention bondo directly over bare metal.

Oh ya! but I need to find a dust buster to clean up

ok I got a TON! of info from this video. I will do all of my body work this way! http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VK89Q9BnF2Q&NR=1

I will not be using the "style lines" from the tabco panel as this area is not rusted on my car only the bottom 3 inches, I will trim the tabco panels and only use the lower portion, I am sure I can get them to fit just fine and don't mind a little hammer work, I most likely will order other repare panels from tabco, I will say that it did take some time for them to arrive but they said it would be about three weeks and I got them in about two.

darn I need to replace rust in the lower rear also, now what?

Goodies came in the mail today from tabco. body work will start soon. I am not really impressed with the quality of the panels, soft details, some small dings and they need trimming. I think I will only use the lower portion and I will need to grind out the little notch at the very bottom, but I think they will work out nicely with some finesse and a little hammer work.

try checking the fuel pressure. Also go over the whole engine and look for worn rubber like the vacume lines and the hose leaving the air flow meter. this is just the easy things that should be done anyhow for what it's worth.

very cool thanks for posting this.

hmmm I am suspect, perhaps this is best suited for my motorcycle.

Thanks for all of the great info. I will most likely use epoxy primer as a spot primer as I progress, Has anyone used Wesco as a supplier?

those pins and the little straws that come with WD-40

so I am going to start rust removal on my 280 soon so far I have a replacement hatch and tabco doglegs are on the way, I still need to get some other repair panels including the hatch deck. Anyhow I plan on spot priming the repairs as I go. so my question is what paint/primer brand have any of you used and where in seattle would I find a paint supplier, I haven't painted a car in about 20 years (I'm getting old wow!).

interesting, where does it attach?

my best resource fixing wiring has been the FSM download it: http://www.xenons30.com/

seems you have the same "clunk problem I do" search for "clunk" you will find much info as I have.

I have a 78 280z, look up my older posts there are pictures of it. I will updat my profile. here again is a pic of my "damper plate"

Wow! I have those seemingly useless blocks bolted on my car also but I have nver seen them welded together or 4 plus stacked and welded, makes me think someone was trying to eliminate a common problem the wrong way. but what do I know?

ditto

sorry about the silly thread but the mor eI drive it the harder it is to switch back to my other car.

yes please do blog, thanks in advance

I love my Z!

seafoam in the gas tank, new in line fuel filter after the gas tank and replaced the fuel inlet that the P.O. mangled (for reasons I can not fathom).:stupid: P.S. and I drove it, it's getting really hard to drive my corolla day to day even though I trust it more.

Let us know how the glass install go's! with pics if possible I will be doing this in the near future. (oh and mine will go back to it's original color, yellow!)

I got a set also for my 78 the stitching came vetical, not an exact reproduction but they fit nice and looked right after I installed them.

looks like interior door panel was shortened to hind tears. And ya the half cap is a dead givaway nice car though for maybe 2,700.